Protests for Palestine and Israel Take Off Around the World

Countries across the world have taken to protest in response to the Israel-Hamas War.

Protest for Palestine in Melbourne. Matt Hrkac. CC BY 2.0

On October 7, Hamas launched an unprecedented attack on Israel from the Gaza Strip that killed more than 1,200 people. Since the assault Israel has responded with a ground invasion that has resulted in the death of more than 11,000 people in the exclave. In light of the growing humanitarian crises in Israel and Palestine, protests supporting either side in the conflict erupted globally. 

In the Middle East, and particularly Egypt, pro-Palestinian rallies have broken out, expressing solidarity with the population of Gaza over the hostilities. A mass protest on October 20 resulted in the prosecution and detainment of at least 100 people at al-Azhar Mosque in Central Cairo. On October 29, thousands gathered in Islamabad, which became the largest pro-Palestine rally in Pakistan since the beginning of the war in October. Protests denouncing Israel’s aerial bombardment in Gaza have ramped up around the Middle East, particularly in Jordan. On October 13, riot police dispersed hundreds of protestors attempting to reach a border zone within the West Bank. Jordanian anti-riot police clashed with protesters again on October 18 after demonstrators planned to march to the Israeli embassy and were torching property along the way. In Africa, Israel has substantial support from the Ivory Coast and Kenya, but public sympathies have predominantly tilted toward the Palestinians.

Reactions to the war have varied across Europe. In Paris, hundreds gathered on October 12 to express solidarity with Palestinians and call for a ceasefire from Israeli strikes in Gaza. This demonstration resulted in police using tear gas and water cannons to control crowds. Across France there were around 40 other demonstrations, including one in Lyon with an estimated turnout of 5,000 people, according to French police who, again, used force to control the protest. Conversely, thousands marched in support of Israel. On October 9, a crowd gathered at Place du Trocadero for a march that rallied 20,000 people at an Eiffel Tower lit to resemble the flag of Israel. 

London has also experienced thousands of pro-Palestine protests. On October 21, nearly 100,000 protestors took to the streets of Central London to call for an end to Israel’s bombing of Gaza. Hundreds more gathered in Trafalgar Square on November 5 for a sit-in that brought Oxford Circus to a standstill. On November 11, hundreds of thousands of people gathered for what became the largest pro-Palestine protest in British history. Demonstrators also expressed support for Israel in Trafalgar Square in response to the pro-Palestine demonstration a day before. The rally filled Central London Square and included posters of those who are missing, calling for the release of hostages taken by Hamas in the initial attack. 

Palestine Solidarity Protestors in Trafalgar Square, London. Alisdare Hickson. CC BY 2.0

Similar to Europe, in the United States there has been widespread support for the Palestinian cause. A November 4 protest in Washington D.C. drew supporters from around the country with 300,000 people in attendance, making this the largest pro-Palestine mobilization in U.S. history. Other cities across the country have also demonstrated support for Palestine: hundreds marched in Boston on October 16, over 1,000 people attended a demonstration in Chicago on October 18 and a peaceful march on November 7 in New York City. Tens of thousands of demonstrators have crowded city streets to demand a ceasefire in Gaza, including Jewish advocacy groups. On October 27, thousands of Jews gathered in Grand Central Station to denounce the violence against Palestinians. The gathering was organized by the Jewish Voice for Peace organization, which held a second protest on November 6 at the Statue of Liberty, attended by hundreds. The group has been involved with cities across the country and has mobilized demand for a ceasefire in many other places: JVP-Philly, JVP-Seattle, JVP-BayArea and JVP-Triangle (Durham NC). In concentrated efforts, universities across the country have held protests. At Harvard University, more than 1,000 students rallied in Harvard Yard in support of Gaza on October 15. In Providence, around 500 Brown University students walked out of class on October 25 to support Palestine and a second walkout was held on November 8. On the evening of the 8th, a peaceful sit-in of about 20 Jewish students took place in Brown’s University Hall.

Jewish Allies for Palestine in NYC. Pamela Drew. CC BY 2.0 

Comparable to other global responses to the conflict, Asia has also experienced an influx of pro-Palestine support. In Indonesia and Malaysia, protests against Israel’s offensive in the Gaza Strip have erupted. In Jakarta, thousands gathered at the National Monument on November 5 to express solidarity and support with Gaza. In Kuala Lumpur, 15,000 people gathered on October 15 to condemn Israel’s attacks, including prominent politicians such as former prime ministers Muhyidden Yassin and Mahathir Mohamad. Much of Southeast Asia has been swept by solidarity for Palestinians, including Singapore, and in response to the ban on public rallies, activists have mobilized online to demonstrate their support. In New Delhi, two Muslim scholars used a WhatsApp display photo reading ‘I stand with Palestine’ to extend their support. Online mobilization has perhaps created a way to reach a broader audience. In India, pro-Israel rallies have been permitted; however, there has been a crackdown on Palestinian solidarity demonstrations.

In Latin and South America, protests have spread across most countries in support of the Palestinian cause, including Belize, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile and Venezuela. On November 4, pro-Palestine supporters gathered on Avenida Paulista in Sao Paulo for a demonstration. They held rolled clothes stained with red paint to represent children who have been lost to the violence. Outraged by the conflict, thousands gathered on October 25 at the outskirts of Santiago de Chile for a concert expressing solidarity with Palestinians. Support for Israel in South America in the form of protests or demonstrations appears to be minor; however, it may just be overwhelmed by the abundance of support for Palestine.

In Australia, pro-Palestine rallies in Sydney have called for the government to drop its support for Israel. On October 5, 20,000 people participated in a pro-Palestine rally that came after the one in Washington D.C., calling for a ceasefire of the hostilities. Protests in Australia have continued to be primarily pro-Palestine, with 15,000 marching through Sydney on  October 21 and other rallies held in Perth, Hobart and Brisbane. On November 7, a pro-Palestine protest of about 100 people blocked a busy intersection in Melbourne. The police subsequently used pepper spray on the activists and dragged them from the intersection in an attempt to get traffic moving again. Hundreds of people showed up to a protest the following day, preventing trucks from entering the operating area of an Israeli shipping line.

Melbourne Rally for Palestine. Matt Hrkac. CC BY 2.0

Even in the midst of polarized opinions, Jewish peace activists in the United States called for a ceasefire in Gaza and justice for Palestinians. 10,000 people, including Jews, marched on Capitol Hill on October 18, calling on the U.S. government to stop providing aid to Israel and acknowledging the conflict as a “sobering reminder” of Jewish history. Stark reminders of Jewish people lost to or missing in the conflict have taken shape in the form of “kidnapped” posters or empty Shabbat tables, representing the plight of the Israeli psyche and spreading awareness of those being held hostage. These kidnapped posters have subsequently been torn down by anti-Israel activists, quickly become its own form of protest, often characterized as antisemitic. An empty Shabbat table installation was created in Times Square to raise awareness for the 224 hostages being held by Hamas. An estimated 290,000 people gathered on November 14 in D.C. to demonstrate the solidarity of the Jewish community and in response to critics of the Israeli military.

Globally, people are demanding peace and justice through action. In spite of challenges towards a sustainable solution, global protests embody the collective hope for Israelis and Palestinians to coexist in peace and security.

TO FIND OUT WHERE TO JOIN PROTESTS

Jewish Voice for Peace - As the largest anti-Zionist organization in the world, this group identifies themselves as a political home for Jews on the left and a Jewish community with solidarity for the Palestinian cause. 

Palestine Solidarity Campaign - PSC is the biggest organization in the UK, dedicated to securing Palestinian rights and freedom for everyone in the region.

National Students for Justice in Palestine - The group supports over two hundred Palestine solidarity organizations on college campuses in the U.S. and Canada, promoting an agenda for Palestinian liberation.

ANSWER Coalition - As an acronym that stands for Act Now To Stop War and End Racism, the coalition has mobilized anti-war and peace movements for the people of Palestine.

Palestinian Feminist Collective - PFC is a group of Palestinian and Arab feminists committed to Palestinian liberation by addressing gendered and sexual violence.

Rabbis for Ceasefire - A group of Rabbis who have called for ceasefire to genocidal violence, calling on American representatives to demand immediate action.

Israeli-American Council - The IAC’s mission is to build a united community of Israeli-Americans to strengthen the Jewish identity. It is the United States’s largest Israeli-American organization.

The Jewish Federations of North America - Made up of 146 federations across North America, the group's mission is to protect and enhance the well-being of Jewish people through contributions to Jewish communities and Israel.


Mira White

Mira is a student at Brown University studying international and public affairs. Passionate about travel and language learning, she is eager to visit each continent to better understand the world and the people across it. In her free time she perfects her French, hoping to someday live in France working as a freelance journalist or in international affairs.

The Essential Palestine Reading List

Dive into this collection that illuminates the rich tapestry of Palestinian history and culture.

An aerial view of Palestine. CC0

Curated with a respect for the multifaceted narratives of the region, this collection encapsulates an array of perspectives, histories and lived experiences. Each title delves deep into the heart of Palestinian identity, the intricacies of the conflict and the resilient spirit of a people striving for justice and peace.

NON-FICTION

1. They Called Me a Lioness 

by Ahed Tamimi and Dena Takruri

Ahed Tamimi, an iconic Palestinian activist, garnered global attention for her fearless activism against the Israeli occupation. Her imprisonment as a teenager after confronting an Israeli soldier in her village of Nabi Saleh turned her into a symbol of Palestinian resistance. This compelling memoir offers a firsthand account of Tamini’s experiences and the ongoing struggle for justice in Palestine, providing profound insight into the realities Palestinians face under occupation.

2. The Ethnic Cleansing of Palestine 

by Ilan Pappé

In this seminal work, Ilan Pappé meticulously traces the events of the 1948 Palestinian exodus, revealing the hidden reality of forced displacement and the establishment of Israel. With unflinching detail, Pappé unearths harrowing stories of dispossession and illuminates the profound impact of this historical upheaval on the Palestinian people.

