Family Planning or Ethnic Cleansing in Peru?

In the 90s, hundreds of thousands of impoverished and often Indigenous Peruvian women were forcibly sterilized. Now, they seek justice.

Quechua Women and Children. Josh Walczak. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

In December of 2023, a fight that has spanned decades was dealt two major blows when former Peruvian President Alberto Fujimori was released from prison on the same day that Peru’s Supreme Court annulled an investigation into state-sponsored sterilizations. Fujimori, who oversaw the sterilization program during his presidency, had been serving time in prison after being found guilty of crimes against humanity by Interpol. Peru’s Constitutional Court authorized his release on humanitarian and health grounds less than two years after the Inter-American Court of Human Rights had overruled his pardon in 2022. Elected in 1990 during a period of great economic and political unrest in the country, Fujimori presided over an administration fraught with corruption, controversy, and human rights abuses. Most notoriously, he oversaw the Barrios Altos Massacre, for which he was charged and sentenced. 

Although their cases are the most widely publicized, political dissidents were not Fujimori’s only victims. After his re-election in 1995, the President introduced the National Reproductive Health and Family Planning Program (also known as the National Population Program) to address issues of poverty, economic instability and overpopulation. Fujimori presented the program as a feminist undertaking that would assure the reproductive rights of Peruvian women. Prior to the implementation of the program in 1996, women could only be approved for sterilization if they met a number of prerequisites, such as age or health risk factors. The National Population Program did away with the majority of those prerequisites. As a result, 272,028 women were sterilized by the government. Many of those women, however, have since come forward to say that they were subjected to the procedure against their will. 

In what has been called a genocide or ethnic cleansing, Fujimori’s administration mainly targeted women from impoverished backgrounds for sterilization, many of whom were members of Peru’s Indigenous communities. The sterilization program utilized policies developed by the Peruvian military in their Plan Verde, a military operation initially conceived as part of a coup against Fujimori’s predecessor. In one volume titled "Driving Peru into the 21st Century," the plan emphasized the convenience of sterilizing “culturally backward and economically impoverished groups.” Fujimori’s government employed unethical practices to manipulate and downright coerce women into undergoing the sterilization procedure, including by luring women to clinics under false pretenses, locking women inside the clinics, refusing essential healthcare unless they consented to the procedure, and holding the women down and injecting them with anesthesia. Doctors employed abusive language, accusing women with large families of acting like animals and of being useless. Even women who were already using other birth control methods, such as a Copper IUD, were subjected to sterilization. Many Indigenous women spoke Quechua rather than Spanish as a first language and did not understand what they were agreeing to, raising issues of informed consent.

“The Quipu Project,” developed in collaboration with MIT, is an online, interactive documentary that seeks to record and share the stories of women who were forcibly sterilized. Testimonies from Peruvian women document the suffering inflicted by the National Population Program. Many women were promised support and treatment during the recovery stage, only to be sent home immediately after the procedure, swollen, covered in rashes, with a variety of lasting medical issues. Some women, such as Celia Edith Ramos Durand, passed away from medical complications following the procedure. One woman from San Juan described the impact the operation has had on her life, saying “I don’t know if I will ever get better. I don’t believe I will ever heal … My whole body hurts. We are all in pain. Even my vagina hurts.” 

Rather than serving as a remedy to economic woes, the program National Population Program has devastated vulnerable impoverished and Indigenous communities. “Ever since I was sterilized, I haven’t been able to work as before,” one woman confessed to the Quipu hotline. “We want justice,” another says, “We have been suffering for so many years. There’s not even a doctor to check our health.”

Peru’s Supreme Court decided to annul the investigation into government-sponsored forced sterilization in December following a lawsuit filed by Fujimori’s Minister of Health, Alejandro Aguinaga, citing the statute of limitations as well as lack of evidence. This is not the first time the investigation has been impeded. For decades, the fight has been an uphill battle, as the investigation has been opened, closed and reopened many times. In 1999, various human rights groups collaborated to bring the case of Mamerita Mestanza Chavez, another woman who died following the sterilization procedure, before the Inter-American Commission on Human Rights. In 2001, the Truth and Reconciliation Commission was established to investigate human rights abuses that occurred under Fujimori’s administration. Maria Isabel Cedano, a lawyer with the nonprofit organization DEMUS, is representing over one thousand plaintiffs before the IACHR. Unfortunately, none of these efforts have yet to yield results for the victims as the Peruvian government continues to dismiss cases and throw up legal roadblocks in an incredibly complex case that encompasses issues surrounding the definitions of consent, sexual violence and genocide. It is now up to the Attorney General’s office to demonstrate that the crimes committed represent an extreme violation of human rights in order to negate the statute of limitations. 

TO GET INVOLVED

Quechua Benefit: Quechua Benefit is a nonprofit organization that aims to empower Quechua people in Peru’s highlands. It provides education, economic support and medical services.

DEMUS: DEMUS is a Peruvian Feminist Organization that focuses on protecting women’s sexual and reproductive rights. One of their campaigns, “Somos 2074 Y Muchas Mas,” seeks reparations for the victims of Peru’s forced sterilization program. 

Rebecca Pitcairn

Rebecca studies Italian Language and Literature, Classical Civilizations, and English Writing at the University of Pittsburgh. She hopes to one day attain a PhD in Classical Archeology. She is passionate about feminism and climate justice. She enjoys reading, playing the lyre, and longboarding in her free time. 

A Literary Pilgrimage: Colombia with Gabriel García Márquez

A travel itinerary for bibliophiles, Gabo fans and adventurers alike

Author Gabriel García Márquez, affectionately nicknamed “Gabo,” put his native country of Colombia on the literary map through his novels and short stories. 

Critics lauded his novel Love in The Time of Cholera, a tale of romance between social classes, as one of the best love stories of the 20th century. His work One Hundred Years of Solitude, a multi-generational novel about a family from an isolated town, is considered the Bible of magical realism, a genre that describes fantastical events in an otherwise realistic tone. 

Adventurous travelers and bibliophiles alike can experience the magic and romance of Colombia through García Marquez's eyes with an itinerary based on his life and literature.

1. Cartagena

In an interview with actor and filmmaker Salvatore Basile, García Márquez said, “I would say that I completed my education as a writer in Cartagena.” With that in mind, Caribbean-flanked Cartagena is the ideal place to begin your Gabo-inspired tour of Colombia. 

García Márquez lived in Cartagena for a year as a young man and kept a winter house in the city as an older man. He sets much of Love in The Time of Cholera in Cartagena. During his time in Cartagena, he was known for lingering on the plazas, waiting for something interesting to happen. 

To experience the city from Gabo’s perspective, people watch at the lush, lively Plaza Fernandez de Madrid and historic, central Plaza Bolivar. Grab a drink at El Coro, the upscale cocktail bar in The Sofitel Santa Clara hotel, which García Márquez frequented. Visit Gabo’s marble-clad final resting place at La Merced monastery on the University of Cartagena’s campus. 

The orange-tinted cityscape of Barranquilla. Fernando Orozco. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

2. Barranquilla

Following Gabo’s footsteps, travel from Cartagena to Barranquilla, a seaport known as Colombia’s “Golden Gate" because here the Caribbean meets the country’s major Magdalena River. Gabo lived here in the 1950s while he worked as a journalist.

While living in Barranquilla, García Márquez was a part of the Barranquilla Group, a collection of writers, journalists and philosophers who met Barranquilla in the mid-twentieth century. In addition to García Márquez, notable members include Álvaro Cepeda Samudio, Germán Vargas and Alfonso Fuenmayor. Allegedly, Gabo’s relationship with these men inspired the characters of the “four friends of Macondo” in One Hundred Years of Solitude.

Connect with Gabo and his Barranquilla Group friends at La Cueva, a bar where the Barranquilla Group of writers and journalists met. It continues to serve as a hub of cultural activity, serving traditional food like Butifarra ceviche and Cashew rice, as well as supporting Colombian literary magazines. Tour the peach-colored church, Iglesia Nuestra Senora del Perpetuo Socorro, where Gabo married his wife Mercedes Barcha.

3. Aracataca

After connecting with García Márquez’s early days as a writer in Barranquilla and Cartagena, go back to where it all began in Aracataca: Gabo’s steamy, sleepy and tropical hometown. Gabo’s success put Aracataca on the map, rejuvenating the town as small groups of literary tourists trickled in to see where a genius grew up. You can meander through the white house and its verdant garden where García Márquez lived until he was eight, Casa Museo Gabriel García Márquez. 

In addition to being the locale of Gabo’s childhood, Aracataca inspired Macondo, the setting for One Hundred Years of Solitude. Stop for a photo opportunity in front of Aracataca’s bright, multicolored welcome sign, which includes an equally vivid Macando welcome sign in smaller letters.

4. Bogota

Conclude your tour of Gabo’s Colombia in mountainous Bogota. While not Gabo’s favorite city in Colombia, he called it “a remote, lugubrious city where an insomniac rain had been falling since the beginning of the sixteenth century” in his autobiography—it played a crucial role in his education. 

