Afghanistan’s Only Female Tour Guide Hosts Virtual Tours

This is the story of 24-year-old Fatima Haidari’s love and dedication to her country — from 3,000 miles away.

Bamyan Province, Afghanistan. Untamed Borders.

Meet Fatima Haidari: a 24-year-old guide who offers virtual tours of her country, Afghanistan. Forced to flee by the Taliban, Fatima now resides in Milan, Italy and provides a detailed tourist experience through Zoom of the Afghan city of Herat — taking visitors through sites such as the Citadel and the Central Blue Mosque.

Before the Taliban seized power in August 2021, Fatima worked as a local tour guide in Herat, using the job as a means to pay for her education, where she studied journalism and mass communication at university. Fatima is also the first ever female tour guide in Afghanistan, recognized in headlines in 2020. While she is no longer able to offer those in-person tours of her homeland, she continues to do what she can to show Herat off to the world — not just because the city is a beautiful and interesting place to explore, but because she doesn’t want outsiders to associate Afghanistan only with war and terror. Rather, its culture and history are what matter to her, and should take center stage.
But her passion and love for her country isn’t the only place Fatima’s heart lies. Growing up in the mountains in the central region of Ghor, Fatima was the youngest of seven children and was denied a rightful education, because she was a woman and because her family lacked the money. She worked for three years, making items such as traditional clothes to earn her way into an education, and was finally able to convince her parents to allow her to go to university in Herat in 2019, where she studied journalism.

Fatima in Herat. Untamed Borders.

Through years of hard work, Fatima was able to get an education. But many girls back home in Afghanistan do not have the same privilege. Considered one of the lucky ones to have fled, Fatima will use a portion of the money she earns from the Afghan virtual tours to donate to a women's education charity, which currently operates in Afghanistan.

Fatima partners with Untamed Borders — a travel operator dedicated to taking groups to some of the most interesting and inaccessible places — to make these virtual tours possible. The approximately 1.5 hour tour will take guests to see the 1,400-year-old Great Mosque, the Herat Citadel and through the city’s bazaars and traditional teahouses, while Fatima narrates stories about Afghanistan that focus on its people, culture and extensive history. 

But this event is a milestone itself. There has never been a virtual tour of Herat, and as Afghanistan’s first-ever female tour guide, this is a groundbreaking step to inspire other women in the nation. As Fatima says, she wants to be a changer, not a victim.

Fatima leading a virtual group tour. Untamed Borders.

And, of course, there can be no frank and open discussion about the people of Afghanistan without mentioning its women. Not only are they denied an education, Fatima has said the reascendant Taliban forces women to marry and perpetrates sexual or physical abuse against them. Things are more expensive for women, even though they are losing their jobs and forced to become housewives. By shining a light on the current situation in Afghanistan, Fatima is able to talk about her homeland while also spreading awareness to those able to make a difference.

Fatima’s next virtual tour will take place on September 12. Guests are able to book through Untamed Borders, and tickets will cost $60. 

Through her own personal experiences and ties to a country seized by tyranny, Fatima hopes to share what makes Afghanistan so distinct and worthy of exploration while also fighting for justice, so that the women there will grow up knowing what it’s like to go to school. 


Michelle Tian

Michelle is a senior at Boston University, majoring in journalism and minoring in philosophy. Her parents are first-generation immigrants from China, so her love for different cultures and traveling came naturally at a young age. After graduation, she hopes to continue sharing important messages through her work.

ART REVIEW: Ai Wei’s New Exhibit Highlights Activism and Mass Production

Not one to shy away from political statements, Chinese artist and activist Ai Weiwei’s recent exhibition questions mass production and highlights human rights tragedies around the world.

Ai sits atop “Still Life,” one of the works presented in Making Sense consisting of 1,600 tools from the late Stone Age. Ai Weiwei Studio. CC BY-NC 2.0

Internationally renowned Chinese artist Ai Weiwei is known for his ability to present political opinions and insights through artwork that relies heavily on everyday objects, and his latest exhibit is no different. Titled “Making Sense,” the exhibit, which has been on display at London’s Design Museum since April 7 and will remain there until July 30, includes a number of Ai’s decommissioned artworks as well as a handful of new pieces. This exhibit marks the first time Ai has offered commentary on the practice of design and what it means for the value society places on objects.

Ai Weiwei pictured talking to reporters outside of his studio soon after his release from detainment in 2011. Getty Images. CC BY-SA 2.0

While Ai is most widely known as an artist, he is also an internationally recognized human rights activist due to the strong political statements he makes both through his art and his speech. He has long been openly critical of the Chinese government’s stance on the democratic process and human rights, which led to a stint under house arrest in 2010. The government claimed that he had built his Shanghai studio illegally and scheduled it to be demolished, although many believed that this was simply an excuse to further crackdown on dissent.

Ai has also regularly conducted investigations into government corruption and scandals which were covered up, resulting in his arrest in April of 2011 due to “economic crimes”. He was detained for a total of 81 days without ever being charged, and upon release, was hailed as the father of modernism in China. His clashes with the Chinese government have meant that freedom of expression and free speech are central themes to a lot of his work, and he often tries to draw parallels between his experiences in China with what he sees happening in the US, Europe, and elsewhere.

Photographs from the “Study of Perspective” collection are displayed above the stone age tools. Ed Reeve. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

In “Making Sense,” many of the works are large collections of objects both ordinary and rare, meant to probe his audience’s views on mass production and consumption, from lego bricks to stone-age tools, pottery shards to porcelain cannonballs from the Song dynasty (960 - 1279 CE). True to his activism, there are also a number of works highlighting various human rights and social justice issues, such as the poor response of the Mainland Chinese government after the Sichuan earthquake in 2008 and the ongoing refugee crisis in Southern Europe.

Among the decommissioned works in the exhibit is a collection of photographs titled “Study of Perspective,” in which only Ai’s hand is seen emerging from behind the camera, holding up his middle finger before a variety of backgrounds including the Eiffel Tower, Tiananmen Square, and the White House. Shot between 1995 and 2017, these photographs were meant to mimic those taken by tourists in front of these popular landmarks, while simultaneously presenting a sharp statement of opposition to the political institutions they represent.

A sea of donated lego bricks makes up the “Untitled (Lego Incident)” Work in the exhibit. Ed Reeve. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Another work, “Untitled (Lego Incident),” comprises hundreds of Lego pieces donated to Ai after Lego refused to sell him any of their products in 2014. He had been previously been using Lego bricks to create portraits of imprisoned human rights activists to display as part of his “@Large” exhibit displayed in the infamous prison on Alcatraz Island, but Lego blacklisted Ai, announcing that their products are not meant to be used for political messages. His response on social media resulted in these donations, with this exhibition the first time the Legos will be part of a formal production. This field of bricks lies in front of another Lego based artwork in which Ai has reinterpreted the famous Monet painting of water lilies, using over 650,000 individual bricks to create a wall piece which stretches for almost 50 feet (roughly 15.2 meters). 

Some of the works are of a much more personal nature, such as “Left Right Studio Material,” a carpet of blue glazed pottery shards leftover from when the Chinese government raided Ai’s studio in 2018 demolishing everything they could find. At the time Ai had been experimenting with the ceramics, trying to create the largest possible sphere that would fire in his kiln without shattering. One such bubble is visible to the right of the shards, a lone survivor of the studio raid. This work is one of a handful that speak to Ai’s fascination and appreciation of artisanal Chinese craftwork, porcelain making being among many that are quickly dying out thanks to automated mass manufacturing processes.

A close-up view of the porcelain teapot shards that comprise “Spouts”. Ian Mansfield. CC BY-SA 2.0

In this vein, the two works “Untitled (Porcelain Balls)” and “Spouts” also pay homage to Chinese porcelain, the former a field of over 200,000 porcelain cannonballs from the Song Dynasty; Ai was shocked by  the use of such a delicate material to make ammunition. The latter is a collection of over 250,000 porcelain spouts broken off of teapots that were not perfect enough to be sold. These massive collections have been curated by Ai himself since the 90s and aim to question how we decide what objects are worthy of value: each of the cannonballs or stone age tools could be placed in a museum given their historical significance, but Ai was able to find them for next to nothing in Chinese flea markets.

“Backpack Snake” (left) and “Life Vest Snake” (right) adorn the back wall of the exhibit. Ed Reeve. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Conversely, the two winding snakes on the back wall of the exhibit are dedicated to the victims of the Sichuan earthquake in 2008 and the refugees who lost their lives making the journey to Europe from Syria. Titled “Backpack Snake” and “Life Vest Snake” respectively, each work uses items the artist found at the site of both crises: children’s backpacks collected from the rubble of the earthquake and life jackets left on shores of Lesbos by Syrian refugees. Ai painted over and repurposed these objects into the two 55 feet (roughly 16.8 meters) long serpents, which, to Ai, symbolize the complexity and unpredictability of crises both natural and man-made.

As of 2021, Ai has been living in Portugal and is still working in his new home in Montemor-o-Novo, a small countryside town near the Southwest Coast. His new work continues to draw inspiration from his Chinese roots as he collaborates with local ceramicists and porcelain makers to produce new art.


Tanaya Vohra

Tanaya is an undergraduate student pursuing a major in Public Health at the University of Chicago. She's lived in Asia, Europe and North America and wants to share her love of travel and exploring new cultures through her writing.