3. Love Is an Ex-Country 

by Randa Jarrar

In her memoir, Randa Jarrar fearlessly challenges stereotypes about Muslims and Palestinians. Embarking on a cross-country journey, Jarrar proudly embraces her queer, Muslim, Palestinian and unapologetically confident identity, offering a raw, authentic exploration of the intricacies of life.

4. The Iron Cage: The Story of the Palestinian Struggle for Statehood 

by Rashid Khalidi

Historian Rashid Khalidi masterfully dissects the intricate history of Palestinian nationalism and aspirations for statehood. With scholarly precision, Khalidi navigates through decades of political intrigue, chronicling the challenges, setbacks and enduring resilience of a people bent on self-determination and recognition on the world stage.

5. The Hundred Years' War on Palestine 

by Rashid Khalidi

Rashid Khalidi's meticulously researched book paints a vivid historical tapestry from the 1800s to the present in this unshrinking account of the assault on Palestinian society.

6. We Are Not Here to Be Bystanders 

by Linda Sarsour

Linda Sarsour's memoir portrays her journey from Brooklyn to becoming a powerhouse in activism, stirring profound reflections on solidarity and advocacy.

7. Except for Palestine 

by Marc Lamont Hill and Mitchell Plitnick

Marc Lamont Hill and Mitchell Plitnick's critique navigates the inconsistencies within progressive circles, urging universal consistency in advocating for all oppressed communities.

FICTION

1. Mornings in Jenin 

by Susan Abulhawa

Susan Abulhawa crafts a poignant, multigenerational narrative that traverses the emotional terrain of a Palestinian family's journey through displacement and loss. Through exquisite storytelling, Abulhawa offers a deeply moving portrayal of resilience amid a tumultuous landscape of conflict and highlights the enduring spirit of the Palestinian people.

2. The Tiny Journalist: Poems 

by Naomi Shihab Nye

Naomi Shihab Nye, the esteemed Palestinian-American poet, weaves poetic wonders inspired by Janna Jihad Ayyad, Palestine's youngest journalist. Ayyad, capturing anti-occupation protests at the age of seven using her mom's smartphone, becomes Nye's muse in this must-read collection.

3. You Exist Too Much 

by Zaina Arafat

Zaina Arafat's debut novel is a transcontinental tale which oscillates between the United States and the Middle East. A fresh voice in Palestinian-American literature, Arafat artfully dismantles Israel’s pinkwashing while unraveling the complexities of Palestinian society for diverse readers.

4. Enter Ghost 

by Isabella Hammad

Isabella Hammad's evocative narrative navigates modern-day Palestine, delving into the artist's struggles amid diaspora, displacement, and the shadow of occupation.

5. Evil Eye 

by Etaf Rum

Etaf Rum's exploration of womanhood as a Palestinian American is a profound journey through intergenerational trauma, clashes of culture and labyrinthian family dynamics.

6. Salt House

by Hala Alyan

Set in the aftermath of Israel’s conquest of the West Bank and Gaza in the 1967 Six-Day War, "Salt Houses" chronicles a Palestinian family's odyssey from their homeland to Kuwait, painting a poignant legacy of longing and displacement passed through generations.

7. Mother of Strangers 
by Suad Amiry

"Mother of Strangers" presents a cinematic love story against the backdrop of the Nakba in Jaffa, weaving themes of love, loss, and a nation's upheaval.


Raeann Mason

Raeann is a traveler, digital storyteller, and guide writer, with a degree in Mass Communication & Media from the Walter Cronkite School of Journalism. She is passionate about a/effective journalism and cultural exchange, and is an advocate of international solidarity and people's liberation. Her work at CATALYST PLANET focuses on reshaping the culture of travel and hospitality to be more ethically sound and sustainable

Amsterdam's Quest for a Safer Red-Light District

Propositions for legislative shifts strive for balance between tourism, public safety and the well-being of sex workers.

Red Light District Canal Street View. Alejandro Forero Cuervo. CC BY 2.0

For decades Amsterdam has been inundated by rowdy crowds of eager sightseeing tourists and a hotspot for visitors craving a subversive experience. The Netherlands’ progressive capital has long had a uniquely tolerant approach to often prohibited substances such as marijuana and psilocybin as well as toward the legalization of sex work. While the city openly celebrates this unique facet of its culture, the Dutch government has been forced to grapple with an influx of unruly visitors and an increasingly polluted, noisy, and at times unsafe Red Light district.

Amsterdam Smoke Shops. Travelmag.com. CC BY 2.0

In response to the district’s increasingly obstreperous environment, the city sought to address local residents’ noise and substance abuse concerns by proposing new regulations this past spring. The city has insisted on earlier closing times for bars (2 a.m., with no entry after 1 a.m.), stopped sex workers from working after 3 a.m., and banned the use of marijuana, alcohol, and other drugs in the streets. In response to the city’s regulatory shifts entrepreneurs, business owners and bartenders have been outspoken in frustration against the new policies, claiming little has changed in regards to the safety and cleanliness of the area. Sex workers have also voiced complaints over the restriction placed on the time they are allowed to work, expressing concern that the reduced hours have put them under financial pressure. This destitution can force them to accept clients they would normally reject. 

Canal View Red Light District. Pixabay.com. CC BY 1.0

To further alleviate the pressure on the Red Light district, Amsterdam's authorities are considering a more drastic approach: creating a new location for legal sex work in a different neighborhood. This new location would be in a suburban area, and many are referring to the proposed locale as a “suburban erotic center” The goal of the move is to spread out the demand and ease the burden on the current district. 

Since the legalization of sex work in the Netherlands in 2000 the country has been vigilant about enforcing a safe environment for individuals in the field, with regulations in place to combat human trafficking and other criminal behavior. For instance, sex work is illegal to practice in any space outside of a registered business (e.g. at home, in hotels, or in public spaces). In an attempt to protect and respect workers the city has banned tours of the Red Light district, required visitors to identify themselves with a valid form of ID, and set 21 as the minimum age for sex workers. 

An Amsterdam Sex Shop. Rob Kievit. CC BY-SA 2.0 

The city’s proposition of a new epicenter for sex work is still in its early phases, but it would dramatically change the scope of Amsterdam’s tourism. With fewer than a million residents, the city hosts roughly 20 million visitors annually, and tourism is one of the leading markets for local businesses. Any major change to laws regarding sex work and the overall functioning of the district will inevitably lead to shifts in the travel industry. The question remains as to whether the new area created to host erotic work will fix the industry’s systemic problems and help protect workers, and if it will solve the issues of over-tourism and noise pollution. 


Avery Patterson

A rising junior at Vassar College in New York State, Avery is a Media Studies and French double major. She is an avid reader, writer, and traveler. She loves to immerse herself in new cultures and is an avid explorer who loves being in nature. She is passionate about climate and social justice and hopes to use her love of writing as a catalyst for positive change.

Stolen Childhoods: Unveiling Orphanage Tourism Across the Globe

Traffickers exploit the vulnerability of children for financial incentives from donors in orphanages and child residential homes.

Two young Haitian children. CC0

Across the globe, there are an estimated eight million children living in orphanages. Of this, 80% are not actually orphans and have at least one living parent. These children have been taken from their families and placed into children’s residential homes so that the caretakers can make a profit.

Orphanages, which are often viewed as a place of refuge for children, have begun using foreign generosity to profit off of their vulnerability. “Orphanage trafficking” involves children being recruited into residential care institutions for profit or exploitation and is not confined to any one country. This has sparked a new industry — orphanage volunteering — that has created a demand for institutions that will present children as ‘in need’ to make a profit from foreign donors. In Cambodia, for example, residential care institutions have increased by 75% in the last decade despite a decrease in the number of “real orphans.” Similarly, in Uganda, residential homes have increased the number of children under their care from 1,000 to 55,000 even with the subsequent decline in the prevalence of orphans themselves. This rise in residential institutions has taken place primarily in tourist hotspots so that orphanages can capitalize on financial incentives.

As a system that takes advantage of the international market and tourism business, this has become a global problem. A significant rise has been observed in post-conflict Nepal, beginning in 2006. During the Nepalese Civil War, traffickers posed as boarding school representatives and promised children and their families better living conditions in Nepal’s capital, Kathmandu. Rather than being taken to educational institutions, children were taken to under-resourced orphanages and declared “paper orphans.” This sales pitch has evolved accordingly, shifting from inter-country adoption alone to running orphanages in tourist areas to attract donations — 90% of homes being in the top 5 tourist districts. In 2015, Next Generation Nepal (NGN) and UNICEF released statements warning about the increase in child institutionalization. The government of Nepal subsequently passed a directive prohibiting children to cross district borders unless they were with their parents or had government approval. There are still hundreds of children living in orphanages in Nepal today, although the COVID-19 pandemic restricted operational space and allowed local governments to better implement their child protection mandates, contributing to the strengthening of the overall system.

In China, there is also an opaque relationship between trafficking and adoption. It was discovered in 2012 that Americans alone adopted almost 3,000 Chinese children who were taken from their parents and sold into orphanages. As a country that is aware of the existing issue, parents often have to take matters into their own hands to conduct searches because local law enforcement will silence anyone who is publicly discontent. Aside from the financial incentive of orphanage volunteering alone, scammers have even gone as far as to request large sums of money from parents for information on their child’s whereabouts, information that is ultimately fake.