García Márquez attended secondary school and earned a law degree in Bogota. He published his work in the city’s newspaper El Espectador. He also lived here temporarily with his wife later in his life, in the colonial neighborhood La Candelaria.

Learn more about his work and life at the Centro Cultural Gabriel García Márquez, a museum and hub of artistic activity in a circular building with its roof offering views of Bogota’s mountains and cityscape. Sip a coffee at Cafe Pasaje, an old-school coffee shop where Gabo allegedly had his java each day when he was a young journalist.

Annie O’Brien

Annie is a third-year student at George Washington University studying English, Creative Writing, and History. From Philadelphia, she is an avid reader, pop-culture enthusiast, and traveler. She’s always eager to talk about her adventures abroad and domestically, whether it's telling about the time she hitch-hiked in Bavaria or offering recommendations for the best bookstores in Key West. She hopes to become a published author one day. Enjoy more of her writing on her Substack.

Chile’s Forest Fires: A Glimpse Through the Smoke

Wildfires are engulfing Chile, claiming the lives of about 130 people so far and sparking questions about potential causes and solutions. 

A 2014 forest fire in the Valparaíso region of Chile. Gabriela. CC BY-NC 2.0

As of February 9, 2024, nearly 5,000 people have been affected by what appear to be Chile’s deadliest forest fires on record. These devastating waves of flame follow the planet's hottest year and hottest January to date. Chile is not the only South American country to face an inferno following a scorching January, with forest fires reported in Colombia and Argentina as well.

Fires and climate change are in a feedback loop, amplifying each other. Consequences of climate change, including higher temperatures and heat waves, contribute to drier conditions and longer fire seasons. The fires create areas of dead, dry vegetation at greater risk of future fires, while the smoke from the fires pumps carbon dioxide to the atmosphere, further warming the planet. 

As the planet continues to warm, natural phenomena such as El Nino are intensified, resulting in hotter heat waves accompanied by dry spells, particularly affecting countries in northern South America such as Colombia and Venezuela. As recorded in 2018, about 21% of Chile is forest. The nation's tree cover, paired with its long dry season and heat waves, has proved to be a deadly combination. Forest fires in Chile have contributed to a range of destructive consequences throughout the years, including the loss of lives and biodiversity. 

Chile’s government has made strides to address climate change as a member of 20 international environmental agreements. Chile’s Forestry Service (CONAF) collaborates with the private forestry sector to implement preventative measures. In 2021, former Chilean President Sebastián Piñera presented the National Forest Fire Protection Plan. This plan allocated necessary resources to fire prevention and management, including firefighters, vehicles and technologies to predict and monitor fires. Despite these efforts, forest fires have continued in the country.

Scholars have identified that preventative measures are necessary in addressing forest fires. For example, controlled burns have been used by Indigenous People in North America for millenniums. Controlled burns are meticulously planned fires intentionally set to improve the health of a forest and reduce the risk of large-scale forest fires by decreasing the presence of dry vegetation. Other innovative measures to prevent forest fires include a gel-like fire retardant developed by researchers at Stanford University and technologies that can predict wildfires like Chile’s “Red Button” program.

Despite the issue of wildfires being amplified by climate change, about 99% of forest fires in Chile are caused by people, which is why education is another critical preventative measure. Tactics people can employ to prevent forest fires include taking steps to avoid creating sparks or fire when the area is hot, dry and windy and to refrain from driving over dry vegetation, as vehicle exhaust can reach temperatures over 1,000 degrees Fahrenheit.

Currently, the Chilean government is working tirelessly to combat the ongoing forest fires. For those looking to support these efforts, nonprofits like GlobalGiving provide platforms to donate to those affected, and social media offers a way for everyone to raise awareness.

Madison Paulus

Madison is a student at George Washington University studying international affairs, journalism, mass communication, and Arabic. Born and raised in Seattle, Washington, Madison grew up in a creative, open-minded environment. With passions for human rights and social justice, Madison uses her writing skills to educate and advocate. In the future, Madison hopes to pursue a career in science communication or travel journalism.

Unraveling the Mysteries of Rapa Nui (Easter Island)

Uncover Rapa Nui's mysteries, sustainable allure, and colossal moai on Easter Island.

Some of Rapa Nui’s stone statues (moai) watch as the sun sets behind the island. Antonio Sánchez. Unsplash.

Rapa Nui is a remote Polynesian island located 2,200 miles off the coast of Chile that spans only 63 square miles. The island is also known as Easter Island, a name that comes from Dutch explorers who arrived there on Easter Sunday in 1722. Rapa Nui gets its distinct triangular shape from the lava beds of three extinct volcanoes and is home to just a few thousand permanent residents. Despite this small population, the island has managed to land itself on many travelers’ must-see destination lists. The island is home to hundreds of imperious humanoid statues whose mysterious past have captured the attention of more than 100,000 visitors a year.

Travel Highlights

Like many other island destinations, Rapa Nui has beaches to enjoy in addition to a broad range of places to spend the night. Given the island’s many environmental concerns such as rock erosion and rising sea levels, there has been considerable focus on working toward a sustainable tourist industry. As such, Rapa Nui has several ecolodges that are popular with travelers. There is an abundance of fresh seafood, places to snorkel and opportunities to hike (Rapa Nui is a UNESCO-designated national park, making up 42% of the island). While walking around, visitors may be able to spot some of the wild horses that roam freely across the island; there are remarkably few indigenous plants, however, with only 31 wild flowering plants. The island’s three extinct volcanoes (Rano Kau, Poike, and Terevaka) also offer a chance for a unique exploration experience. 

The biggest draw of Rapa Nui is its moai. Most understand these statues as being representations of the ancestors of the Polynesian islanders who discovered the island over 1,000 years ago. Some moai have pukao, which are red ornaments that rest on some statues’ heads, and some moai sit on platforms. An ahu, where a number of these platforms can be found, was the traditional center for ceremonies on Rapa Nui. For visitors, the two most popular locations to see moai are at the Rano Raraku quarry and at the Ahu Tongariki. Although the average height of moai is 13 feet, these impressive sculptures can get as large as 80 tons and 33 feet tall. Archaeologists have determined that moai were originally made of basalt, trachyte and red scoria, but eventually moved to volcanic rock. The method of transportation for these especially large moai has sparked numerous theories and debates, with no plausible way for the statues to be moved from their place of creation to their final resting places with the resources available at the time. 

A close-up photo of a giant moai set against the Rapa Nui hillside. Thomas Griggs. Unsplash.

The Mysteries of the Island

Nearly every part of Rapa Nui’s early history has been met with some dispute; even the date of the Polynesians’ arrival has major discrepancies. One archaeological dig determined that humans first made contact with the island around 1200 A.D. This date is contested, however, with others believing that Polynesians found the island as much as 400 years earlier. The inconsistencies in archaeological data and lack of concrete evidence has led to numerous excavations being run and an abundance of people hypothesizing about the island, especially in regards to the Rapa Nui people’s process of moving the moai and how the population declined so quickly. Most of the speculation is about the time before the Dutch first arrived on the island in 1722. While there are nuances to each historian’s hypothesis, there are a few major trends. There are those who believe that the Indigenous Rapa Nui were victims of circumstance and those who believe they were inadvertently the main cause of their own suffering. While the exact truth of the early Rapa Nui history remains unknown, here are some common beliefs: 

For those who believe the Rapa Nui people were primarily victims of misfortune, there are mentions of a relatively sizable amount of wood being cut down, mostly to provide for the people and to transport the moai. Once the statues were in place, evidence suggests that additional changes were made in order to ensure they stayed upright. The complete destruction of large trees and foliage, however, can be mostly credited to invasive rats that feasted on the palm trees which once populated the island. As a dwindling Indigenous population continued to live on Rapa Nui, they were eventually confronted by a series of hostile visitors, all of whom contributed to their population becoming decimated. In 1722, the European explorers, beginning with a daylong visit from the Dutch, brought disease and strife to the Rapa Nui people. The continued arrival of European traders, explorers and other foreigners over the following decades contributed to the decline of the Rapa Nui people. 

Others adhere more to a story of ecocide. In order to move the moai, the Rapa Nui cut an excessive amount of trees down. Given that there is a considerable amount of charcoal in the island’s soil, some archaeologists have considered the possibility that the Rapa Nui people set fire to grass once they ran out of wood, another potential contributor to ecocide. Without the trees to anchor the soil, the fertile ground got washed away, ultimately leading to a shortage of crops and eventual starvation. Some have speculated about cannibalism, but this theory is less popular. In terms of outside contact, the Rapa Nui people may have had a war with another Polynesian group in 1680 which would have contributed to a population decline as well. Foreign arrivals then brought an additional, crippling blow of disease and violence.

Rapa Nui, from 1722-Present

Once Rapa Nui became known to foreigners, it suffered a similar fate to many other islands in Polynesia. At times, the Europeans destroyed property and forced many natives off of Rapa Nui. There were other hostile visitors as well. Peruvian slave traders came to the island during the 19th century and took many Rapa Nui people away as slaves. Despite the native Rapa Nui population having about 3,000 people in 1860, by 1877 so many people had been taken or killed that their numbers dwindled to just 111 individuals. 