The Peace Walls in Belfast and the Politics of Separation

Today, there are efforts to take down the walls that have separated the loyalist and nationalist neighborhoods in Belfast for over fifty years. 

Murals along the Falls Road side of Belfast’s Peace Walls. Megan Coughlin. CC BY-ND 2.0

The Walls are not only a reminder of a violent history, but a medium for artistic expression and international solidarity.

The origin of the partition that defines Ireland today can be traced back to the early 1920’s, when a successful Irish rebellion from British rule led the island to be broken up into two countries. The Irish Free State gained independence from the United Kingdom, while Northern Ireland remained part of the British state. Irish Nationalists, who generally support an island-wide Irish republic, are predominantly Catholic, while British Loyalists/Unionists are mostly Protestants.

The 1960s saw the beginning of ‘the Troubles’ in Northern Ireland. The Troubles refer to the period of violence, riots, and unconventional warfare between the British state and Loyalists paramilitaries, who believed Northern Ireland should remain part of the United Kingdom, and Irish Nationalist paramilitaries, who wanted Northern Ireland to join the rest of the island as a United Ireland. 

It was within the context of the Troubles that the first Northern Ireland peace walls were built in 1969, after days of intense rioting in Belfast and Derry/Londonderry. Originally constructed as a temporary structure to ensure peace between the two sides, the walls have hardened into semi-permanent lines that continue to divide the cities today. 

The signing of the Good Friday Agreement in 1998, marked the end of the Troubles. The agreement set up an autonomous legislature and government that could legally only be governed by a coalition of  Unionist and Nationalist political parties. Furthermore, while still recognizing Northern Ireland as a part of the U.K., the agreement also acknowledged the possibility for the area to one day unite with the rest of Ireland should a majority vote to do so.

The Good Friday Agreement was a pivotal marker of peace and cooperation between the two sides. However today, some 25 years after its signing, peace walls continue to divide Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods in Belfast. 

One of the largest of these peace walls runs along the Falls and Shankill Roads in West Belfast and divides two major Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods. The wall is interrupted by stretches of metal gates, several of which still maintain a curfew, including the Townsend Street gates which closes every weekday night and throughout the weekend. The enduring curfew speaks to the continued tensions between Belfast’s Catholic and Protestant communities, which have been reinforced by the 2016 Brexit referendum. 

But today, the walls are not just borders of separation. They’re also a canvas of artistic expression. 

The Shankill and Loyalist side of the divide depicts memorializations of those killed by the Irish Republican Army (IRA) and tributes to the Ulster Defense Association, a Loyalist paramilitary organization founded in 1971. A portrait of King WIlliam, known as William of Orange, looks out upon the neighborhood where Union Jacks decorate the streets.

In contrast, the Falls Road and Irish nationalist side of the divide touts the orange and green Irish tricolor. Here, murals celebrate national pride with depictions of Gaelic sports and memorializations to national heroes, including a large portrait painted on the side of Sinn Fein Political Party Press Office of Bobby Sands, a popular IRA leader and elected MP who died of hunger strike while imprisoned. 

It is also on the Falls side that one can see the famous International Wall, depicting images of global civil rights leaders the likes of which include Fredrick Douglass, Nelson Mandela, Harriet Tubaman, the Rev. Martin Luther King Jr., and Bob Marley. In this neighborhood, it is common to Palestinian flags hanging in people’s windows, aligning a mission to free Irish land from British rule with that of occupied territory in Palestine. A mural on the International Wall depicts hands clasped between prison bars, one of which is draped in an Irish national flag, the other in a Palestinian flag. 

Murals along the peace wall that runs through Shankill and Falls Road. Mike McBride. CC BY-NC 2.0

In 2013, a project called Together: Building a United Community was launched by the Northern Ireland Executive. The project called for the removal of all walls in Northern Ireland by 2023, but progress has been slow and in January of 2023, about 60 walls still remain. In a 2015 survey by Ulster University on public attitudes towards the peace walls, about 35% of respondents wanted the peace walls  ‘come down some time in the future’ with 40% of Catholics and 25% of Protestants surveyed sharing this position, while 44% of Protestants and 23% of Catholics ‘would like things left the way they are now’.

While the future of the peace walls remains uncertain, their presence serves as a striking visual reminder of division within a city that is increasingly embracing a global economy and multiculturalism, the very extent of which is exemplified by the international calls for peace and solidarity in the artwork that lines the divided city. 

To Get Involved

The Social Change Initiative (SCI) is working to support peacebuilding and dialogue between Nationalists and Unionists. Based in Northern Ireland, SCI partners with local activists and publishes articles and reports that detail the strategies and reflections of those working directly within divided communities. SCI also connects local leaders to a global community of human rights activists through fellowships and mentoring programs, in an effort to create an international network through which individuals can share communication and advocacy tactics as well as strategies for peacebuilding and conflict disruption.

How To Visit

One of the most popular ways for travelers’ to experience and learn about Belfast’s peace walls is through Black Taxi Cab tours. 

The tours began in the 1970s and are recognized for their effort to provide a balanced and unbiased history of Belfast. The black taxis were first employed as a kind of bus service in the midst of the Troubles in order to transport working class people from their neighborhoods to the city center. The tours are notably co-run by Catholics and Protestants, allowing visitors to hear perspectives from both communities as they travel across the Falls and Shankill roads.


Jessica Blatt

Jessica Blatt graduated from Barnard College with a degree in English. Along with journalism, she is passionate about creative writing and storytelling that inspires readers to engage with the world around them. She hopes to share her love for travel and learning about new cultures through her work.

8 Independent Bookstores From Around the World

From shiny cafés to ancient theaters, here are some of the best independent bookstores to put on your travel list.

With more people ordering books online, it is more important than ever to support independent booksellers. jmm. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

For those of you that never travel without a book, or always finish the one you bring on the plane, this list of independent bookstores around the world could inspire you to make a reading detour on your next trip. While floor to ceiling bookshelves are the norm on this list, each shop has its own unique character, history, and traditions. Most importantly, they all boast an impressive selection of literature, some showcasing fresh local talent while others house rare ancient gems.

1. Topping & Company Booksellers - Edinburgh, Scotland

Located at the base of Edinburgh’s Calton Hill, Topping & Company Booksellers houses a massive selection of literature. Edinburgh News. CC BY-NC 2.0

The first Topping & Company bookshop opened in the town of Ely back in 2002, but the newest addition to the independently owned chain is one of the largest in the UK. The Edinburgh branch opened in 2019 and houses three floors of handcrafted floor-to-ceiling bookshelves and over 70,000 individual volumes, drawing in readers of all ages and interests. Their first floor has an impressive display of valuable rare and signed editions of various books, while the upstairs areas are split into specific genres ranging from award winning fiction to business and economics. Readers can use the signature Topping sliding ladders to grab a book off of the top shelves, or settle down into one of the many reading nooks scattered throughout the store to enjoy free servings of tea and biscuits. The store also holds a number of events throughout the year, hosting both established authors and rising stars, making it one of the premier literary hubs in Edinburgh.

2. Clarke’s Bookshop - Cape Town, South Africa

The facade of Clarke’s Bookshop on Long Street is favorite amongst locals who have been visiting for decades. Clarke’s Bookshop. CC BY-SA 2.0

Established back in 1957 as a secondhand bookstore by local Anthony Clarke, Clarke’s Bookshop is one of the longest running independent booksellers in South Africa. During the Apartheid Era, reading material was heavily censored by the country’s white supremacist regime and books deemed controversial often had to be smuggled in. Clarke’s was one of the few places that offered customers a wide variety of genres at an affordable price, and continues to live up to this legacy of intellectual tolerance today. While they still carry a large selection of previously used volumes, the shop began to specialize in African and South African specific works in the 1970s and has grown its collection exponentially since then. The store’s focus is to uplift South African stories and authors, with two entire floors dedicated to Africana works written by emerging South African authors. Clarke’s also has an impressive collection of rare texts that are no longer in print, and supply a number of libraries both locally and around the world.

3. Strand Book Store - New York City, USA

The iconic storefront of the Strand Bookstore in New York City has stood there since 1927. Ajay Suresh. CC BY 2.0

This could not be a list of independent bookstores without including Strand Book Store, located in midtown Manhattan. Founded almost a century ago by the then twenty-five year old Ben Bass, the store takes its name from the famous London street frequented by writers like Charles Dickens and William Thackeray, among others. Today, the Strand is proudly the largest bookstore in New York City and carries over a whopping 2.5 million volumes as well as an impressive selection of literary themed merchandise from stickers and magnets to tote bags and onesies. For those on a budget, the pavement outside the store is lined with its famous dollar carts, although finding a reasonably priced gem inside the store is always an option as well. Alternatively, if you have run out of space on your bookshelf at home and are looking to refresh your library, the Strand will also be happy to help provide a new home for your books and will make you an offer in either cash or store credit. From fashion almanacs to the newest fiction bestsellers, the Strand quite literally has it all.