Aside from the vulnerabilities of the children, traffickers also prey on those of their parents. In Haiti particularly, parents placed their children into orphanages after the 2010 earthquake. They were pressured to believe that their children would be better off; they would have a roof over their heads, food and access to education. One woman, struggling to provide for her sons, was approached by Jonathas Vernet who offered to help her. Vernert, previously running the Four Winds Spirit orphanage, was found to have subjected children to cooking, cleaning and abusively harsh discipline. The children did not attend school and lived in distressed conditions, but Vernet justified this by blaming American donors for neglecting to offer sufficient financial support. An estimated $100 million a year is donated to all orphanages in Haiti by churches and nonprofits in the United States for the purpose of providing food, water, medical care and education. However, most of this money is used to drive the continuation of profit from orphanage volunteering and further expand the business. To end the institutionalization of children, Lumos, an to replace orphanages with foster care systems and advocates for local adoption practices. The organization also advises donors to ensure that the projects they are supporting have a sustainable care vision.

Today, orphanage trafficking in Haiti has not changed much. As of 2021, it was estimated that there were 30,000 children in 750 orphanages, with only 35–50 of those being licensed. Despite efforts to develop and regulate the foster care system in Haiti, attempts to combat orphanage tourism have been static as a result of continued high poverty and unemployment rates.


Globally, orphanages have become hubs where child exploitation for profit can thrive, so long as there are still unmonitored donations and vulnerable children. To better curb the proliferation of child trafficking into orphanages, it is recommended that governments prioritize community-based care and better inform philanthropists how their donations to orphanages may be misused. By combating this issue with strengthened child protection systems, increased awareness and the promotion of family-based care over institutionalization, the root causes of this problem can be mitigated and children better protected.


Mira White

Mira is a student at Brown University studying international and public affairs. Passionate about travel and language learning, she is eager to visit each continent to better understand the world and the people across it. In her free time she perfects her French, hoping to someday live in France working as a freelance journalist or in international affairs.

The Atacama Desert’s Fashion Graveyard

Once a vast, uninterrupted plateau, Chile’s Atacama Desert is now a technicolor testament to overconsumption.

The Atacama Fashion Graveyard. Antonio Cosio. CC BY-NC.

A cursor hovering over the checkout of an Amazon cart; an unassuming paper bag carrying the new, trendiest cut of jeans from Forever 21; a Gmail notification that indicates a menagerie of Shein clothing has been shipped. These testaments to overconsumption in daily life may produce a quick, subtle pang of guilt. But, ultimately, this engagement with the world of fast fashion tends to be “out of sight, out of mind.” After all, once the clothing is donated or discarded most people assume it will end up in a landfill, neatly tucked away, never to be seen again. With no visual proof of the waste guilt subsides, and the cycle of overconsumption repeats. 

The cyclical and rampant nature of overconsumption, however, has real, tangible implications — implications that can be seen and felt by citizens of Iquique, a Northern Chilean city in the Atacama Desert. An average of 39,000 tons of fast fashion waste are dumped in Iquique per year, in addition to the approximately 60,000 tons of clothing imported into Chile annually. Roughly 40,000 square miles, the Atacama desert was once a pristine yet arid plateau; a prime sight for stargazing under a clear, open sky. The desert landscape, covered in salt flats, valleys and rocky topography, averages about 40,000 visitors per year but has since been contaminated. 

The clothing pile has grown to such an extent that it can be seen from space using satellite technology. But, before the magnitude of clothing became noticeable from an extraterrestrial viewpoint, people residing in Alto Hospicio, a municipality next to Iquique, watched as the unbridled clothing dumping grew out of hand. Clothes manufactured in China and Bangladesh that fail to sell in U.S. stores are brought in through the port of Iquique and subsequently dumped into the Atacama. The dumping site raised concerns among citizens of Alto Hospicio as early as 2012, but their unease was ignored.

The Atacama Desert. NASA. CC0.

Disheartened, the people of Alto Hospicio claimed to have experienced negligence by local and national government officials firsthand. For years, the waste grew despite continual pleas for action. Although in 2021 the former Minister for the Environment of Chile, Javier Naranjo Solano, expressed his worries about the vast quantities of textiles being imported into Chile and proposed remediation, some Chilean environmental engineers and scientists feared that the the laws he proposed, entangled with bureaucratic processes,  would be far too slow-moving considering the urgent, rapid growth of the clothing pile. Other citizens, however, have faith that Chile’s newly appointed Minister for the Environment, Maisa Rojas, will be able to translate eco-anxiety into concrete action.

Even under new leadership, however, the already massive pile of clothing is a nearly indestructible hazard. Much of the poor-quality fast fashion clothing dumped in Atacama is polyester, a material made out of the non-renewable resource petroleum. The open-air clothing pile secretes pollutants into the air; they seep into the ground. Thus, petroleum and other harmful materials can contaminate any remaining groundwater in aquifers under the desert. As potent as plastic and as enduring as steel, the clothing dumped in Atacama will take 200 years to biograde.

The Atacama Desert is often considered the driest climate on the planet, with annual rainfall averaging at only .03 inches. Atacama’s arid climate dangerously aids the spread of intentionally ignited fires. In order to curtail the amount of clothing discarded, fires are illegally and mysteriously started. These fires only serve as a further pollutant on top of the fabric already decomposing in the hot, arid environment. 

Although many merchants reside in Iquique,  one of South America’s largest duty free ports, many in the municipality of Alto Hospicio live in poverty — 25% of residents in Alto Hospicio specifically live in extreme poverty and, with many having poor access to quality housing. Although many residents travel to the Atacama fashion graveyard to salvage and sell discarded clothing, their proximity to the dump site has sinister implications: the negligence of the Atacama fashion desert and subsequent pollution acutely harms low-income communities in Northern Chile. Fast fashion waste, both burnt and decomposing, creates fumes that are linked to respiratory diseases, chronic illnesses, reproductive issues and even types of cancer.

The Port of Iquique. Diego Delso. CC-BY-SA 4.0.

Although there are efforts to repurpose the dumped clothing, with companies such as Ecofibra Chile taking the fabric and transforming it into thermal insulation panels, only one method of curtailing fast-fashion waste can truly have an impact: curbing our own overconsumption. Instead of purchasing that cost-effective Amazon fashion find, or the trendy new jeans from Forever 21, look into your own closet. Rediscover a dress that has been tucked away in the depths of your dresser. Organize a clothes swap with friends. Borrow your Aunt’s blouse or your Grandfather’s wool sweater. Rather than falling victim to trend cycles, explore what has been cherished, saved and passed down.


Carina Cole

Carina Cole is a Media Studies student with a Correlate in Creative Writing at Vassar College. She is an avid journalist and occasional flash fiction writer. Her passion for writing overlaps with environmentalism, feminism, social justice, and a desire to travel beyond the United States. When she’s not writing, you can find her meticulously curating playlists or picking up a paintbrush. 

Flooding in Libya: A Harbinger of Climate Change’s Deadly Effects

Sustainable infrastructure is the world’s best defense against increase in precipitation due to climate change.

Aid workers struggle to reach city in Libya where catastrophic flooding killed thousands. PBS.

Catastrophic flooding in Libya in September has taken as many as 5,300 human lives, according to the Interior Ministry of Libya’s eastern government. Amid such massive human casualties, many around the world are left wondering how such losses may be prevented as climate related natural disasters become increasingly common.

Extreme flooding events like the one in Libya are on the rise as Earth’s average temperature increases, causing more evaporation and thus greater precipitation. According to the EPA, global precipitation has increased by an average of 0.04 inches per decade since 1901. In more than half of recorded locations, flooding is now at least 5 times more common than it was in the 1950s. This month alone, the effects of extreme precipitation and flooding have been felt in Hong Kong, Greece, Turkey, Brazil, Libya and the United States. 

In Libya and around the world, urban planning must adapt quickly to the rising threat of flooding. However, this poses a challenge for many developing nations where resources are often either limited or diverted elsewhere. For example, in Derna, the city in northeast Libya that was the most affected by the flooding, neglected infrastructure was in part to blame for the catastrophic loss of human life. Heavy rains caused two dams to burst, dams that experts have been warning are prone to collapse for years. Unfortunately, resources in Libya are generally diverted towards the ongoing civil war. More busy with conflict than governing, public officials failed to provide the necessary repairs on the dams.

Moreover, climate change not only increases precipitation but also hinders the environment’s ability to withstand heavy rainfall. In Derna, the inundation of the area has washed away much of the soil, which would have helped absorb some of the precipitation. The ground in and around Derna has been left hard, cracked, and stripped of vegetation. Due to these conditions, very little water was retained in the ground, worsening the flooding. Globally, similar conditions must be prevented if flooding events like the one in Libya are to be curbed. 

Libya is far from the only place where the infrastructure is inadequate in the face of increasingly heavy rains. Most urban areas around the world, even those in rich countries with the resources to adapt like the United States, have not created infrastructure nor correctly supported the local environment to prevent extreme flooding. Globally, urban planning must now be rapidly modified to account for increasing precipitation.

Making the ground more permeable is the most impactful way urban planning can help reduce extreme flooding. One way this can be achieved is through the incorporation of permeable pavement. Using this type technique allows water to pass through porous paved surfaces into groundwater stores instead of overwhelming the local drainage systems. Further, creating more green spaces, including green roofs, trees, parks, and rain gardens, all increase the permeability of the ground. When the ground can absorb more water, flooding events like the one in Libya may be prevented.

Get Involved:

To help Libyan flood victims you can donate to UNICEF, International Rescue Community, or Doctors Without Borders.


Sophia Larson

Sophia Larson is a recent graduate of Barnard College at Columbia University. She previously worked as the Assistant Editor on the 2021 book Young People of the Pandemic. She has also participated as a writer and editor at several student news publications, including “The UMass Daily Collegian” and “Bwog, Columbia Student News.”

What India’s Successful Moon Landing Means for Space Exploration

India is now the fourth country to land on the moon, and its lunar rover is making some big waves in space exploration.