Slavers and traders were not the only ones to come to Rapa Nui, and this heightened attention on the island eventually resulted in its current legal connection to Chile. Numerous missionaries came to the island as early as 1864, resulting in a shift toward Christianity for those who remained on Rapa Nui. This change made the island more welcoming in the eyes of many people from the mainland and prompted more interest from outsiders. The island’s annexation to Chile occurred in 1888, but the island was mostly left alone until 1903 when it was leased as a sheep farm for 50 years. During that time, the Chilean government applied an increasing amount of pressure on the Indigenous population such as confining them to one part of the island, Hanga Roa, and considering them the property of the state. By 1965 a governor was appointed to the island by the Chilean government, thus allowing the Rapa Nui people to become Chilean citizens. 

In 2010, Rapa Nui’s Indigenous clans began a major push back against the Chilean government, citing many injustices from the past decades including poverty, forced ghettos and land ownership discrepancies. This resulted in extensive discussion, violence and standoffs between the Chilean government and Rapa Nui’s Indigenous clans. In August of 2010, several Rapa Nui natives occupied a resort on the island, saying that their land had been taken unwittingly from them and was becoming developed by the Chilean government. Chilean police then forcibly evicted them from the premises, an action which received backlash from the Indigenous community. While the relationship between the two groups has since de-escalated, the situation is not truly resolved.

Seeing the Mystery for Yourself

Visiting Rapa Nui can be done by booking a 5 ½-hour flight out of Santiago, Chile. About half of the island’s current population considers themselves to be native Rapa Nui, and although some of the original Polynesian language is still present, residents speak Spanish predominantly. Rapa Nui is an island steeped in mystery and isolation, making it an intriguing and far-off destination for travelers looking to learn about Polynesian culture, explore volcanoes, and above all, meet the 887 moai that are scattered across the island. 

Phoebe Jacoby

Phoebe is a Media Studies major and Studio Art minor at Vassar College who believes in the importance of sharing stories with others. Phoebe likes to spend her free time reading, drawing, and writing letters. She hopes to continue developing her skills as a writer and create work that will have a positive outward effect.

The Atacama Desert’s Fashion Graveyard

Once a vast, uninterrupted plateau, Chile’s Atacama Desert is now a technicolor testament to overconsumption.

The Atacama Fashion Graveyard. Antonio Cosio. CC BY-NC.

A cursor hovering over the checkout of an Amazon cart; an unassuming paper bag carrying the new, trendiest cut of jeans from Forever 21; a Gmail notification that indicates a menagerie of Shein clothing has been shipped. These testaments to overconsumption in daily life may produce a quick, subtle pang of guilt. But, ultimately, this engagement with the world of fast fashion tends to be “out of sight, out of mind.” After all, once the clothing is donated or discarded most people assume it will end up in a landfill, neatly tucked away, never to be seen again. With no visual proof of the waste guilt subsides, and the cycle of overconsumption repeats. 

The cyclical and rampant nature of overconsumption, however, has real, tangible implications — implications that can be seen and felt by citizens of Iquique, a Northern Chilean city in the Atacama Desert. An average of 39,000 tons of fast fashion waste are dumped in Iquique per year, in addition to the approximately 60,000 tons of clothing imported into Chile annually. Roughly 40,000 square miles, the Atacama desert was once a pristine yet arid plateau; a prime sight for stargazing under a clear, open sky. The desert landscape, covered in salt flats, valleys and rocky topography, averages about 40,000 visitors per year but has since been contaminated. 

The clothing pile has grown to such an extent that it can be seen from space using satellite technology. But, before the magnitude of clothing became noticeable from an extraterrestrial viewpoint, people residing in Alto Hospicio, a municipality next to Iquique, watched as the unbridled clothing dumping grew out of hand. Clothes manufactured in China and Bangladesh that fail to sell in U.S. stores are brought in through the port of Iquique and subsequently dumped into the Atacama. The dumping site raised concerns among citizens of Alto Hospicio as early as 2012, but their unease was ignored.

The Atacama Desert. NASA. CC0.

Disheartened, the people of Alto Hospicio claimed to have experienced negligence by local and national government officials firsthand. For years, the waste grew despite continual pleas for action. Although in 2021 the former Minister for the Environment of Chile, Javier Naranjo Solano, expressed his worries about the vast quantities of textiles being imported into Chile and proposed remediation, some Chilean environmental engineers and scientists feared that the the laws he proposed, entangled with bureaucratic processes,  would be far too slow-moving considering the urgent, rapid growth of the clothing pile. Other citizens, however, have faith that Chile’s newly appointed Minister for the Environment, Maisa Rojas, will be able to translate eco-anxiety into concrete action.

Even under new leadership, however, the already massive pile of clothing is a nearly indestructible hazard. Much of the poor-quality fast fashion clothing dumped in Atacama is polyester, a material made out of the non-renewable resource petroleum. The open-air clothing pile secretes pollutants into the air; they seep into the ground. Thus, petroleum and other harmful materials can contaminate any remaining groundwater in aquifers under the desert. As potent as plastic and as enduring as steel, the clothing dumped in Atacama will take 200 years to biograde.

The Atacama Desert is often considered the driest climate on the planet, with annual rainfall averaging at only .03 inches. Atacama’s arid climate dangerously aids the spread of intentionally ignited fires. In order to curtail the amount of clothing discarded, fires are illegally and mysteriously started. These fires only serve as a further pollutant on top of the fabric already decomposing in the hot, arid environment. 

Although many merchants reside in Iquique,  one of South America’s largest duty free ports, many in the municipality of Alto Hospicio live in poverty — 25% of residents in Alto Hospicio specifically live in extreme poverty and, with many having poor access to quality housing. Although many residents travel to the Atacama fashion graveyard to salvage and sell discarded clothing, their proximity to the dump site has sinister implications: the negligence of the Atacama fashion desert and subsequent pollution acutely harms low-income communities in Northern Chile. Fast fashion waste, both burnt and decomposing, creates fumes that are linked to respiratory diseases, chronic illnesses, reproductive issues and even types of cancer.

The Port of Iquique. Diego Delso. CC-BY-SA 4.0.

Although there are efforts to repurpose the dumped clothing, with companies such as Ecofibra Chile taking the fabric and transforming it into thermal insulation panels, only one method of curtailing fast-fashion waste can truly have an impact: curbing our own overconsumption. Instead of purchasing that cost-effective Amazon fashion find, or the trendy new jeans from Forever 21, look into your own closet. Rediscover a dress that has been tucked away in the depths of your dresser. Organize a clothes swap with friends. Borrow your Aunt’s blouse or your Grandfather’s wool sweater. Rather than falling victim to trend cycles, explore what has been cherished, saved and passed down.

Carina Cole

Carina Cole is a Media Studies student with a Correlate in Creative Writing at Vassar College. She is an avid journalist and occasional flash fiction writer. Her passion for writing overlaps with environmentalism, feminism, social justice, and a desire to travel beyond the United States. When she’s not writing, you can find her meticulously curating playlists or picking up a paintbrush. 

Manaus: Capital of the Amazon

My visit to the Amazon’s largest and most contradictory city.

City of Manaus. Dennis Jarvis. CC BY-SA 2.0

My first guide in Manaus explained that when people think about a city in the middle of the Amazon, they expect the city to be wild and see snakes crossing the streets. The reality of the Amazon’s largest city, located in Brazil’s Amazonas Province, is completely different. This past May I spent one of the most memorable weeks of my life in this province. During that time, I did go deep into the Amazon, where I saw a tree Boa, a large snake. But, I also visited a beautiful pink opera house, a fish market, antique bookstores, fancy restaurants, the Presidente Figueiredo Waterfalls, and even the Ponta Negra Beach, which was lined with tall buildings that seemed to be hotels, just like any beach town you’d find in the US.

Me, in the Amazon outside of Manaus. Jeremy Giles

This city of over two million people borders both the Rio Negro and the Amazon River, and is the access point to reach many communities deeper within the Amazon jungle. It is also one of Brazil’s largest industrial centers, including businesses that have nothing to do with the rainforest it borders. In my experience, Manaus is a city unlike any other, and thrives off defying expectations.

The History

Manáos, Eduardo Ribeiro Avenue in 1909. National Library of Brazil, public domain.

Manaus was originally founded in 1669 as a Portuguese fort. By 1832, the fort grew into a town, and received its modern name, Manaus, meaning “mother of the gods,” from the indigenous Manaós tribe. Only 16 years later Manaus expanded into a city. Two years after that, it was officially declared the capital of the Amazonas province.

After the invention of cars in the late 1800s, Manaus became the center of the rubber boom due to the almost complete South American monopoly of rubber trees, which are native to the Amazon basin. This completely changed the city, as it became viewed as the gateway to the Amazon, and became home to many incredibly wealthy rubber barons. These ridiculously rich families had more money than things to spend it on, and began to focus on architecture, shipping materials all the way from Europe to build huge beautiful masterpieces, many of which still exist today.