4. Epigram Books - Singapore

The iconic floor-to-ceiling bookshelf in Epigram only contains titles published or written by Singaporeans. Nicholas Tan. CC BY-SA 2.0

In addition to being a bookstore, Epigram Books is also an established independent publishing house in Singapore working to showcase local poets, playwrights, and authors. In fact, the bookstore did not open properly until late 2022 after existing as a pop-up store around the city for a year. Hailed by many as being the best and one of only a few purveyors of Singaporean and Southeast Asian narratives, locals often enjoy browsing their beautiful wooden shelves while enjoying a coffee by in-house baristas. In 2015, they launched the Epigram Books Fiction Prize which takes creative writing submissions from all over Southeast Asia. All of the books shortlisted for the annual prize are always made available front and center in the store, along with an incredible collection of literature published by other Singaporean houses. Epigram’s tagline, “Hold Singapore in Your Hands,” speaks to its goal of creating a space in the literary world for local talent—one of the tables in their store is reserved for authors and artists to chat with readers and help visitors find inspiration amongst the shelves.

5. El Ateneo Grand Splendid - Buenos Aires, Argentina

El Ateneo Grand Splendid is located in a converted theater built over a century ago. Lorena Vb. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

For those of you who love music just as much as books, El Ateneo Grand Splendid is the perfect destination. The building was first opened in 1919 as a theater for ballet, opera, tango, and musical performances with a seating capacity of over 1,000, but eventually became a bookstore in 2000 after a short stint as a recording studio and radio station. Many have named this incredible space “the world’s most beautiful bookstore” because of its intricate frescoes and gilded bookshelves, but the atmosphere inside El Ateneo is as warm and welcoming as your neighborhood bookshop. The café built on the stage of the grand hall offers coffee and pastries to visitors who simply want to sit back and admire the emporium’s Latin architecture, while those looking to purchase have access to thousands of books, CDs, DVDs, and more. While the space welcomes over a million people every year, the orchestra and mezzanine areas as well as the luxury boxes have been converted into quiet reading spaces where you can enjoy Argentina’s rich literary tradition and history.

6. Wuguan Books - Kaohsiung City, Taiwan

Navigating Wuguan Books can be tricky given the almost total lack of light in the store. Jonny Diamond. CC BY-SA 2.0

If you have ever been told not to judge a book by its cover, this store makes it hard to do much else. Located in an art center that used to be a warehouse, Wuguan Books immerses visitors in almost complete darkness with only dim yellow lights illuminating the covers, while a small handful of reading lights are scattered through the space. The design was carefully thought up and executed by award winning architect Chu Chih-kang, who wanted the books to feel as if they were floating, and fully committed to the atmosphere by using thick carpets to absorb the sounds of footsteps and dark shelves that melt into the background. The goal was to allow people to really focus on the books without any other sensory distractions, so visitors are also required to follow rules which prohibit flash photography or flashlights. The store also houses a coffee bar and sells a variety of other merchandise, but is only accessible to those over the age of 18 due to the sensitive topics covered by some of the books. In an age where Instagram worthy aesthetics are all the rage, the inability to digitally document this space only adds to its intimate setting.

7. Another Story Bookshop - Toronto, Canada

The colorful window display of Another Story showcases a small fraction of its diverse selection. Arden Wray. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Just over thirty years ago, local Torontonian Sheila Koffman founded Another Story Bookshop in the basement of a downtown building with the goal of putting “diverse books into diverse hands.” She sadly passed away in 2017, but her efforts to provide a platform for authors who were queer or people of color live on in the store’s new location in the Roncesvalles Village neighborhood and through its loyal employees. The prevailing theme of the store is social justice, which becomes evident from its wide selection of both fiction and non-fiction for young readers and more seasoned ones. In fact, half of the store’s inventory caters specifically to children, and they also provide books to a number of local schools. The staff put in effort to locate stories and titles that are not available elsewhere in order to ensure that marginalized narratives, including and especially those of indigenous peoples, are heard. The staff’s hard work to ensure that every book they carry has a message that is, in their best judgment, the best way to pay tribute to Sheila’s founding vision.

8. Libreria Acqua Alta - Venice, Italy

All of the books in Libreria Acqua Alta are stored in waterproof containers to keep them dry during high tide. a2zphoto. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Books and water typically do not mix, but the staff at the Libreria Acqua Alta in Venice have found a solution. The shop is located on an island in the middle of one of the city’s countless canals, and all of its precious books are stored in various waterproof bins, bathtubs, and even a full-sized gondola. True to its name which translates to “Library of High Water”, this innovation provides a safe sanctuary when the tide rises and water floods to a few inches in height. The store is fantastical in every way, with giant leather-bound volumes stacked haphazardly against the wall, ships’ wheels and other maritime gadgets scattered across the piles, and an entire staircase made of books. For those looking to make a literary purchase, the store has an amazing inventory of both new and secondhand books in a variety of languages as well as a large collection specifically about Venice. On the other hand, the store also offers a number of vintage souvenirs and is home to a handful of friendly cats for those who simply want to experience another bookstore heralded as among the most beautiful in the world.


Tanaya Vohra

Tanaya is an undergraduate student pursuing a major in Public Health at the University of Chicago. She's lived in Asia, Europe and North America and wants to share her love of travel and exploring new cultures through her writing.

6 Must-See Islands off the Coast of Chile

Traverse the natural gems and explore the historical sites of Chile’s outre-mer.

Penguins off the coast of Chiloe Island. Mary Madigan. CC BY 2.0. 

One of the westernmost countries of South America, Chile has gained fame for its gorgeous mountains and fjords, its delicious street cuisine, the integral place futbol has in its people’s everyday life, and perhaps even its complex political history. The distinct cultural and travel experience the country offers does not apply only to its mainland, but also to the islands that surround it. In fact, Chile’s islands house some of the most individual and exclusive travel experiences and institutions: 

1. Isla Magdalena

Off the coast of Isla Magdalena. Iamblukas. CC BY 2.0.

Isla Magdalena’s lush landscapes are home to everything from the circa 120,000 Magellanic penguins characteristic of southern South America, the National Monument for Penguins that explores and explains the members of this colony, and a magnificent view of the Strait of Magellan discovered by Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan. The Isla Magdalena Lighthouse, another landmark, also rests on the island and contains many exhibitions that detail its history and traditions. Travel to Isla Magdalena by public ferry or private speedboat (for about 2 hours) after a fruitful day on the Chilean mainland; the island is 608 sq mi.

2. Robinson Crusoe Island 

A view of Robinson Crusoe Island’s mountains. Ashley Basil. CC BY 2.0.

Robinson Crusoe Island’s name comes from the titular Daniel Defoe protagonist and explorer who travels across the sea to a deserted island. Certainly, all visitors feel like explorers on Robinson Crusoe Island. Guests can snorkel or scuba dive along the island’s coral reefs, observe shipwrecks scattered across its coast, birdwatch, hike in the area’s luscious rainforests, visit ruins left from plundering pirates, and enjoy the local cuisine, especially the lobster.  You can even partake in day-long fishing trips to score fresh lobsters! A ~2 hour flight from Santiago or an hour-long water taxi journey drops guests off at this adventure-filled island; the island is 18.5 sq mi in area.

3. Chiloé Island

A view from Ancud on Chiloé Island. Ik T. CC BY 2.0.

Chiloé Island’s landscape defines it: the Chiloé National Park highlights much of this breath-taking landscape with green terrain, rivers, lakes, and stunning forests. For those further intrigued by the island’s natural beauty, horseback riding around the island quenches the explorer’s thirst. But this island is not only a place of natural beauty; history remains an important part of Chiloé Island culture. The churches of Chiloé, mostly built in the 17th century and showcasing Spanish colonial design, are monuments to the island’s rich history. The Ancud Regional Museum (Museo Regional de Ancud) also puts much of the island’s history, its mythology, and its indigenous residents under the spotlight. As with many other Chilean islands, water sports like kayaking and fishing also contribute to the visitor experience. A circa 30-minute ferry ride across the Canal de Chacao drops guests off on Chiloé; the island is 3,241 sq mi.

4. Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego

Snow capped mountains of Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego. James St. John. CC BY 2.0. 

South America’s largest island, Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego, is part of the Tierra del Fuego archipelago off the coast of the southernmost tip of South America. A ~2 hour ferry ride across the Strait of Magellan drops visitors off at this island first dubbed “Land of Smoke” by Ferdinand Magellan. Walk the footsteps of explorers like Ferdinand Magellan and Charles Darwin on Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego as you immerse yourself in the island’s spectacular flora, which includes many species of trees like the beech and conifer, and fauna the fauna of Parque Pinguino Rey (King Penguin Park) and the foxes, flamingos, and condors found all around the island’s mountains; the island is 18, 530 sq mi

5. Navarino 

A view of the Dientes de Navarino Mountains. Dimitry B. CC BY 2.0.

Navarino, another island that is far south of the Magellan Strait, is a worthwhile travel destination for outdoorsy adventurers. Hikers will enjoy walking among the island’s snow capped mountains and fishers can discover a multitude of rivers and even high-altitude lakes. One of the most beautiful routes for active visitors is the Dientes de Navarino (Teeth of Navarino) Trek. This somewhat frightening name refers to Navarino’s mountains through which many travelers enjoy hiking. The culturally inclined can visit Puerto Williams, the island’s only town and the past residence of indigenous Yaghan people. Puerto Williams’ museums offer insights on the isle’s Yaghan past and its weighty and resonant history. Access to Navarino is available by a 30-minute boat ride from the port of Ushuaia; the island is 35.7 sq mi.