The Chandrayaan-3 lunar exploration craft was launched from the south of India on July 14. Sky News. CC BY-SA-NC 2.0

On August 23, the Indian Space Research Organization (ISRO) landed its Chandrayaan-3 craft near the moon’s south pole, marking both the country’s first ever moon landing and the world’s first on that specific lunar region. Not only has this achievement finally placed India among the ranks of other space exploring nations, but has also made it one of only four countries to land a craft on the moon. The location of the craft’s landing near the unexplored south pole is significant given the multiple failed attempts by other nations to do just that in the past and stake a claim to lead future research in the area. Chandrayaan-3’s successful landing will hopefully cement the credibility of the ISRO on the international playing field and allow for continued collaboration with other foreign space agencies. During its two-week lifespan, the rover investigated the existence of frozen water deposits beneath the surface of the moon, and has made a number of surprising discoveries that orbiting crafts were unable to.

A digital rendering of the Chandrayaan-3 craft and its lunar rover. NDTV. CC BY-NC 2.0

While India’s space program was first established in 1962, it took another decade or two for the ISRO to really pick up steam. Many of the first projects involved sending satellites up into Earth’s orbit in order to map and survey the country from above, bringing telemedical and communication services to communities in remote regions. Chandrayaan, a Sanskrit term meaning “mooncraft,” is the name of India’s lunar exploration program, which made its debut between 2008 and 2009 with the Chandrayaan-1 lunar space probe, which found water deposits on the moon using various mapping techniques and reflection radiation. The next craft, launched in 2019, was comprised of an orbiter, moon lander and rover, and was actually intended to be the first to land on the south pole of the moon, but after successfully entering lunar orbit, the ISRO lost communication with the landing craft and rover before touchdown. 

Chandrayaan-3 is therefore the culmination of more than a decade of scientific research and technological development and is undoubtedly the crown jewel in India’s space program. The probe was launched on July 14 from Sriharikota Range, the country’s largest launch site located in the southern state of Andhra Pradesh, and successfully touched down on the moon on August 23. Unlike its recent predecessor, the Chandrayaan-3 traveled without an orbiter module, further cementing its intention to land on the moon and conduct experiments in situ. Additionally, while this craft was unambiguously an Indian project and creation, some of the technology on board resulted from various collaborations between the ISRO, NASA and the European Space Agency (ESA), proving once again the importance and benefits of scientific collaboration.

Students in India watch a video explaining the lunar mission. Al Jazeera. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Aside from proving that landing on the south pole of the moon is indeed possible, the information sent back by the Chandrayaan-3 rover has already resulted in some groundbreaking discoveries about the moon. One such finding has to do with understanding the temperature of lunar soil, an important factor when considering building long-lasting structures or even settlements on the moon. The Indian rover is equipped with a temperature probe that can reach nearly four inches (10 cm) beneath the surface, and found that the temperature drops 140ºF (60ºC) at a depth of just roughly 3.14 inches (8 cm). This has provided an updated and more accurate reading as compared to the data currently in use from NASA’s 2009 Lunar Reconnaissance mission, which lacked precision because it was an orbiter and therefore not actually on the lunar surface. Another interesting discovery took place in the form of a series of strange vibrations detected by the rover’s seismograph: scientists have suspected it as being a minor moonquake, although further exploration and longer-term observations would need to confirm this.

While these scientific discoveries are of course extremely significant and promising for the future of lunar exploration and research, the Chandrayaan-3 project also set a historic precedent in terms of the budget they used to complete this mission. The ISRO has a long held reputation amongst international space research circles for their ability to work on limited funds, at least compared to other major space exploration agencies. NASA, for example, has a $25.4 billion budget for the current fiscal year, while the ISRO received a measly $1.5 billion from the Indian government for the fiscal year ending this March by comparison. If that wasn’t enough, the ISRO actually spent 25% less than what it had been allocated. The Chandrayaan-3 mission cost a total of $74.3 million USD, ironically less than half of the budget that director Christopher Nolan had to make Interstellar, his award winning film about space travel.

The actual Chandrayaan-3 craft before it was launched into space. The Week. CC BY-SA 2.0

In addition to finally taking its place amongst the other lunar landing nations, Chandrayaan-3 has opened countless doors for both the ISRO and the space exploration community as a whole. Going forward, the example that this mission has set with regards to the resources it used as well as through the international collaboration it benefitted from. The moon’s south pole has now been unequivocally proven accessible and investigable, new information about lunar composition has been brought to light, and like all other missions into space, has helped to deepen our understanding of both the universe and ourselves.


Tanaya Vohra

Tanaya is an undergraduate student pursuing a major in Public Health at the University of Chicago. She's lived in Asia, Europe and North America and wants to share her love of travel and exploring new cultures through her writing.

5 Historical Epidemics that Changed the World

Disease outbreaks are inherent to a populous, globalized world.

Doctors and nurses in biohazard suits during the 1918 Spanish Flu epidemic. National Museum of Health and Medicine. CC0.

Pandemics have been a part of the human story since the agricultural revolution in 10,000 BC. Agriculture gave people the ability to create more food than they ever had before, which meant that the human population soared. People began packing together and settling down in large communities without modern sanitation, creating the ideal conditions for the spread of disease. As time went on, larger and larger communities established extensive trading networks with the ability to spread disease across continents. 

With each disease outbreak, humanity has developed better defenses and practices to help prevent catastrophic losses. However, as long as population sizes continue to rise and the global community becomes ever more interconnected, worldwide pandemics will always be something that humanity must contend with. 

This trend towards an increasingly populous and interconnected world is what fueled the global sweep of the COVID-19 pandemic. As Amesh Adalja, MD, a senior scholar at Johns Hopkins Center for Health Security said, “Viruses used to spread at the speed of a steamboat. Now, they can spread at the speed of a jet. In that sense, we’re more at risk.” The only way to adapt to the expanding threat of disease is to learn from the past and prepare for the trends of the future. Below is a list of some of the most devastating pandemics in history and how humanity’s response to disease changed because of them.

1. The Bubonic Plague 

14th Century CE

The plague of Florence, 1348. Boccacio’s Decam Wellcome. CC-BY-4.0.

Also known as the Black Death, the Bubonic Plague is the most notorious pandemic in history. It is believed to have killed between 30–50% of the European population in the 14th century, anywhere between 75 million and 200 million people. The Bubonic Plague is also thought to have killed 25 million people in Asia and Northern Africa at the time. The Black Death is known to have an incredibly high mortality rate, killing between 30-100% of those afflicted depending on the manner of infection. 

The Bubonic Plague spread globally as a result of the Silk Road, which connected the world through trade networks. Rodents carrying fleas infected with the plague were easy stow-aways in trading caravans and vessels. This is one of the first instances where globalization caused a deadly, widespread disease outbreak. 

At the time, the Black Death was thought to be the result of a combination of bad air, an imbalance in the body’s fluids or “humors,” and the wrath of God. Treatments included potions, fumigations, bloodletting, pastes, animal cures and religious cures. Persecution of minority groups was also common, particularly the Jewish population, who became a scapegoat for the suffering caused by the plague. Despite the outlandish and sometimes brutal practices of the 14th century, one method developed in the wake of the Black Death has proved incredibly effective: quarantine. Though, like today, many medieval citizens did not abide by quarantine practices, implementation of — to use a contemporary term — social distancing was one of the few effective practices to slow the spread of the Bubonic Plague.

2. Tuberculosis

7,000 BC – present day

A sick woman lies on a balcony with death standing over her, representing tuberculosis. Richard Tennant Cooper. CC-BY-4.0.

The sheer scope of tuberculosis in human history is almost difficult to fathom. Tuberculosis in humans can be traced back 9,000 years to Atlit Yam, a city now under the Mediterranean Sea, where archeologists found the disease in the bodies of a mother and child buried together. Tuberculosis, which has gone by many names throughout time, including “the white death” in the 1700s and “consumption” in the 1800s, is one of humanity’s great enemies. According to the CDC, from the 1600s–1800s, Tuberculosis was responsible for 25% of all deaths. 

Today, vaccines and antibiotics are available to prevent and treat tuberculosis. These developments in tuberculosis treatments saved 74 million lives between 2000 and 2021. However, despite this breakthrough in modern medicine, a total of 1.6 million people died from tuberculosis in 2021 according to the World Health Organization. Over 80% of these deaths come from low and middle income countries. Modern medicine means that Tuberculosis is treatable, but these treatments are not universally accessible. In a globalized world, access to healthcare cannot be a first world luxury if outbreaks are to be prevented. 

3. The Columbian Exchange

1492–1800 CE

Spanish imperialists conquer the Americas. Wilfredor. CC-BY-SA.

The Columbian Exchange is a massive interchange of people, animals, plants, and diseases that took place between Eastern and Western Hemispheres after Columbus’ arrival in the Americas in 1492. This process introduced a number of foreign diseases that Native Americans had no immunity to, whose toll reached genocidal proportions, killing between 80–95% of Indigenous Americans within 100–150 years of Columbus’ first landing. Some of the diseases that plagued the Native Americans include smallpox, measles, influenza, chickenpox, the bubonic plague, typhus, scarlet fever, pneumonia and malaria. European imperialism is to blame for the catastrophic spread of disease to the Indigenous population.

4. The Spanish Flu

1918–1919 CE

Infected patients were isolated during the 1918 Spanish Flu pandemic. Jim Forest. CC-BY-NC-ND 2.0.

After WWI, global contact and poor sanitary conditions during the war caused a worldwide outbreak of the H1N1 influenza virus, known at the time as the Spanish Flu. 500 million people were infected, one third of the world’s population at the time. Of those infected, 50 million people died worldwide, including 675,000 people in the United States. 

This pandemic led to a number of medical innovations still in use today. One of which is the widespread use of masks to prevent the spread of disease. The Spanish Flu pandemic also led to innovations in vaccine technology and spurred our understanding of genes and the chemicals that encode them.

5. AIDS Epidemic

1981-1990s

Protestors march against the stigma caused by the AIDs epidemic. NIH History Office. CC0.