By the early to mid 1900s the rubber boom had almost completely left Brazil, being replaced by rubber trees brought to Southeast Asia. This spelled financial ruin for Manaus, which sank into desperation. This poverty continued until 1967, when Manaus was named a duty free zone, making it cheap for companies to move there. This allowed Manaus to grow into the economic hub it is today, currently being a Brazilian access point for over 600 global companies.

The Amazonas Theatre

Amazon Theatre in Manaus. Rafael Zart. CC BY 2.0.

The Amazonas Theatre opened in 1897, carrying with it Manaus’ nickname “the Paris of the Tropics.” The opera theater was built almost entirely using materials imported from Europe, topped with a beautiful dome of Brazil’s flag.

At the time of its opening, the opera theater was in many ways a sign of all that was wrong in Manaus. It was built for Manaus’ uber-wealthy, using the money they made by exploiting the local population to harvest the rubber they sold abroad. Moreover, even the few who could enter the opera house valued the status it brought them more than the opera itself. The most expensive seats in the opera house were those that were the most visible to the public. Ironically, these spots actually had the worst view of the stage itself. 

Today, the opera house, which remains a top opera house in the world, has come a long way from its imperialistic origins. Most performances at the theater are free, and those that aren’t are very affordable. The performances feature both local artists and acts from around the world. Moreover, to encourage all to join, a large screen is often set up in the plaza in front of the opera house, allowing as many people to see the performances as possible.

The Ports

Manaus market from the river. archer10 (Dennis). CC BY-SA 2.0.

In many ways, the center of Manaus is its ports. Manaus is bordered by both the Rio Negro and the Amazon River, allowing for a large number of ships and ferries, both for tourists and locals. These boats can take you deeper into the Amazon or out of it entirely, allowing ocean freight ships to transport goods directly to Manaus.

In addition, much of Manaus’ culture and nature revolves around the ports. A little over a half hour by boat from Manaus’ ports is the meeting of the waters, a line where the Rio Negro meets the Amazon River. This line is clearly visible with the water looking different and being a clearly different temperature on either side of the line. 

On land, about a five minute walk from Manaus’ largest port is an amazing market “Mercado Municipal” that, every morning, is filled with different fresh fish, including some of the biggest fish in the world. My personal favorite of these huge fish is Tambaqui, a cousin of the Piranha and one of the most delicious meals I’ve ever had. The fish is so big that its ribs are visible and alone big enough for a meal. In fact, I’d go even further to say that, to me at least, the ribs are the best part.

Amazon Rainforest

The Amazon Rainforest, a few hours from Manaus. Jeremy Giles

While Manaus itself is a big city, much of the land around it is still forested and filled with natural wonders. If you go an hour or two downstream on the Rio Negro, you will be greeted by intensely green trees on both sides which, in the right conditions, are perfectly reflected by the black water below you. In the wet season this water will rise several meters, causing many of the trees to jut out of the water itself. Just to note, climate change has caused the water to rise more now than in the past, however, the water rising multiple meters is a natural phenomenon and one that actually helps the trees survive.

When you’re surrounded by the trees you may start to be greeted by animals almost immediately. Howler and spider monkeys can be seen leaping from tree to tree, sometimes carrying their babies, and boas can be found curled up on branches. The water itself is dotted with caiman and different kinds of fish. The lucky will get to see pink river dolphins breaching the water’s surface.

A waterfall at El Presidente Figueiredo. Jeremy Giles

There is plenty to see around Manaus and in Manaus on land as well. Most notably, about an hour and a half drive from Manaus are the Presidente Figueiredo waterfalls. These waterfalls are all stunning to look it, with fast moving water from the Rio Negro. However, they do vary in size. The first waterfall I was unable to approach because it was too big. The second one was small enough that I was able to climb behind it.

The Rio Negro, or Black River in English, gets its color from the decaying vegetation that falls into it. Beyond giving the river a wondrous dark hue, this decay causes the river to be relatively acidic. While it is perfectly okay for humans to swim in the water, the same cannot be said for mosquitoes, who almost completely avoid the river. This is amazing for Manaus, which borders the Rio Negro, as the city has relatively few mosquitos despite being in the middle of the Amazon.

The Technology Industry

President Lula visiting a motorcycle factory in Manaus. Brasil em Mapas Brazilmaps. CC BY 2.0

While much of Manaus’ economy does revolve around the Amazon, the tech industry is actually one of the city’s largest. Brazil’s largest research and development Institute, the Sidia Institute of Science and Technology, is based in Manaus. Moreover, Manaus is known for its extensive motorcycle industry, producing over 1.4 million motorcycles in 2022.

Manauara Shopping Center. Naldo Arruda. CC BY 2.0

I’ve spent the past few days trying to think of what, out of everything I saw, best represents Manaus. I believe I’ve found it, but, like everything else with the city, it’s not what you would expect. 

The Manauara Shopping mall is a huge and beautiful structure, with big glass windows lining the outside, seeming to connect the building to the world beyond its walls. It has more than 200 stores, which range from those selling wooden crafts and acai from the Amazon to big brands on national and international levels. The moment I remember most is when, after exploring the first three levels of the mall, my family decided to visit the basement food court. Going down the escalator, we saw the same glass windows from the front of the building, except this time, they were facing inwards. We walked towards a door under the hulking glass and through it outside into open space. I looked up and spiraling branches blanketed with green leaves towered above me, almost blocking my view of the night sky. I breathed in the air deeply, letting go of a tension I didn’t know I was holding. Looking back, in this moment, in a rainforest in the middle of a mall, I truly experienced Manaus most.

Jeremy Giles

Jeremy is a Writing Seminars and International Studies major at Johns Hopkins University. He is an avid writer and the Co-Founder of Writers’ Warehouse, Johns Hopkins’ first creative writing group. He is an advocate for Indigenous rights, and studies how Indigenous philosophies can be used to help prevent climate change. Using his writing, he hopes to bring attention to underrepresented voices in today’s world.

Finding Adventure in Ecuador

A country of volcanoes and valleys, Ecuador offers travelers innumerable ways to push their limits and get their hearts racing.

Swing Jumping in Baños, Ecuador. Courtesy of Jeremy Giles.

The above picture is of me jumping into a 100 meter drop from a bridge in Baños, a city bordering the Ecuadorian Amazon. It took me three tries to actually jump; the first two times I stood on the platform, I got scared and had to come down. I probably only ended up jumping because I saw two people go before me and not die. On the third try, I took a deep breath, knowing that if I didn’t jump then I never would, and leaped off. The adrenaline pumped furiously for one of the longest, most terrifying seconds of my life. Then, of course, the line pulled taut and swung me under the bridge, stopping my fall.

Canopy, Baños, Ecuador, Rinaldo Wurglitsch, CC BY 2.0

Baños, however, is more than just a city I jumped off a bridge in. It has the Andes in the West and the Amazon in the East, making it a beautiful space to see the transition between the two, home to both forests and mountains. Even more, it is the Ecuadorian hub for extreme sports. The entire town center is filled with restaurants and travel agencies, each of the latter offering what felt like hundreds of different extreme sports. Later, on the same day I bungee jumped, I went on a beautiful 6 part zipline system called the canopy, where they let you zipline upside down and even hold hands with another rider. I did it with my friend, but I imagine that if you went with a partner it would be quite romantic.

Paragliding in Ecuador, Jsan92, CC BY-SA 4.0

While Baños may be the center of extreme sports in Ecuador, it's hardly the only locale. During my first month in Ecuador I lived in Cumbaya, a suburb outside of the country’s capital Quito. One of the very first things I noticed was the steady stream of paragliders coming from a mountain behind my house. Almost every day over the next month, I’d see a few paragliders in the sky above me. Eventually I got so curious that my host dad walked me to the paragliders’ landing spot. There we learned two important things. First, while this location is good, it is also possible to paraglide on a mountain next to Quito, which is the prime location for the sport and on my bucket list of things to do when I return to Ecuador. Secondly, we saw on the ground below the paragliders a hopeful fiance-to-be had written a marriage proposal. We didn’t stay to see if the proposal was accepted, but I wish them the best of luck.

Chimborazo, Ecuador, André Hübner, CC BY-SA 3.0.

In Ecuador, a country smaller than Colorado, there are 47 volcanoes, 32 of which are on its mainland. The tallest volcano (and mountain) in Ecuador is Chimborazo, whose summit is a 6-9 hour climb, but provides such beautiful vistas as to make the trip well worth the effort. The peak of the volcano, due to the bulge of the Earth around the equator, is the farthest point from the center of the Earth on the planet’s surface. While Chimborazo was thought to be extinct, it has recently been found to be a still-active volcano. 

Cotopaxi from Iliniza, Jo Simon, CC BY 2.0.

With that said, there has never been a doubt the Cotopaxi volcano, Ecuador’s second-tallest mountain, is active. Cotopaxi has erupted at least 50 times in the last 300 years. It is perhaps the most popular climbing destination in Ecuador, and towers over Quito, making its amazing views easily accessible.