6. Riesco Island 

A view of the Fitzroy Canal from Isla Riesco. Z_thomas. CC BY-SA 3.0.

Riesco Island’s must-see features range from Patagonian ranches to historical coal reserves. The bleating sounds ring across the island, while its cattle fields are still dominated by gauchos, or South American cowboys, and remain a sight to behold for those visitors who crave a distinctive cultural experience. The island, one of the largest islands in Chile and accessible from Patagonia through a 30-minute boat ride across the Fitzroy Canal, is also known for its coal reserves; in fact, coal mines such as the Invierno (winter) Mine, Magdalena, Elena, and Josefina are historical locations of note. Riesco sightseers should also watch out for glaciers lining Riesco’s coasts; the island is 1,970 sq mi.


Su Ertekin-Taner

Su Ertekin-Taner is a first year student at Columbia University majoring in creative writing. Her love for the power of words and her connection to her Turkish roots spills into her satire, flash fiction, and journalistic pieces among other genres. Su hopes to continue writing fearless journalism, untold stories, and prose inspired by her surroundings.

From Mento to Reggae: Jamaica's Vibrant Music Scene

Captivating melodies, profound stories, and deep cultural ties have woven a musical tapestry unique to the Caribbean nation. 

Reggae concert. Image by Yardie. 

In the early 1900s, Jamaican music underwent a transformative journey influenced by myriad cultural expressions. Rooted in the rich traditions of African folklore, Anansi stories of the eponymous trickster/spider god Anansi took center stage, captivating listeners with hypnotic chants to enchanting stories. Over time, these stories evolved into the rhythmic beats of digging signs sung by field workers, resonating with the experiences and unity of working-class Jamaicans. During the same period, ring tunes’ for kids and dancing tunes’ joyous melodies and communal spirit became an integral part of the music scene, encouraging lively community dances and bringing people together. Jamaica’s rhythmic interplay and narrative-driven art, the cultural influences of Anansi stories, digging sings and ring tunes played a pivotal role in shaping the evolving sounds of Jamaican music, laying the foundation for the genres that would continue to capture the people’s triumphs, struggles, and celebrations. The echoes of these musical styles reverberate from the early 1900s Jamaican music landscape, paving the way for the rhythmic revolutions of mento and ska and the profound social commentary of rocksteady and reggae from the 1940s-1960s.

Mento: A Time Capsule of Jamaican Life and Resilience 

A painting of mento drummers. Mento2011 Fallmouth Jamaica

Born from a fusion of rhythms brought to the West Indies by enslaved West Africans, European musical traditions, and the Indigenous sounds of Jamaica's Taino people, the late 1940s birthed a vibrant expression of everyday life: mento. Mento vividly captured the spirit of Jamaican communities, offering a window into their triumphs and challenges through lively melodies and infectious rhythms, played on instruments like the banjo, guitar, and maracas. It became a testament to the indomitable spirit of the Jamaican people, celebrating their traditions and cultural identity.

Mento’s most outstanding achievement was laying the foundation for future genres. Specifically, its rhythms and energy paved the way for the revolutionary beats of ska in the 1950s, while its resilience and vibrancy found their way into the iconic reggae anthems, symbolizing Jamaican identity worldwide. Through mento, the rich roots of Jamaican folk music intertwined with the heritage of diverse influences, deciding with finality that music is for the people. Today, mento continues to captivate audiences connecting them to the vibrant past of the island.

Fishbone playing in Los Angeles.  

Ska: A Joyful Revolution with a Powerful Beat

In the transformative 1950s, ska emerged as a genre that reflected the social and political upheaval of the time and became a catalyst for change. With its energetic tempo, infectious rhythms, and the unmistakable resonance of brass instruments, ska created a pulsating sound that swept a generation. Inspired by Jamaican mento and Trinidad and Tobago’s calypso, ska was a jubilant call to unity, a musical expression of the collective yearning for a better world.

As the vibrant ska beats enveloped the airwaves and dancehalls, it carried a profound message. Through its lyrics, ska shed light on the harsh realities of poverty, inequality, and discrimination that plagued Jamaican society. It served as a powerful voice, amplifying the concerns and struggles of the marginalized and disenfranchised. Yet, amidst the social challenges, ska embodied a spirit of resilience, hope, and determination. It became a unifying force, inspiring people to unite, rise above adversity, and strive for a more inclusive and equitable future.

 Crowd at a live music event. Image by Yardie.

Rocksteady: The Soulful Bridge to Reggae 

Between the exciting ska era and the rise of reggae lies the soulful interlude of rocksteady, a genre that left an indelible mark on Jamaica's musical landscape. In the mid-1960s, as the country underwent significant social and political shifts, among the most significant being political independence from the British Empire, rocksteady emerged as a musical bridge, connecting ska’s exuberance with reggae’s even more profound social commentary.

Rocksteady's distinct sound captivated listeners with smooth, melodic rhythms. Influenced by American soul and rhythm and blues, the genre introduced a slower tempo and more introspective grooves, reflecting the changing landscape of Jamaican society. Historically, rocksteady emerged when Jamaica was transitioning from its colonial past to a newfound sense of cultural identity and political consciousness. The smooth and soulful melodies of rocksteady expressed the Jamaican people’s evolving aspirations and struggles. It provided a platform for introspection, offering a sanctuary of musical solace amidst social and political transformations. Some rocksteady songs went on to become hits outside of Jamaica, as with ska, helping to secure the international base reggae music has today.

Reggae: A Cultural Anthem of Love, Unity, and Social Justice

The wall of records. Christina Xu

Undoubtedly, the most renowned and internationally celebrated genre of Jamaican music is reggae. Born in the late 1960s against the backdrop of a dynamic Jamaican society, reggae emerged as a powerful and transformative force, both musically and culturally. It was a fusion of various influences, including mento, ska, rocksteady, R&B, and the religio-liberationary message of Rastafari, which came together to form a genre with a distinct sound and a profound global impact.

Reggae became the quintessential voice of Jamaica's cultural identity and pride. Its roots ran deep in the history and struggles of the Jamaican people, serving as a vessel for their collective experiences and aspirations. The soul-stirring messages of reggae spoke directly to the hearts and minds of listeners. Its lyrics, laden with social and political commentary, addressed love, unity, and social justice issues, offering a compelling call to action.

Reggae's global impact cannot be overstated. It has become synonymous with Jamaica, attracting audiences from around the world who resonate with its powerful messages and irresistible grooves. Reggae's cultural significance extends beyond music, influencing fashion, art, and of course social movements. Its legacy as a music of liberation and empowerment continues to inspire generations, reminding us of the power of music to transcend borders and ignite positive change.

Explore the world of Jamaican folk music, and immerse yourself in the pulsating energy of live performances at local clubs and music festivals, where the air is thick with the collective joy of dancing to the irresistible beats. More immediately, check out this playlist we created with some of our favorite Jamaican music.


Raeann Mason

Raeann is a traveler, digital storyteller, and guide writer, with a degree in Mass Communication & Media from the Walter Cronkite School of Journalism. She is passionate about a/effective journalism and cultural exchange, and is an advocate of international solidarity and people's liberation. Her work at CATALYST focuses on reshaping the culture of travel and hospitality to be more ethically sound and sustainable.

Uncovering the Diversity of African Music

If you are a music buff looking to expand your horizon, check out these 5 African music genres.

African drums. Lee Pigott. Unsplash.

People all across the African diaspora share a love for music, which connects everyone to the same frequency. Many are familiar with Afrobeats, a style of music from Nigeria, but there are many different and diverse genres to explore the sounds of, from the likes of Amapiano to Chimurenga.

Amapiano

Two people singing Amapiano together.. The Charles Gallery. Unsplash

Amapiano is a genre of music originating from South Africa characterized by a mixture of jazz, house and Gospel music. Amapiano is composed heavily of synthesizers, percussion, soulful vocals, and repetitive melodies. This genre of music is relatively new, coming into being in the early 2010’s.  Amapiano is a Zulu word meaning “the pianos.” Amapiano is a form of music South Africans believe can bridge people together, and a musical escape for the younger generations.

Listen to a Youtube playlist of Amapiano music

Juju

Man playing music on the beach. Seun Adeniyi-CCO.

Juju is a genre of music that originates from Nigeria, specifically its Yoruba region. It’s a musical style that is composed of praise-singing accompanied by a guitar or banjo and a gourd shaker. This genre of music was traditionally played in taverns or during festivals as dance music, but became modernized and generally popular by the 1980’s. As it grew in popularity, it led to the birth of many other genres of music like Highlife or Afrobeats, as we know of them today.

Listen to a Youtube playlist of Juju music

Coupe decale 

A group dances to Coupe Decale. Tommy. CC 2.0

Coupe Decale is a genre of music created by Cote D'ivoirians living in France in the early 2000’s. It’s a musical style composed of ‘computerized circular beats’ mixed with Ivorian rhythms . The lyrics themselves are inspired by the West African griot tradition of story-telling, and the genre’s primary message focuses on providing a space for many people to dress nice, go clubbing, and forget their problems during a time of economic and political crisis.

Listen to a Youtube playlist of Coupe Decale music

Gnawa–saharan Folk music

Man playing Moroccan bass lute. Marrakech Riad-CCO.