HIV originally jumped from chimpanzees to humans in the early ‘80s, most likely due to human hunters coming into contact with chimpanzee blood. As a result, 84 million people have been infected globally and 40 million people have died. The AIDS epidemic is notorious for the resulting stigmatization of the LGBTQ+ community, which were greatly, though not uniquely, affected by the disease. Epidemics throughout history, since the Bubonic Plague, have caused hysteria and scapegoating, a flaw in human nature that must be quelled. 

Since the 1980s incredible strides have been made in the treatment of HIV and AIDS. As of 2021, 38.4 million people were living with HIV without it progressing to AIDS (when deadly symptoms appear) due to modern treatments. The treatment for HIV is taking daily antiretroviral therapy (ART), which is a cocktail of different HIV medicines. This treatment can allow people to live with HIV for decades without it progressing to AIDS.


Sophia Larson

Sophia Larson is a recent graduate of Barnard College at Columbia University. She previously worked as the Assistant Editor on the 2021 book Young People of the Pandemic. She has also participated as a writer and editor at several student news publications, including “The UMass Daily Collegian” and “Bwog, Columbia Student News.”

An LGBTQ+ Wedding in India Challenges Sikh Tradition

Criticism of a same-sex Indian wedding in Punjab inspires advocacy for LGBTQ+ rights.

LGBTQ+ Protest in India. Ramesh Lalwani. CC BY 2.0

On 18 September, Dimple and Manisha — a same-sex couple — were married in a Sikh temple in the northern state of Punjab, India. Currently, same-sex marriages are not recognized by the Indian legal system because of the country’s laws that define marriage as the union between a man and woman. Because of this, the wedding has been declared, “unnatural and contrary to Sikh ethics,” by priest Giani Raghbir Singh, despite adherence to all the traditional Sikh rituals between a bride and groom. The event has made headlines in the northern state of Punjab, where it has resonated with those advocating for LGBTQ+ rights.

The wedding has been criticized by some religious leaders who believe that despite a commitment to Sikh traditions, the union is ultimately a “severe moral and religious violation.” This has sparked controversy with LGBTQ+ activists who, in the last decade, have made significant advances in extending LGBTQ+ rights. In 2018, India’s highest court overturned the criminalization of same-sex relations, a major milestone for the LGBTQ+ community that helped to reduce both legal and social discrimination. However, the central government still remains opposed to same-sex marriage, and is supported in this by many of the country’s major religious lobby groups — Hindu, Muslim, Christian and Sikh. Important Sikh religious leaders in the past have described homosexuality as, “against the Sikh religion,” and “totally against the laws of nature.”

Echoing these beliefs, Sikhism’s highest priest, Giani Raghbir Singh, found that the union between the two women was in violation of the religious code of conduct. Priest Hardev Singh, who conducted the marriage, has been removed from his position and may face more punitive measures for his involvement. However, Dimple, as a practicing Sikh, insisted he marry following Sikh rituals. The couple had a traditional wedding; Dimple dressed in traditional Sikh garb with customary flowers on his turban while Manisha wore a tunic, salwar bottoms, a silk scarf and red bangles. Because of the dedication of the couple to being married in a traditional Sikh ceremony, the reaction that they’ve received has left a bit of a blurred line between whether there is opposition to the LGBTQ+ community or traditions that it deviates from.

The overturning of section 377, a colonial-era law that categorized gay sex as an “unnatural offense,” was been most contested by religious groups. The judges involved in overturning this judgment have made statements reading that, “Criminalizing carnal intercourse is irrational, arbitrary, and manifestly unconstitutional,” while religious organizations have found the ruling to be shameful. Similar to India, Uganda has similar laws that date back to the colonial period. More recently, Ugandan president Yoweri Museveni signed the Anti-homosexuality act criminalizing same-sex conduct, which punishes offenders with life imprisonment or the death penalty for “aggravated homosexuality.” At All Saints’ Cathedral in Kampala, homosexuality is viewed as a sin that is against the “order of God.” Museveni, rooted in his Anglican faith, says the law prescribes rehabilitation for homosexuals to change their sexual orientation. Unlike Uganda, India appears to be more progressive in its approach to LGBTQ+ rights, especially in the marriage of Dimple and Manisha. Their wedding has not been deemed a felony, and although it is being investigated on the basis of religious violations that may invalidate the legitimacy of the marriage, the couple will not be condemned to prison or death.


Currently in the process of hearing arguments in favor of same-sex marriage, India has seen petitions regarding the Special Marriage Act of 1954. This act was amended to allow for marriage between couples from different castes or religions and petitioners have argued that it can be extended to LGBTQ+ citizens. However, the Modi government still argues that same-sex marriage represents an “urban elitist view” and has to keep in mind the views of religious denominations before making a decisive decision. The influence of religious traditions in India has been a significant factor contributing to the issues faced in the process of legalizing some LGBTQ+ rights, highlighting the indistinct line drawn between beliefs and social progress.


Mira White

Mira is a student at Brown University studying international and public affairs. Passionate about travel and language learning, she is eager to visit each continent to better understand the world and the people across it. In her free time she perfects her French, hoping to someday live in France working as a freelance journalist or in international affairs.

Indonesia's Most Dangerous Job: Mining in an Active Volcano

The mesmerizing sulfur-induced blue flames of Indonesia’s Mount Ijen attract hundreds of tourists every night, but mask one of the most dangerous jobs in the world: sulfur mining.

Sulfur miners of Mount Ijen. Candra Firmansyah. CC BY-SA 4.0. 

Sulphur-induced blue flames are nothing more than a mining by-product, but they have turned Indonesia’s Mount Ijen into a popular tourist attraction. Lured in by the magical phenomenon, I joined a tour group and hiked up the volcano in the hopes of getting a glimpse of the beautiful fire. But the shocking truth of what I discovered was far from magical. Sulfur miners were working in the crater. Slaving away among the fire and smoke, they wore no special clothing nor eye protection. Some did not even have gas masks. Watching the men was heart-rending, and made the blue flames seem completely insignificant. The reality of Mount Ijen is that sulfur miners work everyday in the most unforgiving environment in the world.

Blue flames at Mount Ijen. Thomas Fuhrmann. CC BY-SA 4.0.

Mount Ijen, in Indonesia, is an active volcano situated on East Java, the closest island to the holiday-maker hotspot of Bali. Possessing unique characteristics, the views at Mount Ijen are otherworldly. The volcanic crater holds the largest highly acidic lake in the world, which beams with a vibrant, almost inviting turquoise blue. Above the lake are vivid yellow rocks that have been stained as a result of sulfur gasses condensing.

Mount Ijen. Taylor Girhiny. Used with the author’s permission.

While spectacular to see, many dangers lurk in the volcano. Aside from the unpredictable volcanic eruptions, earthquakes are common and have been known to cause landslides in the crater. There was even an earthquake in 2020 that triggered a seiche-type tsunami in the acid lake. The seismic activity caused the mountain to belch poison gas and generated a three-meter wave that swept across the crater,, killing a sulfur miner.

Despite these dangers, the sulfur has drawn miners to the volcano since 1968 and has become a trade passed down through families ever since. Known locally as the ‘devil’s gold’, it is considered a commodity worth high risk. Not only do miners risk a quick death while mining, but they also experience long-term health issues and have an average life expectancy of just 50 years old.

In the dead of night, when the air is at its coolest, sulfur extraction commences. Miners start by hiking the 2000 feet incline, the equivalent of two eiffel towers, before descending into the crater. At this point, the sulfuric smell of rotten egg takes over, making it hard to breathe. Pipes that travel below the surface provide access to the sulfur. The miners use fire to heat the ground, causing the sulfur to liquidize and trickle through the pipework onto the ground outside. Left to cool and dry, the ‘devil’s gold’ takes shape in the form of rich, yellow crystalized rocks.

Melted sulfur crystallizing. Taylor Girhiny. Used with the author’s permission.

During the heating process, large clouds of harmful gas burst out from beneath the arid, rocky terrain. Each thick, opaque cloud swallows everything in its path, causing a complete whiteout. Unable to see even one meter in front of them, miners are left sightless until the miasma disperse. The atmosphere was so harsh that my throat tightened up and I was coughing after just 10 minutes in the crater. Daily exposure to these toxic fumes leaves miners with life-long respiratory issues. One miner, Udi, explained to me that his own father became blind due to repeated exposure to the fumes and, despite seeing the suffering in his family, has no choice but to follow the same line of work. 

Handmade carrier full of mined sulfur. Eva Adorisio.

Once the sulfur has been processed, it must be carried out of the volcanic crater. A steep path consisting of unsteady rocks is the only way out and, with no technology to aid in their efforts, miners must physically transport every piece of the precious material. They precariously balance up to 170 pounds of sulfur, more than their bodyweight, on their handmade shoulder carriers. Without proper back support, miners suffer back problems and often swelling in the shoulders.

Sulfur produced at Mount Ijen is sold on and used in a variety of products including detergents and cosmetics, and is even used to whiten sugar. According to Udi, one kilogram of sulfur is sold for 1000 Indonesian Rupiah ($0.065). If a miner sells a full load of sulfur that may have taken all night to produce, he will make 75,000 Rupiah (approximately $5). Surprisingly, this makes sulfur mining one of the better paid jobs in this remote area of Java. With high poverty rates, it is clear why locals risk their lives to sustain a livelihood.

Miner selling miniature baskets of sulfur as souvenirs for tourists. Eva Adorisio.

The shocking reality is that local men are putting their lives on the line for what most in the West would consider pocket money. Witnessing them work tirelessly in the most inhumane conditions is an inconceivable sight, yet has become a spectacle for tourists to gawk at. The promise of stunning blue flames may sound alluring, but in truth Mount Ijen is a merciless place that no one should have to call work.

In 2017, Ijen Assistance raised $15,000 for relief work in the region from a music video following Bas, a sulfur miner, and his family. 