If you’re interested in these experiences, offers for them can readily be found both on-site and online. Bungee jumping and zip lining in Baños costs about $20-40 per person and the paragliding near my home in Cumbaya was approximately $60-75, although I imagine it would be a bit more in Quito itself. Mountain climbing depends on the mountain and your individual plans.

Jeremy Giles

Jeremy is a Writing Seminars and International Studies major at Johns Hopkins University. He is an avid writer and the Co-Founder of Writers’ Warehouse, Johns Hopkins’ first creative writing group. He is an advocate for Indigenous rights, and studies how Indigenous philosophies can be used to help prevent climate change. Using his writing, he hopes to bring attention to underrepresented voices in today’s world.

The Four Worlds of Ecuador

In a country smaller than Colorado, there are four distinct geographical regions from the coast to the Amazon, each representing its own culture.

Quito Sunset, szeke, CC BY-SA 2.0.

Per square mile, Ecuador is the most biodiverse country in the world. In the east lies the Amazon Rainforest, known in Ecuador as “el oriente,” or “the orient” in English. The Andes rise like a spine through the middle of the country , and are known in Ecuador as “la sierra.” It is here that Ecuador’s Capital Quito is located, making it the second highest capital in the world. Bordering the ocean is the country’s coast, known as “la costa,” home to Guayaquil, Ecuador’s largest city. Finally, about 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador is the biological treasure of the Galapagos Islands, home of the Galapagos Tortoises, the biggest tortoises in the world. 

I have spent the past 3 and a half months studying in Ecuador. During that time I visited three of the four major regions, and lived in both the Amazon and the Andes. Beyond the geographical differences, each region has its own cultures unique to itself. Based on my research and experiences, this article will discuss what makes each region special.

“La Sierra” - The Andes

Quito. Jeremy Giles

Quito, the capital of Ecuador and its most famous city, is located in the Andes at the center of not only Ecuador but also the world, positioned almost exactly on the Equator line, a fact that appeals to tourist so much that there are not one but two “centers of the world” in and around Quito. The “center of the world” is supposed to be the exact 0.0 line of Ecuador, so having two is very much not possible. Although only one of them is real, both are constantly crowded and attract plenty of visitors every year. In my opinion, the fake one, built up to the point it seems like its own little town, is actually nicer than the real site.

Fake Center of the Earth, Maros M r a z (Maros), CC BY-SA 3.0

If you drive away from Quito in almost any direction, you will run into a volcano. There are 17 volcanoes surrounding the city. Two of the most famous of the volcanoes, Pinchicha and Cotopaxi, are both very much active and occasionally release smoke. The volcanic mountains can be seen throughout most of Quito, creating beautiful vistas wherever you care to look. 

A picture from on top of the Basilica del Voto Nacional. Jeremy Giles

Within the city itself, the star is “el centro historico,” the historic and colonial center of Quito. Here the buildings are hundreds of years old, all built in a Spanish style in a wondrous variety of pastel colors, all on top of slanting roads curving with the mountains underneath it. This branch of the city is home to the Presidential Palace and many other beautiful government buildings and churches. My favorite of all is the Basilica de Voto Nacional, a huge building with two beautiful towers looming over the city, and unlike any other Church I’ve been to, you are actually able to climb up it, giving you spectacular views of the capital. Beyond this, if you look up at the Basilica from the ground, you can see that instead of Gargoyles lining it like a typical Basilica there are famous animals from all different parts of Ecuador.

Otavalo Market, Jeremy Giles

While Quito is by far the biggest city in La Sierra, it is not the region’s only attraction. About a two hour drive from Quito is the city of Otavalo, one of the two largest Kichwa areas of Ecuador. The Kichwa peoples were part of the Inca Empire and have been in Ecuador for thousands of years. Today, their culture and language is still very much living. Otavalo is famous for its Kichwa market, where beautiful handmade blankets, sweaters, hammocks and more are created from incredibly soft alpaca wool. The prices are amazing; when I was last there I bought a beautiful alpaca wool blanket for only 20 dollars.

Cuenca, Ecuador, Bernard Gagnon, CC BY-SA 3.0 

While I never had the opportunity to visit it, maybe the most beautiful city in La Sierra is Ecuador’s third largest city, Cuenca. This andean city is known for its thriving culinary scene, often serving some of Ecuador’s best traditional dishes. It has an incredibly charming appeal and is home to the beautiful El Cajas National park. When I next return to Ecuador Cuenca is for sure one of the top destinations on my list.

“El Oriente” - The Amazon Rainforest

Meeting of the Rivers, Cuenca, Ecuador

To reiterate, Ecuador is known as the most biodiverse country in the world per square mile. The Ecuadorian Amazon is the center of that biodiversity. The Amazon in Ecuador has 300 different species of mammals, 350 of reptiles, 800 of fish, and 1,600 of birds. These species are some of the centerpoints of Amazonian culture in Ecuador. Per indigenous Kichwa beliefs, the Pachamama created the Earth, and the Amazon for its people. When shamans, traditional healers, die, they become a “boa” or “tigre,” general words in the Ecuadorian Amazon for a very large snake or a big cat. The latter is a false friend for English speakers; although “tigre” translates directly to “tiger,” there aren’t actually any tigers in the Amazon.

Mocahuas, David C. S., CC BY-SA 4.0

While visiting the Amazon I lived in the Pastaza province, the largest province in Ecuador, and an area almost entirely covered by the Rainforest. Somehow, Pastaza manages to be just as diverse culturally as it is biologically. In Pastaza alone, there are seven different independent Indigenous groups, each with its own separate language, culture, and customs. There are significant efforts in the region to make sure these languages survive, and in schools students learn both Spanish and their Indigenous language.

A street in Puyo, Ecuador, Jeremy Giles

For the month I was in Pastaza, I stayed in its capital Puyo, an incredibly diverse multi-ethnic city of about 40,000 people. There, I felt as welcomed as I’ve ever felt anywhere. Through the generosity of my host families I got to experience many of the special things about Puyo. Here, I will share with you one of my favorites: the food. The Amazon river provides the families of Puyo with an amazing abundance of fresh fish, particularly tilapia, at prices even cheaper than Ecuadorian norm. Once, my host family bought nine individual portion sized live tilapia for 12 dollars.

Maito, Iestrella, CC BY-SA 4.0

After buying the fish, the typical method of preparation is to make a dish called “Maito.” When cooking Maito the family will cut down a really big leaf. They will then put the fish in the leaf and wrap it up. They put this over the fire and let the fish cook. Then they will open the leaf and serve with fish, often accompanied with grilled plantains and a potato-like root vegetable called yucca that is native to the region. Traditionally, the family does not filet fish or remove the skin and eats everything but the bones. I did this while I was there and while it is often avoided in the west, I found the skin quite rich. 

“La Costa” - The Coast

An Aerial View of Guayaquil, JorgeAlejanDroo, CC BY-SA 4.0

It's impossible to talk about the Ecuadorian coast without discussing the biggest city in all of Ecuador, Guayaquil. While Guayaquil lacks the aesthetic beauty of Quito in the Andes, it is impressive in its own right. Quito is an old city that is sprawled over many many miles, with hardly any tall buildings. Because of this, Guayaquil, a city working hard to modernize, is the home to Ecuador’s tallest building. Along with this is “la perla” or “The Pearl,” which, during its opening in 2015, was the largest ferris wheel in South America. 

Ferris Wheel in Guayaquil, Sebastian Reategui, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Although the star of Guayaquil, and home to said ferris wheel, is “El Malecon 2000.” El Malecon 2000, named after the year it was opened, is a gorgeous 2.5 kilometer riverfront promenade. Located along the path are plenty of attractions, including a museum of anthropology, an Imax theater and a garden, adorned with its own koi ponds.

Malecon 2000, Guayaquil, Padaguan, CC BY-SA 3.0

It should be noted, however I was in Ecuador as part of a study abroad program. During the program, in our last month, we were allowed to select almost anywhere in Ecuador to conduct an independent study. The two places we were not allowed to study were Ecuador’s border with Colombia, and Guayaquil. Ecuador as a whole has a problem with theft and crime. During my time living in and around Quito and Puyo that was always manageable. If you take common sense precautions and are careful, generally speaking, you’ll be okay, just like in a large city in the United States. The same cannot always be said for Guayaquil, especially for foreigners, who may become more of a target because of their manner of speaking and the color of their skin. Guayaquil is a beautiful city that locals frequent often for its climate, culture, and the amazing beaches of Ecuador’s coast. Foreigners can visit too, but they must exercise a considerable amount of caution.

The Galapagos Islands

Galapagos Tortoise, Mike's Birds from Riverside, CA, US, CC BY-SA 2.0

The Galapagos Islands are famous for their finches, which Darwin used to prove the existence of evolution. These birds, ironically, while perhaps the most famous species of the islands, are also one of their least impressive, looking just like small sparrows. The Galapagos’ namesake species however, the Galapagos tortoise, is a different story. These gentle behemoths are the biggest tortoises in the world, and one of the few creatures on Earth with a longer lifespan than humans, frequently living over 120 years old. 