Gnawa is a folk  genre that originates from Morocco. It’s a musical style that has its roots in ancient African tradition, as it’s the result of formerly enslaved black Africans integrating into Moroccan life. It serves as a preservation of the folkloric music of their ancestors, as well as a means to heal from collective trauma. Interestingly it is also said to have healing properties for those that are possessed by ‘genie spirits.’ Its musical style is composed of African percussion, metallic castanets, and bass lutes.’ Gnawa at its core is a combination of poetry, music and dancing. This genre shares many similarities with its American counterparts Jazz and the Blues, as all three share the same purpose. The genre’ songs consist of references to the singer’s origins and history regarding enslavement. 

Listen to a Youtube playlist of Coupe Decale music

Chimurenga 

Thomas Mapfumo, the creator of Chimurenga music performs. Cultrvultr-CC BY NC-SA 2.0

Chimurenga is a genre of music that was developed in Zimbabwe. It was used to protest colonial rule in the 70s, and more generally is used to discuss and inform on societal issues and movements important to the singer. Because of this, it is recognized as ‘music for the people’s struggle’. This musical genre can be accredited to the Shona musician Thomas Mapfumo. He was inspired by the rock bands he heard playing growing up and his Shona background to create a political movement through music.

Listen to a Youtube playlist of Chimurenga music


Kadija Diallo

Kadija is a student at Georgia State in Atlanta, Ga. She is a creative spirit who loves traveling and seeing new places. She also enjoys using her love for writing/storytelling to make an impact on the world. One day she hopes to make new connections and share stories as she travels to every continent. 

Kazakhstan's Journey From Nuclear Devastation to Disarmament

The harrowing story of Soviet nuclear testing in Semipalatinsk, Kazakhstan, and the wrangling with its legacy.

The center of the Semipalatinsk nuclear test site.Alexander Liskin.CC BY-SA 3.0.

It was the summer of 1953. Valentina Nikonchik was outside playing in Semey, a village in eastern Kazakhstan, then part of the Soviet Union. The ground suddenly trembled, and the air filled with a deafening boom that shook Nikonchik to her core. Little did she know that she had witnessed the first detonation at “the Polygon” of a thermonuclear device, a monstrous weapon of mass destruction that released a force equivalent to 400 kilotons of TNT.

West of Nikonchik’s hometown of Semey lies Semipalatinsk, the testing location where the Soviet Union’s nuclear visions were accomplished. A once-thriving region, now a desolate wasteland, has a dark history. In this Central Asian Soviet Republic, the Soviets conducted nearly 400 nuclear tests, blasting a lethal storm of radioactive isotopes into the environment and soil from 1949 to 1989. Even now, the consequences of these tests are still felt, with environmental damage and public health risks ongoing in the area. 

At a conference commemorating the ninth anniversary of the Nevada-Semipalatinsk movement, the first anti-nuclear protest movement in the USSR, statistics showing that between 500,000 and 8 million people were directly impacted by the test site’s operations were presented. The detonations, with their tragic and predictable repercussions, represent one of the twentieth century’s major ethical violations. Altogether, the total force of the nuclear explosions at Semipalatinsk equals more than 2,500 Hiroshima bombs. The long-term health effects for the region were harrowing, including an alarming spike in health issues such as miscarriages, birth deformities, and suicides blamed on “unsanitary conditions” in the area by Soviet military scientists in the following decades. What is so disturbing about these dismissals is that the same medical professionals had been performing creeping radiation tests on the villagers for years. 

The testing site, despite being uninhabited, is encircled by villages, and the major hub of Semipalatinsk lies just 160 km away. But the testing was kept secret, known only to top Communist Party officials, while anyone who spoke out against the detonations was immediately silenced. Russian scientists confessed that they failed to follow burial and nuclear material protection protocols, as they thought that no one would be in the area. The newly independent Kazakh government officially acknowledged 1,323,000 people as negatively affected by nuclear testing in 1992. However, just 1,057,000 of them received radiation passports, leaving over a quarter of those affected without the requisite documentation. From 2003 to 2017, a $30.5 million reimbursement was intended to give relief to over 700,000 passport holders. Divided between them, a pittance of only only $40 was allocated to each individual each year.

Map of Semipalatinsk Nuclear Test Range, Area “N”. Martin Trolle Mikkelsen.CC BY 2.0.

In 1990, a year before independence, the International Physicians for the Prevention of Nuclear War (IPPNW) and Kazakh poet Olzhas Suleimenov’s Nevada-Semipalatinsk Movement banded together and pushed Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev’s to issue declaration of a nuclear testing moratorium. Kazakhstan seized the opportunity to declare independence the same year and promptly closed down the infamous Semipalatinsk plant. Then, the nation went further, renouncing its inherited position as the world's fourth-largest nuclear weapons owner, and relinquishing its stockpile.

Despite this, the inhabitants go about their regular lives, seemingly unaware of the danger that surrounds them. They swim and fish in the lakes, graze their herds and pick wild strawberries all while being exposed to the poison lurking in the ground and air. However, the danger does not end there. The area will remain a bleak wasteland for millennia, poisoned with plutonium, strontium, and cesium, unfit for human habitation. Residents continue to graze their animals and collect contaminated scrap metal on the polluted land as the 7,065 square mile region is devoid of barriers, fencing, and warnings reminding people of its radioactive status.

Semey, once a thriving city, has suffered the brunt of the devastation. While acute blasts of radiation produced immediate harm, repeated modest doses of radiation over time can accumulate to cause great damage. The wind on the Kazakh steppe has brought the radioactive fallout to nearby settlements, amplifying the impact. The repercussions of nuclear testing have been passed down to future generations as a result of radiation-induced mutations in the population’s chromosomes. As a result, the region’s life expectancy is seven years lower than the national average due to a rise in the prevalence of cancer, thyroid sickness, and birth abnormalities. Tolkyn Bulegenov, Vice President of Semey Medical University, confirms that “in the zones adjacent to the test site, one can encounter 10 to 15% more malignant thyroid and blood malignancies - hematological blastoma, leukosis, lymphoma, and chronic leukemia - than in other regions of Kazakhstan.”

Semipalatinsk Nuclear Test, the effect of radiation on the fetus. Perrona Patrick André Perron.CC BY 3.0.

The late 1980s saw a glimmer of hope for the people of Kazakhstan. As the world was introduced to Gorbachev’s nuclear testing moratorium, the Nevada-Semey movement was born on Kazakh soil with a mission to shut down the Semipalatinsk polygon. Kazakhstan destroyed its inherited weapons testing infrastructure and disposed of the remaining vulnerable nuclear material with the cooperation of foreign partners, including the United States.

On August 29, 1991, President Nursultan Nazarbayev signed the proclamation closing the test site, popularly known as the Polygon, which marked a watershed point in Kazakhstan’s recent history. As part of the Nunn-Lugar Cooperative Threat Reduction Program, the United States collaborated with Kazakhstan between 1995 and 2001 to seal 13 boreholes and 181 tunnels at the test site. From 2012 to 2019, the National Nuclear Security Agency and the Netherlands led two major radiological security operations in Kazakhstan, securing approximately 13,000 radioactive sources from the National Nuclear Center and the Mangystau Atomic Energy Complex. Kazakhstan confirmed its commitment to a nuclear-free world in 2021, in accordance with the Treaty on the Prohibition of Nuclear Weapons.

Kazakhstan’s commitment to disarmament has allowed the nation to serve as an example of a responsible state that has relinquished its nuclear weapons, setting a global precedent for responsible statehood. Kazakhstan has created an environment conducive to the formulation of a multifaceted foreign policy by abandoning its nuclear weapons and closing the world's most extensively used nuclear test site, allowing the country to collaborate with China, Central Asia, Europe, and the United States. While each nuclear-armed state faces unique problems, Kazakhstan’s peaceful approach to disarmament has encouraged many, and its lessons serve as a guide for other countries seeking a similar path.

TO GET INVOLVED:

The Nuclear Threat Initiative (NTI) is a nonprofit global security organization focused on reducing nuclear and biological threats imperiling humanity. You can learn more about NTI and its records on nuclear disarmament in Kazakhstan here.

Togzhan Kassenova’s Atomic Steppe: How Kazakhstan Gave up the Bomb explains Kazakhstan’s denuclearization process in detail. Kassenova’s book explains how Kazakhstan’s leadership considered security interests as well as economic, political, and diplomatic priorities when making the decision to give up nuclear weapons. You can learn more about Atomic Steppe on Amazon here.


Hope Zhu

Hope is a Chinese international student at Wake Forest University in North Carolina studying sociology, statistics, and journalism. She dreams of traveling around the globe as a freelance reporter while touching on a wide range of social issues from education inequality to cultural diversity. Passionate about environmental issues and learning about other cultures, she is eager to explore the globe. In her free time, she enjoys cooking Asian cuisine, reading, and theater.

The Gris-gris Wrestlers of Senegal

Wrestling — la lutte in French, or lamb in native Wolof — is by far the most popular sport in Senegal, even more beloved than football.

The entire population, from toddlers to grandmothers, follows the big wrestling matches either in the stadium, on the television, or on the street. Senegalese wrestling differs from that practised more commonly in western and Asian countries — mostly because of the traditional rituals practised by competitors. In western countries, these mystic rituals are often colloquially called voodoo, but the Senegalese call it gris-gris.