Novo Amor & Lowswimmer - Terraform (official video)

TO GET INVOLVED

Providing aid after natural disasters, Islamic Relief has been working in Indonesia since 2000. After the earthquakes of 2006 and 2009, the organization responded immediately, distributing emergency supplies and later rebuilding a hospital and school. They also work to reduce the effects of poverty and have a variety of development projects across Indonesia.

Currently, there are no organizations working directly to improve the conditions for sulfur miners at Mount Ijen. Despite previous campaigns raising awareness and money, such as the ‘Terraform’ music video, miners continue to work in the same harsh conditions.


Eva Adorisio

Eva is an avid traveler and writer from Bristol, England. In her writing, she aims to show the true nature of what a place is really like. Her Italian roots have led to a love of food, culture and language. She also spends her time staying active out in nature and is always searching for the next adventure. 

Will the Paris Olympics Be the Green Games?

In preparation for the Olympic Games, Paris invests in sustainable resources to minimize environmental impact.

Paris Olympic Games. Nicolas Michaud. CC BY 2.0

Keeping up the momentum of its previous environmental ambitions, Paris has committed to complete environmental sustainability for the 2024 Olympic Games. This greener approach will be made possible through careful consideration of the event’s chosen venues, operations (catering and accommodation) and transportation.

As a city renowned for its architecture, Paris has addressed one major change that it can make to the games — using existing infrastructure to host events. As of now, 95% of the chosen venues are pre-existing  or temporary structures. 

The competition zones are divided into two main areas both inside and outside of Paris’ center. Universally connected by the Seine, 80% of the venues are within a 10 kilometer distance of the Olympic and Paralympic Zones, allowing 85% of athletes to stay less than 30 minutes away from their venue. Through the use of existing facilities that require minimal transportation, Paris can host an event that will aid in its goal to, hopefully, halve a previous carbon footprint of 3.86 million tons. The French aim for a decrease in emissions compared to that of the Tokyo Games in 2020. With Tokyo’s post-game estimation of 2.16 million tons of carbon dioxide, Paris has committed to a limit of 1.65 million tons and to offset any indirect impact with climate-positive projects. Meeting carbon emission goals for the games may prove challenging because of these indirect impacts, primarily the substantial travel emissions generated by spectators. This seems a daunting task when compared to the Tokyo games which managed to achieve low net emissions because of the lack of spectators due to the COVID-19 pandemic

In accordance with the city’s holistic sustainability vision, Paris has placed emphasis on the importance of green catering. As an event that is responsible for serving 13 million meals, embracing sustainable food sources and partnerships now will set the city up for environmental prosperity even after the games.

In recognizing the environmental impact of certain food sources and resulting waste, Paris has quantified its objectives to reduce its carbon footprint. This eco-conscious catering approach is made up of 6 commitments: two times more plant-based food, 100% certified food (food that is sourced, produced and consumed in a responsible way), reduced plastic consumption, recycling of all uneaten food, reuse of all equipment and structures and hiring 10% of workers from professional integration programs. Athletes and spectators will have a wide variety of plant-based options at their disposal, with 60% of food and beverages available to spectators being vegetarian. With 80% of the total food supply being sourced from within France’s borders, the alternatives to traditional cuisine should hardly be noticed as food will be prepared by culinary professionals who are familiar with creating meals that make the best use of the seasonal menu. Expertise from the chefs and localized sourcing will leave little room for waste across both food and its packing. In its drive to cut down on single-use plastic, Paris’ catering teams will exercise the use of plastic alternatives and employ a “reducing, reusing, replacing and recycling” concept on drink and food containers. 

Paris’ goal to minimize waste generation and increase localized food sourcing encourages a healthier lifestyle that will extend beyond the games and become a beacon for environmental change. Even during the 2016 Olympic Games in Rio de Janeiro, plastic in the Guanabara Bay made it difficult for sailing teams to compete. This problem only intensified after the games when produced waste registered at over 18,500 tons, most being non-renewables. Despite this, some of the food waste after those games was utilized by an Italian chef, who created meals for the homeless.

The Paris Olympics will not focus only on breaking athletic records, but on breaking new ground for environmental action, particularly in sustainable event management. Through reliance on a well-developed, effective public transit system and localizing operations within France to minimize travel distance, Paris is showcasing a dedication to environmental impact that will extend beyond the games. If successful, this will serve as an inspiring example for how a large-scale international event can align with sustainability goals to change not just experiences, but lifestyles.


Mira White

Mira is a student at Brown University studying international and public affairs. Passionate about travel and language learning, she is eager to visit each continent to better understand the world and the people across it. In her free time she perfects her French, hoping to someday live in France working as a freelance journalist or in international affairs.

Barbie Across Borders

Around the world, countries censure or celebrate Barbie, a film that violates localized beliefs about feminist expression and the satirization of patriarchy.

Barbie Movie Billboard. Brecht Bug. CC BY 2.0

“Barbie” premiered around the world late last month, quickly becoming a global sensation in the weeks that led up to its release. The film follows protagonist Barbie as she ventures on a journey of self-discovery that causes her to question the values  of a patriarchal society. The United States, China, Saudi Arabia and other Middle Eastern countries had mixed reactions to the film, ranging from dissatisfaction with its promotion of women's empowerment to the celebration of female independence and capability. 

The film has caused discourse in China, where movies still include considerably outdated gender roles. Media like Mr. Six and Gentlemen From Eastern 8th are reminders of the sexist normalcies that still exist in Chinese entertainment and society, including the objectification and oppression of women in the roles that they play. Barbie has been praised and disparaged for calling attention to these instances of gender inequality with many women appreciating the film’s recognition of such an “objective reality” and depiction of strong rather than objectified women. In recent years, China’s involvement in the political landscape of feminism has been backsliding, with rejections of sexual harassment lawsuits and arrests of those protesting for greater feminist representation. Because of this, China is not entirely dissimilar to the conservative politics in the United States, both of which believe that the film succeeds at emasculating men. Regardless, across the U.S., the debut of the film was largely met by fans with outfits of pink and reviews acknowledging the film as a “cinematic and emotional masterpiece.” Not long after, fans of the film in China also began to express support for the film by wearing pink and complimented the film as the best expression of feminism

Latin and South American countries have also embraced pink, specifically through food. Vendors in Mexico and Guatemala have sold pink tacos while Venezuela, Chile and El Salvador have created arepas with beet dough for pink coloring. Support for the film has been widespread across the region, as it has reinvigorated radical public protest and prompted movements like “Barbie Buscadora.”

Across countries in the Middle East, “Barbie” has been banned as it was found to promote subversive elements that distort the values of society, namely the protection of public ethics and social traditions. Because of loyalty to these values, the most severe restrictions were issued in Kuwait and Lebanon, where the film was completely banned from theaters as opposed to the more targeted censorship of scenes that challenged social norms around male guardianship and homosexuality. As cultures with heavy importance placed on gender roles within a family, those with a vested interest in the current system find their values contradicted by the film’s feminism. In Lebanon, Mohammed Mortada asked that the film be banned saying that it, “challenges the guidance of the father … ridiculed the role of mothers.” 

Despite aversion to the film’s release in Kuwait and Lebanon, “Barbie” premiered in Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates. With men and women alike flooding theaters to view the film, many felt that the movie had important lessons for everyone regarding their  roles in the world. Saudi Arabia’s perception of the film has reflected the broader changes occurring in the country’s cultural and entertainment landscape. As a country that is steeped in patriarchal gender traditions, specifically repressive guardianship and the imposition of domestic responsibilities on women, the immersion of Western-influenced media into the nation is expected to be regulated. However, the current reception of the film suggests a society capable of combining tradition and progress.

“Barbie” has brought forward an interplay between cultural normalities and evolving societal attitudes across a variety of countries. In some ways, the film could be perceived as a step towards female empowerment, while conversely approached with caution to avoid disrupting traditional values. As a testament to how global media can challenge and align perspectives, the film is one that illustrates the ability to challenge universal themes despite differences in local interpretations. The global tendency in the 21st century has been to encourage the feminist movement across progressive and conservative countries alike, and with such a broad range of perspectives, it’s a film that has caused considerable ripple effects.


Mira White

Mira is a student at Brown University studying international and public affairs. Passionate about travel and language learning, she is eager to visit each continent to better understand the world and the people across it. In her free time she perfects her French, hoping to someday live in France working as a freelance journalist or in international affairs.

Ink Under Fire: The Ongoing Struggle Against Literary Censorship

More books are being banned than ever before, posing a real threat to the universal right to freedom of expression.

A demonstrator holds up a sign against book bans in the US. Craig Bailey. CC BY-SA 2.0

For decades, authors have written about the banning of books and censoring of literature in the context of dystopian societies dominated by harsh autocratic rulers. In a world that values the free exchange of ideas and uses the written word as a means to express and share ideas, beliefs and knowledge, the act of banning books stands as a paradoxical and deeply contentious practice. Nevertheless, 2022 saw a record breaking 2,571 unique titles banned in the US alone, compared to just 566 in 2019, not to mention the handful of other countries around the world with much stronger and infamous censorship policies. Banning books raises questions about the limits of authority, the boundaries of creativity and in some cases, the very nature of truth itself — without literature, those in power can freely rewrite history.

Almost all recently banned books have been targeted due to their inclusion of LGBTQ+ characters or racial themes. Mark Mulligan. CC BY-SA 2.0

Unfortunately, it is not just books that have come under fire: Many library workers across the US and beyond have reported being harassed or even threatened with legal action and violence if they do not take certain titles off the shelves. While some books have been singled out due to racist language and themes — Mark Twain’s “The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn”, Toni Morrison’s “Beloved” and Ralph Ellison’s “The Invisible Man”, to name a few — the undeniable majority of complaints have come from conservatives who take issue with literature that touches on LGBTQ+ or contemporary racial justice topics. This latter category includes books like “Gender Queer” by Maia Kobabe, “The Hate U Give” by Angie Thomas and even the Pulitzer Prize-winning 1619 Project, which chronicles the legacy of American slavery. While some books have returned to the shelves after being banned, many have been put to the side indefinitely, setting dangerous restrictions on the types of history and social commentary available for public consumption. 