Sea Lions laying on a beach, Jeremy Giles

To add to the tortoises, the Galapagos has a slew of amazing native species, many of which can only be found on the islands. There are native penguins and flamingos, frigate birds with huge red pouches under their throats that can blow up like balloons and a bevy of sea lions loitering across the beaches. My personal favorite is the marine iguana, the only marine lizard species in the world and one that, while swimming, looks almost like a snake with legs.

Puerto Ayora Harbor, Santa Cruz Island, Galapagos, David Broad, CC BY 3.0

In addition to the animal species, the Galapagos also has a significant population of people. Four of the 13 major islands are home to around 30,000 permanent residents. While the islands are in the same region, each one has its own individual culture and way of seeing the world. These cultures, due to the interests of foreign countries in protecting the Galapagos, are often very diverse, creating a very interesting dining scene. The biggest town in the Galapagos is Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Islands, with a population of more than 10,000.

Jeremy Giles

Jeremy is a Writing Seminars and International Studies major at Johns Hopkins University. He is an avid writer and the Co-Founder of Writers’ Warehouse, Johns Hopkins’ first creative writing group. He is an advocate for Indigenous rights, and studies how Indigenous philosophies can be used to help prevent climate change. Using his writing, he hopes to bring attention to underrepresented voices in today’s world.

6 Must-See Islands off the Coast of Chile

Traverse the natural gems and explore the historical sites of Chile’s outre-mer.

Penguins off the coast of Chiloe Island. Mary Madigan. CC BY 2.0. 

One of the westernmost countries of South America, Chile has gained fame for its gorgeous mountains and fjords, its delicious street cuisine, the integral place futbol has in its people’s everyday life, and perhaps even its complex political history. The distinct cultural and travel experience the country offers does not apply only to its mainland, but also to the islands that surround it. In fact, Chile’s islands house some of the most individual and exclusive travel experiences and institutions: 

1. Isla Magdalena

Off the coast of Isla Magdalena. Iamblukas. CC BY 2.0.

Isla Magdalena’s lush landscapes are home to everything from the circa 120,000 Magellanic penguins characteristic of southern South America, the National Monument for Penguins that explores and explains the members of this colony, and a magnificent view of the Strait of Magellan discovered by Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan. The Isla Magdalena Lighthouse, another landmark, also rests on the island and contains many exhibitions that detail its history and traditions. Travel to Isla Magdalena by public ferry or private speedboat (for about 2 hours) after a fruitful day on the Chilean mainland; the island is 608 sq mi.

2. Robinson Crusoe Island 

A view of Robinson Crusoe Island’s mountains. Ashley Basil. CC BY 2.0.

Robinson Crusoe Island’s name comes from the titular Daniel Defoe protagonist and explorer who travels across the sea to a deserted island. Certainly, all visitors feel like explorers on Robinson Crusoe Island. Guests can snorkel or scuba dive along the island’s coral reefs, observe shipwrecks scattered across its coast, birdwatch, hike in the area’s luscious rainforests, visit ruins left from plundering pirates, and enjoy the local cuisine, especially the lobster.  You can even partake in day-long fishing trips to score fresh lobsters! A ~2 hour flight from Santiago or an hour-long water taxi journey drops guests off at this adventure-filled island; the island is 18.5 sq mi in area.

3. Chiloé Island

A view from Ancud on Chiloé Island. Ik T. CC BY 2.0.

Chiloé Island’s landscape defines it: the Chiloé National Park highlights much of this breath-taking landscape with green terrain, rivers, lakes, and stunning forests. For those further intrigued by the island’s natural beauty, horseback riding around the island quenches the explorer’s thirst. But this island is not only a place of natural beauty; history remains an important part of Chiloé Island culture. The churches of Chiloé, mostly built in the 17th century and showcasing Spanish colonial design, are monuments to the island’s rich history. The Ancud Regional Museum (Museo Regional de Ancud) also puts much of the island’s history, its mythology, and its indigenous residents under the spotlight. As with many other Chilean islands, water sports like kayaking and fishing also contribute to the visitor experience. A circa 30-minute ferry ride across the Canal de Chacao drops guests off on Chiloé; the island is 3,241 sq mi.

4. Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego

Snow capped mountains of Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego. James St. John. CC BY 2.0. 

South America’s largest island, Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego, is part of the Tierra del Fuego archipelago off the coast of the southernmost tip of South America. A ~2 hour ferry ride across the Strait of Magellan drops visitors off at this island first dubbed “Land of Smoke” by Ferdinand Magellan. Walk the footsteps of explorers like Ferdinand Magellan and Charles Darwin on Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego as you immerse yourself in the island’s spectacular flora, which includes many species of trees like the beech and conifer, and fauna the fauna of Parque Pinguino Rey (King Penguin Park) and the foxes, flamingos, and condors found all around the island’s mountains; the island is 18, 530 sq mi

5. Navarino 

A view of the Dientes de Navarino Mountains. Dimitry B. CC BY 2.0.

Navarino, another island that is far south of the Magellan Strait, is a worthwhile travel destination for outdoorsy adventurers. Hikers will enjoy walking among the island’s snow capped mountains and fishers can discover a multitude of rivers and even high-altitude lakes. One of the most beautiful routes for active visitors is the Dientes de Navarino (Teeth of Navarino) Trek. This somewhat frightening name refers to Navarino’s mountains through which many travelers enjoy hiking. The culturally inclined can visit Puerto Williams, the island’s only town and the past residence of indigenous Yaghan people. Puerto Williams’ museums offer insights on the isle’s Yaghan past and its weighty and resonant history. Access to Navarino is available by a 30-minute boat ride from the port of Ushuaia; the island is 35.7 sq mi.

6. Riesco Island 

A view of the Fitzroy Canal from Isla Riesco. Z_thomas. CC BY-SA 3.0.

Riesco Island’s must-see features range from Patagonian ranches to historical coal reserves. The bleating sounds ring across the island, while its cattle fields are still dominated by gauchos, or South American cowboys, and remain a sight to behold for those visitors who crave a distinctive cultural experience. The island, one of the largest islands in Chile and accessible from Patagonia through a 30-minute boat ride across the Fitzroy Canal, is also known for its coal reserves; in fact, coal mines such as the Invierno (winter) Mine, Magdalena, Elena, and Josefina are historical locations of note. Riesco sightseers should also watch out for glaciers lining Riesco’s coasts; the island is 1,970 sq mi.

Su Ertekin-Taner

Su Ertekin-Taner is a first year student at Columbia University majoring in creative writing. Her love for the power of words and her connection to her Turkish roots spills into her satire, flash fiction, and journalistic pieces among other genres. Su hopes to continue writing fearless journalism, untold stories, and prose inspired by her surroundings.

From Mento to Reggae: Jamaica's Vibrant Music Scene

Captivating melodies, profound stories, and deep cultural ties have woven a musical tapestry unique to the Caribbean nation. 

Reggae concert. Image by Yardie. 

In the early 1900s, Jamaican music underwent a transformative journey influenced by myriad cultural expressions. Rooted in the rich traditions of African folklore, Anansi stories of the eponymous trickster/spider god Anansi took center stage, captivating listeners with hypnotic chants to enchanting stories. Over time, these stories evolved into the rhythmic beats of digging signs sung by field workers, resonating with the experiences and unity of working-class Jamaicans. During the same period, ring tunes’ for kids and dancing tunes’ joyous melodies and communal spirit became an integral part of the music scene, encouraging lively community dances and bringing people together. Jamaica’s rhythmic interplay and narrative-driven art, the cultural influences of Anansi stories, digging sings and ring tunes played a pivotal role in shaping the evolving sounds of Jamaican music, laying the foundation for the genres that would continue to capture the people’s triumphs, struggles, and celebrations. The echoes of these musical styles reverberate from the early 1900s Jamaican music landscape, paving the way for the rhythmic revolutions of mento and ska and the profound social commentary of rocksteady and reggae from the 1940s-1960s.

Mento: A Time Capsule of Jamaican Life and Resilience 

A painting of mento drummers. Mento2011 Fallmouth Jamaica

Born from a fusion of rhythms brought to the West Indies by enslaved West Africans, European musical traditions, and the Indigenous sounds of Jamaica's Taino people, the late 1940s birthed a vibrant expression of everyday life: mento. Mento vividly captured the spirit of Jamaican communities, offering a window into their triumphs and challenges through lively melodies and infectious rhythms, played on instruments like the banjo, guitar, and maracas. It became a testament to the indomitable spirit of the Jamaican people, celebrating their traditions and cultural identity.

Mento’s most outstanding achievement was laying the foundation for future genres. Specifically, its rhythms and energy paved the way for the revolutionary beats of ska in the 1950s, while its resilience and vibrancy found their way into the iconic reggae anthems, symbolizing Jamaican identity worldwide. Through mento, the rich roots of Jamaican folk music intertwined with the heritage of diverse influences, deciding with finality that music is for the people. Today, mento continues to captivate audiences connecting them to the vibrant past of the island.