These unusual rituals are usually performed with the presentation and veneration of traditional amulets, the use of magic potions, and hypnotic drumming, songs and dance — all as an integral part of the wrestling match. The wrestler above is presenting his magic amulets to the crowd before a fight in the Adrien Senghor arena. Meanwhile, below you see a wrestler training before a final fight in the Iba Mar Diop stadium, located in the Medina district in Dakar. To prepare, he dances alone in a trance-like state to ear-deafening hypnotic drums and repetitive beats.

During the last ten years, the traditional sport of La Lutte Sénégalaise has become a million dollar spectacle, mostly because of big telecom sponsors, TV stations, and new media channels. This has led to the most successful wrestlers becoming media-stars and billionaires, giving young men in this African country a very different perspective. For wrestlers who succeed there is not only social recognition, along with high value prizes into the hundreds of thousands of US dollars for the highest profile fights, but also the chance of well-paid jobs in the security industry or as a trainer in a wrestling school.

THE BIG FIGHT

While in Dakar, I attended a huge fight between two superstars of Senegalese wrestling — Balla Gaye 2 and Emeu Sene — along with more than 20,000 other fans at the sold out soccer stadium called Demba Diop, on April 5, 2015. With over 200 million CFA (around USD $300,000) at stake, this was a serious match. In the weeks beforehand, large billboards and posters appeared all over the city, advertising the event. Below you see fans and street vendors gathering outside the stadium before it began.

At the start of the competition, Adam Ngom, a well-known drummer, fired up the audience to welcome the champion wrestler Balla Gaye 2. An important mystical element, the deafening sound of the drums is never absent from a fight, not even at small wrestling matches in local villages.

One of many mystical rituals performed by the wrestlers, releasing pigeons is believed to bring the wrestler luck. Balla Gaye 2, whose real name is Sakko, became a superstar in Senegal after he dethroned the reigning champion Yekini in 2012, who had remained unbeaten for fifteen years.

Similar to wrestling styles in other countries, a Senegalese fighter will try to grab their opponent by legs, and unbalance him. Nowadays a wrestling match that also involves boxing is the king’s discipline of the Senegalese sport, but the more traditional forms of wrestling are still performed without boxing in many of the villages. Below you see wrestler BB Bismi Ndoye defeating his opponent Maraka Dji, during another fight in the Demba Diop stadium on April 5, 2015. Some fights will last no longer than 90 seconds and only very rarely do they go on longer than fifteen minutes.

RITUAL & RHYTHM

Senegal’s climate is too hot for wrestling during the day, so competitions always take place in the evening, often lasting until well after midnight.

Attending these late night competitions, the atmosphere and mood often evoked is that of an ancient gladiatorial fight, with plenty of wild drumming and singing. Below you see the contrasting enthusiasm and frustration of rival supporters in the Iba Mar Diop stadium — every well-known wrestler has his own loyal supporters who spur him on during a fight.

Senegalese wrestling matches always take place on sand and many wrestling stars will head out to train on the public beaches of Dakar, which also provides a welcome source of entertainment for the locals.

Witchcraft and magic play a very important role in Senegalese wrestlers’ preparations. Below you see Kherou Ngor, a young lightweight wrestling champion, washing himself with milk on the shore of Ngor in Dakar. Kherou performs this traditional ritual as he believes that he will gain strength and support from a ghost who lives among the stones on the shore.

At least three times a week, Kherou will also train on the long stairway in front of the “monument of the African Renaissance”, one of the biggest bronze statues in the world. Ultimately, the North Korean aesthetic and the statue’s insane building cost prevented the former Senegalese president Abdoulaye Wade from being re-elected.

Before a fight, it is also common for a marabout — a religious leader and teacher — to conduct rituals, believed to give the wrestler supernatural powers. Marabouts also make and sell amulets, called Gris-gris, and magic potions to the wrestlers, which they then take to the matches in bottles. Traditional shamans also play a part in the preparations. Every wrestler has an assistant who takes care of his Gris-gris amulets and prepares him for each fight. Below you see one of those assistants sacrificing milk at a cham, a special place of worship for the ancestors of the wrestler’s family.

Another important ritual wrestlers often celebrate before a fight is the inhalation of holy smoke. Each wrestler uses a special cloth to waft the smoke, which he will then wear on his abdomen during the fight.

EVOLUTION OF A SPORT

Wrestling has a centuries-long traditional history as part of popular culture and tradition in Senegal and I met photographer Freekis Ndoye from Dakar, who shared his historical pictures of wrestlers from the 1950s. The first celebrated wrestler in the region of Senegambia was called Boukar Djilak Faye and he lived during the 14th century in the kingdom of Sine.

Almost every village in rural Senegal organizes regular wrestling tournaments, often to accompany a communal celebration or party. Below, in the small village of Soune, you see women and children gathering to watch the men fight in a wrestling match, as a young wrestler pours a magic potion over himself, prepared by a shaman to lend him supernatural forces.

Before each fight, the wrestlers must wrap a special cloth around their abdomens, which they can use to grab hold of each other during the fight.

Below you see a wrestler from the small village of Djilass, during a ritual river washing before a regional fight competition. The captial city of Dakar attracts many wrestlers who are successful in rural areas, as it is only at the bigger competitions a fighter can win significant prize money.

Today, especially at the bigger matches in Dakar, many of the traditional costumes once worn by wrestlers during the dances and gris-gris ceremonies that are held before a fight, have been exchanged for high-tech sports gear emblazoned with the bold logos of modern telecommunication brands. Here you see a group of young wrestlers performing a dance at the Demba Diop stadium in Dakar.

With the influence of big sponsors, wrestling has become a very trendy sport and is no longer seen as a sport only for old men. Even young girls like 23-year-old Aissa, who is a waitress at the “Black and White” bar on the beach of Ngor, read the Sunu Lamb newspaper — a daily publication dedicated exclusively to Senegalese wrestling matches.

The faces of top wrestlers are also becoming a popular subject for t-shirts and the superstars of wrestlers gather many adoring young followers.

THE NEXT GENERATION

Tens of thousands of young men in Senegal now dream of making wresting their future career, in the hope of becoming rich and famous. Every evening, as the heat of the sun begins to lessen, you will find the next generation of wrestlers training hard on the beach of Ngor in Dakar.

Most of the young hopefuls have very little money to their names, so they must be resourceful with their training — only the top wrestlers can afford to train at the city’s dedicated wrestling gymnasiums.

The young men with the most talent will go on to train at one of the famous wrestling schools run by ex-fighters like Balla Gaye, who opened the first official wrestling school in Senegal. Many successful wrestlers have graduated from his school, including the superstar Balla Gaye 2.

Now retired from competition, below you see another famous wrestler, Lac de Guiers, posing in front of the Mar Diop stadium. It was in this very arena that his fight against the wrestler Commando made wrestling history. With a series of targeted, hard punches, Lac de Guiers defeated the much taller favourite and sent him tumbling out cold to the ground.

These days, Lac de Guiers owns a wrestling school and lives peacefully with his family, a sheep, a few pigeons, and his parrot. Here you see him relaxing and watching an important weekend match with his family on TV, just like a hundred thousand other Senegalese people on a Saturday afternoon.

Named in honour of his mentor and trainer, below you see the wrestler Lac de Guiers 2, pictured after a training session on the bonnet of his car, which he was able to buy using some of the prize money he has won. A rising star, on April 12, 2015, he followed in his predecessor’s footsteps and defeated the strong favorite, Papa Sow, in a sensational fight at Demba Diop stadium.

For now, the future of this traditional sport looks set to be filled with ever higher profile competitions and tantilising promise for Senegal’s next generation of aspiring young wrestlers.



Christian Bobst is a documentary and travel photographer who is based in Zürich, Switzerland. You can explore more of his work at christianbobstphotography.com.

THIS ARTICLE WAS ORIGINALLY PUBLISHED ON MAPTIA.

9 Hottest Cuisines from Around the World

Discover the 9 spiciest cuisines from around the world, from Jamaican jerk chicken to Brazilian bean cake

Homemade Hotpot. Jonathan Lin. CC BY 2.0.

Flavorful and diverse, food can bring a range of sensory pleasure through the tastes of sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and savory. But, spicy, a sensation rather than a flavor, is a unique combination of scorching pain and alluring charm. While it can leave a strong impression on diners, it can also burn the tongue and leave one reaching for a glass of iced milk. 

Whether you love it or hate it, people around the world enjoy spicy food for various reasons, including the stimulation of appetite in tropical regions and triggering the release of pleasant endorphins through heat mimicry. If you're looking for a tantalizing culinary adventure, check out this list of the 10 spiciest cuisines from around the world.

1. Jerk chicken, Jamaica

Jerk chicken at The Jamaican Grill. Hajime Nakano. CC BY 2.0.