A display of books that have been banned over the past two years. Getty Images. CC BY-NC 2.0

Despite the obvious challenges this poses, writers have continued to find ways to defy unfair censorship laws and continue to publish their work. A recent example occurred when internationally renowned author Margaret Atwood published a new, fireproof edition of her award winning book “The Handmaid’s Tale”. First published in 1985, this novel has been banned in countries all over the world for reasons including its sexual content, prominent LGBTQ+ characters and anti-Christian themes. In a nod to the practice of book burning as a popular form of literary censorship, Atwood wrote in The Atlantic that trying to stop young people from reading “The Handmaid’s Tale” will, “only make them want to read it more,” and wished her critics luck. The special edition was auctioned off for $130,000 by Sotheby’s, the proceeds of which went to PEN America for their campaigns to fight literary bans.

82-year-old author Margaret Atwood aiming a flamethrower at her inflammable book, The Handmaid’s Tale. NPR. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Given the increased democratization of information due to the internet, Atwood’s words raise the crucial question of whether banning books is actually still an effective way to remove literature from the public sphere. In an effort to counter the effects of such bans, publishing houses, libraries and some academic institutions have compiled online databases of banned books to ensure that they are still available to the public. Another counter-movement saw PEN America join forces with National Youth Poet Laureate Amanda Gorman to challenge the banning of her inauguration poem “The Hill We Climb” at an elementary school in Florida. Even in the face of these efforts, however, the digital domain is still not safe from literary censorship. Just last year, a number of online library and reading apps used widely by students during the pandemic were targeted by parents who were uncomfortable with the titles available to their children; again, the reasons cited revolved around the inclusion of pro-LGBTQ+ themes and supposedly anti-religious content.

Banned books are made available to children at this school in the UK. St Benedict’s School. CC BY-NC 2.0

From the historic book burning bonfires to the rise of online censorship, the conflict over banned books reflects a struggle for control over narratives that challenge conventions and expand our understanding of the world. Literature has the power to challenge norms and provoke curiosity, but doing so has often put it at odds with those seeking to maintain the status quo. In a society driven by information and ideas, the censorship of literature raises a critical question: What does freedom mean if we are denied the opportunity to explore a diversity of perspectives, no matter how discomforting or provocative they may be?


Tanaya Vohra

Tanaya is an undergraduate student pursuing a major in Public Health at the University of Chicago. She's lived in Asia, Europe and North America and wants to share her love of travel and exploring new cultures through her writing.

Afghanistan’s Only Female Tour Guide Hosts Virtual Tours

This is the story of 24-year-old Fatima Haidari’s love and dedication to her country — from 3,000 miles away.

Bamyan Province, Afghanistan. Untamed Borders.

Meet Fatima Haidari: a 24-year-old guide who offers virtual tours of her country, Afghanistan. Forced to flee by the Taliban, Fatima now resides in Milan, Italy and provides a detailed tourist experience through Zoom of the Afghan city of Herat — taking visitors through sites such as the Citadel and the Central Blue Mosque.

Before the Taliban seized power in August 2021, Fatima worked as a local tour guide in Herat, using the job as a means to pay for her education, where she studied journalism and mass communication at university. Fatima is also the first ever female tour guide in Afghanistan, recognized in headlines in 2020. While she is no longer able to offer those in-person tours of her homeland, she continues to do what she can to show Herat off to the world — not just because the city is a beautiful and interesting place to explore, but because she doesn’t want outsiders to associate Afghanistan only with war and terror. Rather, its culture and history are what matter to her, and should take center stage.
But her passion and love for her country isn’t the only place Fatima’s heart lies. Growing up in the mountains in the central region of Ghor, Fatima was the youngest of seven children and was denied a rightful education, because she was a woman and because her family lacked the money. She worked for three years, making items such as traditional clothes to earn her way into an education, and was finally able to convince her parents to allow her to go to university in Herat in 2019, where she studied journalism.

Fatima in Herat. Untamed Borders.

Through years of hard work, Fatima was able to get an education. But many girls back home in Afghanistan do not have the same privilege. Considered one of the lucky ones to have fled, Fatima will use a portion of the money she earns from the Afghan virtual tours to donate to a women's education charity, which currently operates in Afghanistan.

Fatima partners with Untamed Borders — a travel operator dedicated to taking groups to some of the most interesting and inaccessible places — to make these virtual tours possible. The approximately 1.5 hour tour will take guests to see the 1,400-year-old Great Mosque, the Herat Citadel and through the city’s bazaars and traditional teahouses, while Fatima narrates stories about Afghanistan that focus on its people, culture and extensive history. 

But this event is a milestone itself. There has never been a virtual tour of Herat, and as Afghanistan’s first-ever female tour guide, this is a groundbreaking step to inspire other women in the nation. As Fatima says, she wants to be a changer, not a victim.

Fatima leading a virtual group tour. Untamed Borders.

And, of course, there can be no frank and open discussion about the people of Afghanistan without mentioning its women. Not only are they denied an education, Fatima has said the reascendant Taliban forces women to marry and perpetrates sexual or physical abuse against them. Things are more expensive for women, even though they are losing their jobs and forced to become housewives. By shining a light on the current situation in Afghanistan, Fatima is able to talk about her homeland while also spreading awareness to those able to make a difference.

Fatima’s next virtual tour will take place on September 12. Guests are able to book through Untamed Borders, and tickets will cost $60. 

Through her own personal experiences and ties to a country seized by tyranny, Fatima hopes to share what makes Afghanistan so distinct and worthy of exploration while also fighting for justice, so that the women there will grow up knowing what it’s like to go to school. 


Michelle Tian

Michelle is a senior at Boston University, majoring in journalism and minoring in philosophy. Her parents are first-generation immigrants from China, so her love for different cultures and traveling came naturally at a young age. After graduation, she hopes to continue sharing important messages through her work.

Oppenheimer’s Critical Omission: The Relocation of Hispanic and Indigenous Populations

Intricate but incomplete, Christopher Nolan’s Oppenheimer disregards the true history of Hispanic and Indigenous populations in New Mexico.

Trinity Nuclear Test. U.S. National Archives and Records Administration. CC0.

A picturesque aquamarine sky hangs lazily above a dusty, deserted New Mexico landscape. Through a tangle of brush, a lanky Robert Oppenheimer, played by Irish actor Cillian Murphy, emerges on horseback. His eyes feast on the remote plains and he declares that besides a local boys’ school and “Indian” burial grounds, Los Alamos will be the perfect site to construct the world’s first atomic weapons.

These momentous decisions and moral quandaries are explored in Christopher Nolan’s Oppenheimer. Grossing $450 million in its first fourteen days at the box office, the 1940s period piece has cemented itself as a somewhat unlikely cultural icon. Gone are the days of Nolan’s slightly fantastical films — notably Inception (2010) and Interstellar (2014). Recently, the Academy Award-nominated director has been dipping his toes in the realism of period pieces, beginning with Dunkirk (2017) and continuing with Oppenheimer.
Nolan’s portrayal of Oppenheimer — based on the biography American Prometheus: The Triumph and Tragedy of J. Robert Oppenheimer by Kai Bird and Martin J. Sherwin — is deliberately layered. The audience travels alongside Oppenheimer over the course of his life for three hours. On one hand, Oppenheimer’s humanity is a gut punch: viewers experience his mistress’s death, his tumultuous marriage, and his gradual realization of the death and destruction his scientific creation has wrought. On the other, viewers gaze upon the physicist with disgust: the man was, as he infamously declared himself, a destroyer of worlds.

J. Robert Oppenheimer. U.S. National Archives and Records Administration. CC0.

The use of the first atomic bomb by the United States to defeat Japan and win World War II is one of the signal events of the modern era, arguably helping to prevent a land invasion of Japan that could have killed millions. Despite the magnitude of this technical and geopolitical accomplishment, the legacy of the destruction of Hiroshima and Nagasaki will forever cast a negative light on the United States government and the team of nuclear physicists involved in the development of the atomic bomb. While Nolan acknowledges this complex legacy, his portrayal of key elements of the Manhattan Project and the Los Alamos Laboratory obscures another historical moral quandary. The remote sandy vistas in Nolan’s cinematography smother the true story of Los Alamos and the Trinity nuclear test.

The reality, omitted from Nolan’s film, is that during the Manhattan Project the U.S. Government forcibly relocated Indigenous and Hispanic populations that resided in Los Alamos, New Mexico. Contrary to the movie’s dialogue, there were two dozen homesteaders and a ranch occupying the land that was taken by the government for the project, in addition to the school mentioned by Oppenheimer. The government seized the land and offered the owners compensation based on an appraisal of the land — an amount of compensation that the government itself thought was fit. Some homesteaders, however, objected to the compensation offered by the government, considering it far too little. Many in the Federal Government would eventually come to agree with them; in 2004, decades after the original compensation, Congress established a $10 million fund to pay back the homesteaders. 
Moreover, it was difficult for the homesteaders to object in the first place due to the language barrier. Most homesteaders spoke Spanish, while government officials often only communicated in English. Some families were even held at gunpoint as they were forced to leave with no explanation, due to the project’s secrecy. Livestock and other animals on property were shot or let loose. Livelihoods were destroyed along with these animals.

Los Alamos Colloquium of Physicists. Los Alamos National Laboratory. CC0.

The element of secrecy surrounding the Manhattan Project and the Trinity nuclear test disrupted the lives of families living directly on Los Alamos land. But, for the 13,000 New Mexicans living within a fifty mile radius of the Trinity test (in Jornada del Muerto, New Mexico), the nuclear explosion truly seemed to be the end of the world. Because the mushroom cloud was visible from up to 200 miles away from the test site, and no civilians knew tests were being conducted, fear erupted in concert with the explosion. 