Fishbone playing in Los Angeles.  

Ska: A Joyful Revolution with a Powerful Beat

In the transformative 1950s, ska emerged as a genre that reflected the social and political upheaval of the time and became a catalyst for change. With its energetic tempo, infectious rhythms, and the unmistakable resonance of brass instruments, ska created a pulsating sound that swept a generation. Inspired by Jamaican mento and Trinidad and Tobago’s calypso, ska was a jubilant call to unity, a musical expression of the collective yearning for a better world.

As the vibrant ska beats enveloped the airwaves and dancehalls, it carried a profound message. Through its lyrics, ska shed light on the harsh realities of poverty, inequality, and discrimination that plagued Jamaican society. It served as a powerful voice, amplifying the concerns and struggles of the marginalized and disenfranchised. Yet, amidst the social challenges, ska embodied a spirit of resilience, hope, and determination. It became a unifying force, inspiring people to unite, rise above adversity, and strive for a more inclusive and equitable future.

 Crowd at a live music event. Image by Yardie.

Rocksteady: The Soulful Bridge to Reggae 

Between the exciting ska era and the rise of reggae lies the soulful interlude of rocksteady, a genre that left an indelible mark on Jamaica's musical landscape. In the mid-1960s, as the country underwent significant social and political shifts, among the most significant being political independence from the British Empire, rocksteady emerged as a musical bridge, connecting ska’s exuberance with reggae’s even more profound social commentary.

Rocksteady's distinct sound captivated listeners with smooth, melodic rhythms. Influenced by American soul and rhythm and blues, the genre introduced a slower tempo and more introspective grooves, reflecting the changing landscape of Jamaican society. Historically, rocksteady emerged when Jamaica was transitioning from its colonial past to a newfound sense of cultural identity and political consciousness. The smooth and soulful melodies of rocksteady expressed the Jamaican people’s evolving aspirations and struggles. It provided a platform for introspection, offering a sanctuary of musical solace amidst social and political transformations. Some rocksteady songs went on to become hits outside of Jamaica, as with ska, helping to secure the international base reggae music has today.

Reggae: A Cultural Anthem of Love, Unity, and Social Justice

The wall of records. Christina Xu

Undoubtedly, the most renowned and internationally celebrated genre of Jamaican music is reggae. Born in the late 1960s against the backdrop of a dynamic Jamaican society, reggae emerged as a powerful and transformative force, both musically and culturally. It was a fusion of various influences, including mento, ska, rocksteady, R&B, and the religio-liberationary message of Rastafari, which came together to form a genre with a distinct sound and a profound global impact.

Reggae became the quintessential voice of Jamaica's cultural identity and pride. Its roots ran deep in the history and struggles of the Jamaican people, serving as a vessel for their collective experiences and aspirations. The soul-stirring messages of reggae spoke directly to the hearts and minds of listeners. Its lyrics, laden with social and political commentary, addressed love, unity, and social justice issues, offering a compelling call to action.

Reggae's global impact cannot be overstated. It has become synonymous with Jamaica, attracting audiences from around the world who resonate with its powerful messages and irresistible grooves. Reggae's cultural significance extends beyond music, influencing fashion, art, and of course social movements. Its legacy as a music of liberation and empowerment continues to inspire generations, reminding us of the power of music to transcend borders and ignite positive change.

Explore the world of Jamaican folk music, and immerse yourself in the pulsating energy of live performances at local clubs and music festivals, where the air is thick with the collective joy of dancing to the irresistible beats. More immediately, check out this playlist we created with some of our favorite Jamaican music.

Raeann Mason

Raeann is a traveler, digital storyteller, and guide writer, with a degree in Mass Communication & Media from the Walter Cronkite School of Journalism. She is passionate about a/effective journalism and cultural exchange, and is an advocate of international solidarity and people's liberation. Her work at CATALYST focuses on reshaping the culture of travel and hospitality to be more ethically sound and sustainable.

A Grassroots Youth Movement Is Changing the Political Narrative in Peru

Recent political instability in Peru has resulted in violent uprisings led by the nation’s youth, who are fed up with longstanding corruption. 

Protesters Take the Streets in Lima, Peru CC BY-SA 4.0

Over the past few months Peru’s political system, and especially its President Dina Boluarte, have come under the scrutiny of protestors demanding fair and just elections. A country that ranks 101 out of 180 on the 2022 Corruption Perceptions Index, Peru is categorized as one of the nations with the most public sector corruption. Facing regional criticism with polarization, impeachment threats, and violent manifestations across the country, Peru’s current turmoil is opening a path towards a new Peruvian identity for young citizens who wish to set their nation on a different course. Seeking democracy and transparency, a group of Peruvian students are increasing awareness of structural changes that they feel must take place in their country.

Former Peruvian President Pedro Castillo was arrested in January 2023 after an attempted coup from above, resulting in the ascension of the then Vice President Dina Boluarte to head of state. Many citizens, however, especially those outside of the capital Lima, felt that this was an attack on their freedom because there was no democratic input in the transition. Throughout the pandemic Peru suffered an economic downturn that reduced access to basic services, especially for health care and education. Triggered by the political unrest, civilians have since taken to the street in violent anti-government protests, demanding that their nation allow transparent elections and eliminate elite privilege.

Demonstrations at Plaza Manco Capac following the Ayacucho massacre CC BY-SA 4.0

Peru’s youth  have been key to these protests, taking a stand and raising their voices to demand what they view as a better future free of corruption with access to quality basic services. Creating their own slogan, #TheyMessedWithTheWrongGeneration, Peru’s younger population warns authorities that they will not rest, and plan on continuing the fight for an end to systematic dishonesty and fraud. Considered a grassroots movement, the non-partisan group is gaining momentum as even some among the older generations feel that the current government no longer represents them and that their country deserves better. One activist in the movement, a 33-year-old publicist named Diego Cruz, gave the following statement to reporters at a march, “It’s not just one generation marching here, it’s everyone, because we feel outraged that [congress] is carving up the country.” 

The youth movement also demands university reform, adherents arguing that access to college is not possible for everyone, especially those that live in rural communities far from the cities. Politicians and traditional political analysts mistook the youth’s dissatisfaction of the old ways for political apathy, a supposition which has now proven woefully false. Members hope that their movement can pave the way to a better, more transparent Peru.  It remains to be seen whether they will achieve this.

Kimberly Hidalgo Hernandez

Having obtained a MA in International Policy, Kimberly seeks to bridge the gap between global development and government legislation. Growing up between the United States and Spain, she believes that travel is the best way to discover yourself and understand the world. Her goal is to promote a deeper awareness of the effects of climate change in society and politics.

The Largest Salt Flat in the World in Bolivia

Bolivia’s Salar de Uyuni is one of the country’s wonders. Despite the amount of tourists it still preserves its beauty.

Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia. Giacomo Buzzao. CC BY 2.0.

Located in the Andean Plateau in South America, the Salar de Uyuni is the largest salt flat in the world. It is in southwestern Bolivia, close to the border between Bolivia, Chile and north of the Argentinian border. It is over 4,050 square miles and the salt crust stretches to the horizon. It is also 10,000 feet above sea level, as it is located in the Andes. Since the salt is white, the Salar de Uyuni appears to be a large white desert, but during the rainy season, nearby lakes overflow, rivers empty into the salt flat and it becomes filled with water.

Though the seeing the dry, white salt stretch for miles is beautiful, when the salt flat is filled with water, it creates a clear mirror-like lake. Generally, there are only a few centimeters of water so it is still possible to walk on it, but as the weather is unpredictable, some areas become restricted for safety. The salt flat is mostly waterproof, but too much rain will melt some of the salt and make it dangerous to walk on. However, during this time, Salar de Uyuni turns into the world’s largest natural mirror, reflecting the light from the sky. The winter months also have clear skies that offer beautiful stargazing opportunities, the reflected stars only adding to the salt flat’s wonder.

The Salar de Uyuni is large enough to be seen from space, and it contains 10 billion tonnes of salt. 70% of the lithium in the world is also mined from this salt flat. The Salar de Uyuni was created 40,000 years ago, after Lake Michin evaporated. Over the course of its slow evaporation, the salt hardened and created a crust that formed the area into what it is today. In addition, there is still water underneath the salt that continues to evaporate as temperatures rise, which adds more salt to the surface. 

Beyond the scientific explanation for the Salar de Uyuni’s creation, the locals have passed on their own legends. In one of them, one of the nearby mountain goddesses, Yana Pollera, gave birth to a baby that two other mountain gods fought over. They both believed themselves to be the father, and Yana Pollera sent her child away to where the salt flat is located today and flooded the area with her milk that eventually evaporated into salt so it would survive. Another legend claims the flat was formed because after two mountain gods were married, the husband left and the wife cried until her tears created the Salar de Uyuni. 

Dawn at Salar de Uyuni. Trevor McKinnon CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

Because of its location, there are many tours leaving from Bolivia and Chile, and many of them stretch over the course of multiple days in order to get the most out of the natural beauty. Planes, buses and trains are all able to get to Uyuni, the town closest to the salt flat, but there are also tours from Tupiza, a town south of Uyuni, and San Pedro de Atacama, a town in Chile.