Jerk seasoning is a mixture of spices such as onion powder, garlic powder, cayenne pepper, dried parsley, ground clove, and cumin that bring a taste of the Caribbean to any diner. However, it is scotch bonnet peppers that bring the heat to this Jamaican dish. On the Scoville heat unit scale, which measures the number of times an active component of peppers needs to be diluted by sugar water to achieve a neutral taste, scotch bonnet peppers are nearly 100 times hotter than jalapeno peppers. Jerk chicken, a popular dish that can be made with either bone-in or deboned chicken breast, is typically marinated or dry-rubbed with this spicy seasoning. In Jamaica, where the dish originated, people place charcoals in a fire pit with pimento wood on top, then put the seasoned chicken on the wood. The slow cook that lasts for hours allows the chicken to absorb the fragrant oil and smoke from the pimento wood, rendering its piquant taste.

2. Sik Sik Wat/Doro wat, Ethiopia

Demera Ethiopian at Chicago French Market. Kurman Communications, Inc. CC BY 2.0.

Doro Wat or Sik Sik Wat of Ethiopia is a classic slow-cooked Ethiopian stew simmering in dried red chilies, paprika, cayenne, and fenugreek. Berberé, a paprika-based mixture, and Niter Kibbeh, a fragrant, herb-infused clarified butter, are the two main seasonings that give the stew its rich flavor. Boiled gently in the caramelized onions, the tender chicken or beef is often combined with a tangy piece of injera, which is Ethiopian bread made from fermented teff flour. Before the stew is fully cooked, peeled, hard-boiled eggs are added to absorb the zesty spices and furnish the bright, mouthwatering red of the dish. It is also a staple of Ethiopian holiday celebrations like Christmas and Easter, particularly popular during the 43-day fast before Christmas. Many Ethiopians prefer to have this spice-filled meat stew as their first choice after abstaining from meat. 

3. Bean cake, Brazil

Bean cake. Stephanie.CC BY 2.0.

Popular in Brazil, bean cake is a street food dish made of deep-fried, peeled black-eyed peas beans filled with spicy pastes including cashews, shrimp, and palm oil. These patties offer a crispy exterior and a soft, pillowy interior. Its filling opens to a range of enticing ingredients, from traditional vatapa with palm nut sauce and spices to modern versions with cheese and salsa. The street food, which originates from Bahia state, has  roots in West Africa. Historically sold by Afro-Brazilian women (Baianas) on the streets who dress in traditional costumes, bean cake is not only a delicious treat with its vibrant flavors and texture, but also holds cultural significance. The slave descendant woman used to sell Bainas for a living and earn their freedom in the 19th century, Whether enjoyed as a snack or a full meal, it is usually served with a tomato salad and homemade hot pepper sauces.

4. Potatoes Huancayo style, Peru

Peruvian Potatoes Huancayo style Sauce. AgainErick.CC BY-SA 3.0.

A traditional Peruvian dish known as “Potatoes Huancayo style Sauce,” Papa a la huancaína is made of rustic and flavorful potatoes covered in cheese, milk, and a variety of spices. The unique flavor of Aji Amarillo, a Peruvian chili pepper that is an inseparable part of the local cuisine, is the highlight of this deceptively simple salad dish. Without the harshness and heat of a typical pepper, Aji Amarillo is fruity and subtle, making it a perfect option for a hot summer day. The origin story of Papa a la huancaína also set this dish apart. According to local legend, the dish originated in the late 1800s in the central Andes Mountains city of Huancayo, where a woman vendor sold it to railroad workers. Its bold flavors, robust spices, and creamy texture quickly gained popularity and became a much-anticipated lunchtime treat for the workers. Today, Papa a la huancaína is on the menu of most restaurants serving traditional Peruvian cuisine.

5. Kimchi Jjigae, Korea

Tuna kimchi jjigae. Chloe Lim.CC BY 2.0.

Kimchi Jjigae is a traditional Korean dish renowned for its bold and spicy flavor. Made from fermented Napa cabbage and a mix of spices, including garlic, fish paste, chili paste, and rice paste, the preparation process can take days or even months. Combining Kimchi Jjigae with other ingredients such as tofu, pork belly, and scallions creates a satisfying meal. Kimchi Jjigae is also versatile and can be adapted to suit personal tastes and preferences. For example, some Koreans prefer to add beef, tuna, clams, or mussels to the dish, while others enjoy it simply served over a bowl of rice. Regardless of the additional ingredients, this dish is well-known for its comforting spiciness and ability to refresh the palate.  The ease of preparation, combined with its transformative taste, makes Kimchi Jjigae a favorite for many.

6. Tom Yum, Thailand

Vegetable Tom Yum Soup. Alpha. CC BY-SA 2.0.

Tangy, spicy, and savory, Tom Yum is a popular and aromatic Thai soup that is made from a mix of fresh lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, galangal (a type of ginger), chilies, fish sauce, lime juice, and mushrooms. “Tom”refers to a boiling process, “Yam” is a spicy and sour salad, and "Kung" means shrimp. While you will likely find the refreshing soup cooked in every neighborhood, the history behind the dish largely remains unknown. Though there was no clear documentation of the origin of the soup, it is likely that the abundance of fresh shrimp in the Chao Phraya River in Thailand is believed to give rise to the sour, spicy soup. Over time, the three essential ingredients, lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, and galangal also evolved, while keeping its iconic flavor intact. For many Asians, Tom Yum is also a go-to remedy for colds and coughs, as the fresh herbs help soothe the body and warm the stomach.

7. Vindaloo, India

Vindaloo with other dishes. Bing. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

Vindaloo, hailing from Goa in western India, is known for its fiery heat and mouthwatering sourness. This Indian delicacy is crafted with a base of meat such as pork or chicken, which is seasoned with a blend of spices like chili peppers, ginger, garlic, cumin, coriander, turmeric, and vinegar. This mixture is then slow-cooked to create a luscious, delicious stew. The dish is typically served with rice or Indian bread, such as naan or roti, and is often accompanied by a variety of side dishes, including chutneys, pickles, and raita. 

8. Bun Bo Hue, Vietnam

Good strong beef broth and a clear chicken broth in Bun Bo Hue. Pho Hoang.CC BY-SA 2.0.

The Vietnam noodle soup of Bun Bo Hue boasts distinct and rich flavors from its thin round noodles, a blend of beef and pork, and a hearty, savory broth. To create the broth, cook beef bones or shank with lemongrass, then season with fermented shrimp sauce and sugar. Spicy chili oil is added later during the cooking process, giving the dish its signature reddish-brown hue. A meal full of flavors and textural contrasts, Bun Bo Hue has various flavors depending on its geographical origins and climate. The most authentic Bun Bo Hue usually appears in street food stalls in the city of Hue, along with traditional Hue salt coffee shops.

9. Hotpot, China

Farewell Hotpot. Momo. CC BY 2.0.

Hotpot readily comes to mind when discussing the world's spiciest dishes, but  is so much more than a scary, peppery soup. At its core, a hotpot is a simmering pot of robust broth that diners use to cook a variety of meats, vegetables, and noodles to their desired level of doneness. It is a classic representation of communal food culture in China, usually occupying the center of the table at a family gathering or new year's feast. A hot pot meal features a range of ingredients including beef, lamb, pork, seafood, sliced vegetables and greens, and quick-cooking noodles. The iconic Chongqing hotpot stands out for its blistering Sichuan pepper, and the region itself is known for incorporating spicy elements into most of its dishes, from soup to stir fry.



Hope Zhu

Hope is a Chinese international student at Wake Forest University in North Carolina studying sociology, statistics, and journalism. She dreams of traveling around the globe as a freelance reporter while touching on a wide range of social issues from education inequality to cultural diversity. Passionate about environmental issues and learning about other cultures, she is eager to explore the globe. In her free time, she enjoys cooking Asian cuisine, reading, and theater.

Frozen Zoos Might Be The Key to Saving Dying Species

The San Diego Frozen Zoo is the largest collection of animal gene samples in the world, and might be the answer to saving endangered animals from extinction.

A collection of vials containing gene samples from different species of animals. San Diego Zoo. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

Although the San Diego Zoo regularly receives a few million visitors every year, very few, if any at all, are aware of a collection much larger than the one on public display. Diligently maintained by a team of dedicated scientists and researchers, the San Diego Frozen Zoo houses gene samples from over 10,000 individual animals, all being preserved in the hopes that they will be able to help resurrect the rapidly dwindling populations of many at-risk species. It is the largest and most diverse collection of its kind in the world, and even includes a sample from the extinct po’ouli bird that vanished in 1988.

This ingenious strategy of species conservation can be traced back to the work of the German-American pathologist and geneticist Kurt Benirschke. He began his collection of skin samples from rare and endangered animals back in 1972 while working as a researcher with the University of California San Diego, and he quickly grew it into the very first cryobank of its kind at the San Diego Zoo. While Benirschke unfortunately passed away in 2018, his legacy is still very much alive in the continuing efforts of the growing team of scientists at the Frozen Zoo, who contribute their expertise on everything from recovery ecology and biodiversity banking to population sustainability and disease investigations.

Kurt Benirschke, the late scientist and founder of the San Diego Frozen Zoo. San Diego Zoo. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

Using cutting edge in vitro fertilization technologies, the Frozen Zoo has made huge strides towards developing a sustainable procedure, using artificially inseminating sperm that has been frozen for extended periods of time to produce viable offspring. Early attempts saw the successful development of cheetah and white rhino embryos in the lab, as well as the birth of chicks from a number of pheasant species, all from cryopreserved sperm. Perfecting this method would allow scientists to increase populations of rare and endangered species by introducing animals delivered in vitro back into the wild.