Nolan’s film not only fails to indicate that homesteaders on Los Alamos were forcibly relocated — it also fails to mention that civilians from northern to southern New Mexico were exposed to harmful radiation from the bomb. Radioactive fallout initially contaminated water and livestock, and in turn, civilians. There were no studies or treatment conducted on individuals exposed to radiation, which could have exposed the highly classified program. Those who were in the radius or downwind of the fallout became known as “downwinders,” and began to develop autoimmune diseases, chronic illness and cancer. 

Manhattan Project U.S. Map. Wikimedia Commons. CC by 3.0.

Eventually, the Hispanic American and Indigenous populations who lived in the area returned to Los Alamos to work for the project without knowing its true nature or extent. They returned as maids or as construction workers, often handling radioactive and contaminated materials without knowledge of the harm and risk of exposure. Many became economically dependent on a laboratory that posed environmental and health risks for the greater Los Alamos population. This led to struggles with physical and mental health that have continued to the present time. 

The legacy of the Manhattan Project, the Los Alamos Laboratory and the Trinity nuclear test hangs in a state of limbo. It transcends time — becoming the past, present and future for Hispanic and Indigenous populations in New Mexico. Nolan’s failure to acknowledge these populations’ displacement and unwitting contamination silences their narratives and obscures this unique patrimony. J. Robert Oppenheimer’s depiction as a thumbtack in sandy nothingness is historically inaccurate — Nolan’s cinematic depiction of desolation glosses over a more complex reality. Los Alamos was, and is, living and breathing.


Carina Cole

Carina Cole is a Media Studies student with a Correlate in Creative Writing at Vassar College. She is an avid journalist and occasional flash fiction writer. Her passion for writing overlaps with environmentalism, feminism, social justice, and a desire to travel beyond the United States. When she’s not writing, you can find her meticulously curating playlists or picking up a paintbrush.

The Dark Side of H&M's Fast Fashion Empire

As the fashion industry grapples with its environmental impact, the fast fashion brand H&M comes under scrutiny for its pollution and hazardous labor conditions.

A landfill in Russia. Wikipedia commons. CC BY-SA 4.0

Have you ever fallen in love with a dress, imagining it would exude the same style and allure as it does on a model or your favorite celebrity, only for it to be worn just once or twice before being forgotten in the depths of your closet? Many of us can relate to this experience. Interestingly, today’s average person buys 60 percent more clothing items than they did 15 years ago, but keeps them for only half as long as they used to. Waste in the fashion industry has many causes, but is often associated with fast fashion, a business strategy in which companies quickly turn around cheap imitations of high status garments to cash in on transient fads.

In the realm of fashion, vanity can lead to excessive consumption and an alarming amount of waste. Although individual choices play a role in this, it is crucial to recognize that fashion behemoths, including renowned names like H&M, Zara, and UNIQLO, often promote fast fashion trends while glossing over environmental costs to maximize profits.

The dawn of fast fashion can be pinpointed to the rapid evolution of supply chain management in the industry. Gone were the days of traditional craftsmanship, where each individual garment was lovingly designed either at home or within small workshops. Thanks to the fashion supply chain, designers could now disseminate their original creations through an intricate network of textile sourcing companies, manufacturing facilities, distribution channels, retail stores and warehousing centers. The 1960s witnessed a surge in young people embracing affordable clothing, shunning the age-old notion of sartorial grandeur. In response to this cultural shift, retailers began introducing trendy and pocket-friendly attire, consistently refreshing their offerings through the 1990s. While this innovative approach bolstered brand visibility and efficiency, it also gave rise to a notable drawback: excessive waste. Take the production of shirts and shoes, for instance; over the past five decades, production has doubled, yet three out of four of these items end up either incinerated or in landfills.

H&M at Belfast. William Murphy. CC BY-SA 2.0.

The 1990s were a turning point for brands like H&M. Originally established in 1947 by Swedish businessman Erling Persson under the name “Hennes,” the company later acquired Mauritz Widforss in 1968, a Swedish hunting and fishing store, leading to the more succinct and memorable name of H&M that we know today. Rapidly expanding across Europe, the company set its sights on global outreach by the 1980s. H&M made its first foray outside Europe with a store on New York’s 5th Avenue, positioning itself alongside myriad other fast fashion brands. Catering to a diverse consumer base, including women, men, teenagers and children, it offers an extensive range of products, from sportswear and underwear to shoes, accessories and cosmetics, all at affordable prices. With a presence in over 4,000 stores worldwide and a workforce of over 100,000 people, H&M stands as the eighth most valuable apparel brand in the world as of 2022, only trailing behind giants like Nike, ZARA, and Adidas.

However, behind H&M’s tale of success lies a daunting environmental cost. The brand’s significant contribution to waste and pollution is a matter of public concern. In 2019 alone, H&M churned out a staggering 3 billion garments, making it one of the foremost polluters in the fashion industry. The use of cheap and toxic textile dyes, coupled with the fabrics themselves, is contributing to the global warming crisis. Polyester, an artificial textile that constitutes roughly 60% of the global fiber market in 2020, is derived from fossil fuels and sheds microfibers that exacerbate the proliferation of plastic in our oceans. Although H&M promotes its use of recycled polyester, made from oil-based waste like old PET bottles or pre-existing polyester clothing, studies reveal that the recycling process is energy-intensive, and tracing the origin of recycled polyester is challenging. Surprisingly, of all the materials used by H&M, a mere 23% are recycled, even though the brand touts that 84% of its products are sourced from recycled or sustainable materials, and the criteria for a “sustainable material” remains elusive. Even H&M's acclaimed Conscious Collection, which is marketed as sustainable and has seen brisk sales, contains only a fraction of recycled materials. All of these concerns are artfully obscured by the ambiguous language of H&M’s sustainability report.

Protest against Fast Fashion. Stefan Muller. CC-BY 2.0

While acknowledging the importance of gradual change, H&M's approach to sustainability is unacceptable due to the company’s engagement in greenwashing — a disconcerting technique whereby companies overstate their actual sustainability accomplishments to divert criticism from harmful practices. A study conducted by The Changing Markets Foundation, an organization dedicated to propelling and amplifying solutions for sustainability challenges through market influence, revealed that a startling 96% of the claims in H&M's sustainability report were “unsubstantiated” and “misleading” as per guidelines. Despite the vagueness in its official report, H&M invests diligently in presenting a clear and positive image of its sustainability initiatives through vigorous social media and marketing campaigns. An example of this involves the brand’s strategic partnerships with celebrities. For instance, H&M collaborated with the former Game of Thrones actress Maisie Williams, whom the company lauded as a symbol for her generation and an influential advocate for female empowerment, sustainability and diversity. In 2020, H&M introduced “The Loop Machine,” a recycling program aimed at transforming old H&M garments into new clothing items. However, access to this program remains limited worldwide and is burdened by lengthy processing times, with hours required to recycle a single item.

Beyond its environmental impact, H&M’s massive production business model has led to serious ethical concerns, particularly regarding labor conditions. While H&M has taken some steps towards recognizing the importance of decent, meaningful jobs with fair compensation, benefits, and safe working environments free from discrimination and with the right to freedom of association, statistics paint a grim picture. During the pandemic, a staggering 89 percent of H&M workers received wages below the international poverty line. In June 2023, just a month earlier, over 4,000 Spanish employees from H&M's brands, including Other Stories and Cos, took to the streets, demanding pay raises in line with the rising cost of living and protesting increased workloads resulting from layoffs during the COVID-19 pandemic. Workers at factories producing for H&M and Best Seller also reported witnessing explosions and exposure to electrical discharge and harmful substances.

H&M Global map in 2015.Barthateslisa. CC BY-SA 4.0.

While it is true that H&M has made  progress — evident in its 2022 report with highlights such as 17 approved projects that can potentially reduce the supply chain’s CO2e production by 50,000 tonnes and an improved Fashion Transparency Index ranking — there is still much more the company must do to be ethical and go green. The root of the issue lies in its fundamentally unsustainable fast fashion model, which prioritizes cost reduction and profit maximization above all else.

Thrift Town in California. MikeR. CC BY 2.0.

On the other hand, the resale and rental industries are rising as more sustainable alternatives to fast fashion. Embracing a recycle-oriented model, they eliminate the need to extract additional resources to meet our demands. Though not as widely accepted in the world of fashion, they provide compelling alternatives for those seeking a more environmentally-conscious lifestyle. For H&M and other fast fashion brands, addressing current concerns about pollution, waste, and human rights is only a partial solution on the path to sustainability. As they continue to expand globally, new challenges will inevitably arise. The true path to progress lies in an unwavering commitment to a radical transformation of the industrial model, embracing a truly sustainable approach.

TO GET INVOLVED:

Centre for Sustainable Fashion

The Centre for Sustainable Fashion (CSF) is a research institute in the University of the Arts London's London College of Fashion. Its mission is to challenge and question the status quo in the fashion industry, driving toward a system that values and respects the planet’s ecology. Embracing Fashion Design for Sustainability, the CSF pioneers innovative approaches in academia, industry and education. Learn more about CSF here.

Fashion For Good

Fashion For Good, a platform fueled by the fashion industry, spearheads sustainable fashion innovation. Its goal is to unite the entire fashion ecosystem, transforming it into a powerful force for good. Shifting away from the linear 'take-make-waste' model, Fashion For Good advocates for a circular Good Fashion strategy, one that is restorative and regenerative by design. With its Accelerator, Scaling Program and Good Fashion Fund, the organization targets technologies and business models with immense potential to revolutionize the industry. Learn more about CSF here.


Hope Zhu

Hope is a Chinese international student at Wake Forest University in North Carolina studying sociology, statistics, and journalism. She dreams of traveling around the globe as a freelance reporter while touching on a wide range of social issues from education inequality to cultural diversity. Passionate about environmental issues and learning about other cultures, she is eager to explore the globe. In her free time, she enjoys cooking Asian cuisine, reading, and theater.