Katherine Lim

Katherine Lim is an undergraduate student at Vassar College studying English literature and Italian. She loves both reading and writing, and she hopes to pursue both in the future. With a passion for travel and nature, she wants to experience more of the world and everything it has to offer.

Restoring the Amazon Rainforest

Deforestation of the Amazon rainforest has hurt it immensely but reforestation efforts are working to restore its former glory.

Amazon Rainforest. Neil Palmer. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Deforestation is the process of destroying the tree cover in a forest, so technically it started when humans first started cutting down trees for fires and to build homes. However, the Industrial Revolution in the 1800s caused a massive jump in deforestation, with 177 million square miles of trees having been destroyed just by 1850. Though the issue has persisted, it is only in the last 70 years that people have realized it is a major environmental problem. Even today, around 25 million hectares of forest are being destroyed every year. The agricultural industry is the leading cause of deforestation as people destroy forest land for commercial farming, especially for livestock feeding, soy and palm oil. Other industries such as the textile industry, food industry, chemical and construction industries also benefit from the deforestation. Also, one method of deforestation is slashing and burning the trees, which harms the soil and makes it harder for plants to grow in the future. This affects not just the forest, but the farmers who take over the land because they are unable to grow crops for many years and need to keep cutting down more trees. 

One forest in particular that has continuously suffered from deforestation is the Amazon rainforest, the largest rainforest in the world. It spans across Bolivia, Brazil, Colombia, Ecuador, French Guiana, Guyana, Peru, Suriname and Venezuela, which covers around 40% of South America. The ecosystem of Amazon forest is incredibly diverse, with more species of plants and animals than any other terrestrial ecosystem in the entire world. With industrialization and the continuous deforestation, large sections of the rainforest have vanished.

However, many forest restoration efforts have happened in an attempt to save it. Forest restoration is a process to improve the health of a forest, though nothing will fully restore it to its original glory because of destroyed soil and invasive species of both plants and animals. The process aims to heal the destruction caused by deforestation as much as it can, but it isn’t as simple as people replanting the trees. The soil has to be improved, the wildlife must be protected and anyone who uses the land needs to use it sustainably. 

Vine in the Amazon Rainforest. Ben Sutherland. CC BY 2.0

In terms of the Amazon specifically, many efforts are starting to be made as people recognize the increasingly negative impact they have been causing on the rainforest. For example, in Colombia, a business in bioeconomy is gaining popularity. Forest schools such as the Amazonía Emprende - Escuela Bosque teach local communities to have sustainable business practices, and restore thousands of hectares of land within the next few years. Nature tourism is another method that people are using. It is a way for Indiginous communities to show and teach others about the rainforest, and raising awareness like this also helps improve the living conditions of the people. Another way Colombia is making efforts to preserve the rainforest is simply just growing food more sustainably. There are companies that grow plants in an eco-friendly way, and help families who make a living doing this. 

There are also programs such as the Amazon Sustainable Landscape Program (ASL), which aims to improve the overall management of landscape and ecosystem of the rainforest. The ASL combines efforts from many organizations, such as the World Bank, World Wildlife Fund, International Fund for Agricultural Development and more. With the ASL, these groups have a way to collaborate in a massive effort to restore the rainforest. Big organizations and communities working together is needed for large scale efforts like this to be truly effective in restorating the Amazon.

To Get Involved

There are many organizations trying to help rainforests. The Rainforest Action Network RAN) has a Protect an Acre program, similar to buy-an-acre programs that allow for people to buy an acre of forest land so it won’t be destroyed. The Amazonía Emprende school mentioned earlier educates people about sustainable business practices. The ASL wants to better the management of the Amazon.

To discover more about the Amazonía Emprende school, click here.

To discover more about the ASL and its goals, click here.

To discover more about the RAN and how to donate to them, click here.

Katherine Lim

Katherine is an undergraduate student at Vassar College studying English literature and Italian. She loves both reading and writing, and she hopes to pursue both in the future. With a passion for travel and nature, she wants to experience more of the world and everything it has to offer.

The Smallest Country in South America: Suriname

The nation of Suriname is home to a multicultural society and the Amazon rainforest. Yet, little is known of the country as it attempts to stand out behind the shadows of its former Dutch colony. 

Suriname River Waterfront. D-Stanley. CC BY 2.0

When one thinks of South America, one thinks of all the Spanish-speaking countries. However, rarely do you think of The Guianas, the three countries in the northern part of the continent: Guyana, Suriname and French Guiana. The smallest nation of the three is Suriname, and it covers a surface area of 63,252 square miles. Known as a former colony of The Netherlands, Suriname gained its independence in 1975. This Dutch-speaking nation is surrounded by 94% of pristine forest and has a multicultural society. 

Suriname is named after its first occupants, the Surinen Indians. However, in 1602 the Dutch settled in the region, and by 1667 it became a colony of the Netherlands. Throughout the Dutch’s settlement in the nation, many important events made Suriname the country it is today. After the termination of slavery, the Dutch brought in East Indian laborers. The Netherlands granted Suriname its independence on November 25th, 1975, when the Surinamese people rioted over inflation and unemployment. Fast forward to today, the country is a constitutional democracy. 

In addition, Suriname is struggling with seven in ten people falling below the poverty line. The Surinamese rely heavily on the exportation of gold and other minerals, accounting for 85% of exports and 27% of government revenues. Agriculture is also a big part of their exportation, which includes bananas, rice and shrimp. With poverty taking a toll on its people, there has been an upside to their current financial situation. The country will begin producing oil in 2025, appealing to prospective investors. The government holds 13 billion barrels of oil and gas that have been discovered in the past six years. With this finding, financial stability can emerge for the Surinamese. At the moment, Suriname produces oil for domestic use and its own oil company Staatsolie. 

Surinam youth. KITLV Collections. CC BY-NC 2.0

With the history Suriname has lived through, it is no surprise that it is a multicultural nation. It is made up of South Asians (Indians), Maroons, Suriname Creole(Afro-Surinamese), Javanese, biracial and others. 

Even ith this diverse and integrated culture that makes up Suriname, citizens of this nation  live peacefully among one another. So much so that a Jewish temple and a Muslim mosque sit side by side in the capital city of Paramaribo. This cohabitation can be seen as the entire country officially marks other nations’ religious and nonreligious holidays as their own. . These holidays include Chinese New Year, Easter, Indigenious Peoples Day, Maroons day, Idul Adha and Deepavali. Through this act, the nation exemplifies unity through its melting pot of diversity. 

With any diverse culture comes an eccentric music genre. Through the music, one can hear the different backgrounds of each region represented. Suriname’s music style is no different. It is a mixture of International European, North American indigenous and South American rhythms. One of the Surinamese most well-known music forms is Kaseko. It is a fast-paced beat with Indo-Caribbean influence, which emphasizes wind instruments and percussion. 

The nation’s cuisine is quite diverse as well and is a big part of the Surinamese culture. However, there is a dish that they call their own, which is Pom, the National dish. The name Pom is short for pomtajer, the root vegetable used to top the dish. Pom is a casserole made up of root vegetables and your choice of meat. This dish is a luxury, usually served on special occasions due to the high cost of meat.  

Muslim Temple and Jewish Mosque sitting side by side. Dan Lundberg. CC BY-SA 2.0

There are many influences in the country’s buildings and architecture today. With all of the ethnicities and cultures that inhabit Suriname, it is no surprise it would spill over onto the design of the city. Made up of mostly wooden buildings, the style and design seem to have stayed rooted in a specific time period. There are no contemporary buildings, and that is what makes the city so enchanting. Throughout Suriname you can see the fusion of Dutch, North American and Creole culture and others in the architectural style. 

On the outskirts of the city sits more than 90% of lush green forest, the Amazon. With such vast greenery, this forest is home to 150 species of mammals, 650 bird species and 350 fish species. With such a large part of the forest being untouched and preserved, Suriname species don’t face extinction like other species around the world. This is due to the capacity of the land makes it easy to house the numerous species. Nature enthusiasts visit the various nature reserves Suriname has to offer. The largest and most popular is the Central Suriname Nature Reserve at 1.6 million hectares; it protects the upper watershed of the mighty Coppename River and other important rivers. The reserve’s animals include sloths, jaguar, tapir, eight species of primates and others. 

Sunset in the Suriname rainforest. Delphinidaesy. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

This small nation is home to slightly fewer than 600,000 people. Although mostly unknown to many, Suriname is slowly bringing in many travelers worldwide. Its unique landscape and culture are admired and it is sure to attract many more travelers in the years to come. Suriname is making a name for itself on the world map with so many species to see and nature reserves to explore. 

RELATED CONTENT:

Jennifer Sung

www.jennwanders.com

Jennifer is a Communications Studies graduate based in Los Angeles. She grew up traveling with her dad and that is where her love for travel stems from. You can find her serving the community at her church, Fearless LA or planning her next trip overseas. She hopes to be involved in international humanitarian work one day.