Another strategy the Frozen Zoo is looking into involves the genetic cloning of endangered species using the frozen genetic material in their collection. Since 2001, the zoo has cloned the Black-Footed Ferret, the Indian Gaur (an Asian humpbacked ox), the Banteng (a Southeast Asian species of cattle) and Przewalski’s Horse (a species from Mongolia that was extinct in the wild until not long ago). While their cloning process is still very much in the works, any advances in this type of cloning and genome sequencing can also be used to better understand the biology of endangered species in the wild and help with current conservation efforts.

Scientists from the Frozen Zoo successfully cloned a wild horse (center) believed to be extinct in the wild using cryopreserved sperm. Tanya Durrant. CC BY-ND 2.0.

One of the zoo’s most recent projects has a slightly different focus: they are putting together a database of unique barcodes to help identify species of primates and deer being transported as part of the illegal bushmeat trade. Another recent collaboration with The Scripps Research Institute involves members of the zoo’s Reproductive Sciences and Conservation Genetics teams looking for new state of the art stem cell technologies that could help to revive the critically endangered Northern White Rhino. This collaboration is also just the first step in the zoo’s goal to create a worldwide network of similar cryobanks, which  will share knowledge and resources to continue developing an even more diverse bank of genetic material in support of species conservation.

The Frozen Zoo stores thousands of samples of genetic materials in their cryobank. US Department of Agriculture. CC0.

For those interested in getting involved, the zoo runs a number of educational opportunities for high school and college students in the form of fellowships, internships and externships, as well as a master’s degree program in conjunction with Miami University, Ohio. They also have a regular schedule of seminars run by various experts in the field which are open to the public.



Tanaya Vohra

Tanaya is an undergraduate student pursuing a major in Public Health at the University of Chicago. She's lived in Asia, Europe and North America and wants to share her love of travel and exploring new cultures through her writing.

CATALYST Fall Reading List: Top 10 Books

Now that beach reads are back on the shelves, it’s time to cozy up with these fall titles. CATALYST provides ten of the hottest books right now to add to your bookshelf.

Finish your summer reading? Good, because CATALYST’s lineup of new books for the fall provides wondrous worlds to explore, without leaving the comfort of your favorite reading chair. From elegiac poetry to bracing memoir to transgenerational fiction, this list offers a diverse array of books that comprise a who’s who and what’s what of the literary world today. From some of literature’s biggest names to lesser-known geniuses, these books promise to widen your scope of what books can accomplish–and of where they can take you.

1. Young MungoDouglas Stuart

Douglas Stuart follows his worldwide sensation “Shuggie Bain” with this tender, brutal novel of young working-class love between two young men. Mungo and James are born on opposite factions of a sectarian divide- Mungo on the Protestant side and James on the Catholic side. Despite their differences, however, they forge a friendship – and something more – that simultaneously threatens life as they know it but promises to change it for the better. This heartbreaking novel ends with a search for both inner and outer peace that provokes thought as much as it does tears.

Colson Whitehead takes his reader back in time with his latest outing. “Harlem Shuffle” tells the story of the scrappy social climber Ray Carney, full-time furniture salesman and part-time crook, as he learns the true rules and rulers of his beloved New York City. When he takes part in a heist of Harlem’s most esteemed hotel, he puts his whole life in jeopardy. In lavish prose, Whitehead paints a vivid picture of Harlem in the 1960’s such that his novel becomes a love letter to a bygone era. But will Ray Carney be able to survive the twists and double-crosses that comprise his life-story and make it to the better neighborhood he has always dreamed of?

What do you get when you mix an audacious heist, a biting social commentary and a moving love story? You get Rahul Raina’s “How to Kidnap the Rich”. This hilariously chaotic novel follows Ramesh Kumar, a brilliant yet impoverished young man who serves India’s upper-class by acing SAT tests for children. When his client Rudi Saxena places first in the national university entrance exams, he seeks to capitalize on his success, only for both of them to be kidnapped. What follows is a thrilling page-turner replete with caustic barbs against India’s upper-class. A searing, incendiary novel, “How to Kidnap the Rich” will surely captivate any reader who delights in double-crosses and thought-provoking satire.

Living at the intersection of blackness and queerness, George M. Johnson is uniquely situated to perceive the injustices faced by queer Black youth. Perhaps that is why he wrote “All Boys Aren’t Blue” as a series of essays designed to advise and guide young adults, though the book’s messages resonate for readers of all ages. From being bullied as a young child, to his first sexual experiences, to the support network that saw him through his life’s worst travails, this book covers territory from which most authors shy away, but ultimately in the service of love, Johnson seeks to confront this territory. In telling his story, Johnson provides reader’s a mirror in which they can see themselves reflected. Hopefully, they will also see, as Johnson ultimately did, a path towards healing. 

This graphic novel explores the ambiguities of gender and sexuality, which is experienced at a young age in a political moment defined by anti-LGBTQ+ backlash. “Gender Queer” is the most banned book in the United States, according to the New York Times, thanks to conservative activist movements that object to its frank depictions of gender dysphoria, sex and sexuality. At heart, it is a compelling story of Maia Kobabe’s quest towards self-discovery as a non-binary person. Its gorgeous images and thoughtful meditations are the best alternative to a public debate around gender that grows more raucous by the day. 

From blue-bearded millionaires to ravenous wolves, the women of “How to Be Eaten” have survived some of fairy tales’ most devilish, nefarious men. Adelmann’s second book and first novel follows the female characters of some of the Brothers Grimm’s most famous yarns as they attend a trauma therapy group, where they process the immense harm done to them by their male counterparts. By turns wicked and uplifting, this book ultimately indicts the reader’s craving for a clear-cut happy ending. Sadly, love in Adelmann’s telling is not as easy as the Brothers Grimm would have us believe. 

Famed Nobel Prize winner Kazuo Ishiguro turns his incisive, writerly gaze to the sci-fi genre with “Klara and the Sun”. Lonesome yet insightful, Klara is a robot who watches the world pass by from her perspective in a shop that dispenses Artificial Friends. When her life stands to change forever, she finds that her hopes may have been misleading her all along. Told in Ishiguro’s subtle and revelatory voice, “Klara and the Sun” is an accomplished addition to the author’s already impressive body of work.

Author Iain Sinclair is famous for pushing and obscuring the boundaries between different media. In this book, he uses his multidisciplinary approach in the service of nonfiction. “The Gold Machine” relays his travels with his daughter through Peru following the trail of his great-grandfather. What he finds is the wreckage wrought by British colonialism and the still-open wounds of a country recovering from history. At once hypnotic and bracing, “The Gold Machine” charts colonialism’s legacy in the most personal of terms.

Ocean Vuong has catapulted poetry into the public spotlight with his arresting voice, palpable heart and his search for passion. He follows his autobiographical debut “On Earth We’re Briefly Gorgeous” with a second poetry collection, which continues the themes he has explored in his earlier poetry and fiction. Written in the wake of his mother’s death, Vuong captures the debilitating stagnation of grief but hints towards the means by which it is overcome. Inspiring, breathtaking and true, “Time Is a Mother” renews the reader’s faith in poetry to tell the heart’s most revealing secrets.

10. Homegoing Yaa Gyasi

As debut novels go, “Homegoing” is ambitious. It covers seven generations of a family’s history, tells that story from fourteen different perspectives and does it all in 300 pages. Despite the odds, the book soars. An almost impossibly moving novel about two sisters prohibited from knowing each other by the structures of British colonialism, Effie and Esi lead vastly different lives but are still in part defined by the racist eras they inhabit. From the Atlantic slave trade to the jazz clubs of Harlem, “Homegoing” captures the grief of the Ghanaian diaspora while illustarting  the beauty and love that emerged from tragedy.



Michael McCarthy

Michael is the CATALYST book editor and curator. His fiction, nonfiction, interviews, and book reviews have appeared in The Adroit Journal, Barzakh Magazine, Beyond Queer Words, and Prairie Schooner, among others. Currently, he is transferring from Haverford College to University of Carlos III in Madrid, Spain, where he intends to major in the Humanities. He is also seeking publication for his poetry chapbook Steve: An Unexpected Gift, written in memory of his late uncle. He can be reached at @michaelmccarthy8026.

The Trans-Siberian Railway and the Lost Art of Train Travel

The Trans-Siberian Railway, the longest railroad  line in the world, is an example of the joy that train travel can bring.

The Trans-Siberian Railway passes through Dornogovi, Mongolia. Boccaccio1. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

The popularity of railroad travel has diminished in the modern age. Cars allow for a freedom of movement that would be impossible on a train, and airplanes take the traveler farther and faster than railroads could dream of. The role of trains in the last 75 years has seemingly become filling in the gaps left by other forms of transportation. Stiff and awkward journeys of a few hours, connecting two cities with sterile cars and rusty tracks, are far too common, at least in the United States. But the beauty of a train trip is still attainable. Travelers can get a Eurail pass and travel across Europe, or take a private railway through rural Japan. Or they can do one better, and take the Trans-Siberian Railway.

Although it is actually a single collection of routes within the massive Russian rail network, the Trans-Siberian Railway is famous in its own right. It is the longest railway line in the world, with its longest route connecting Moscow and Vladivostok over 5,772 miles. It is also historic; the railway’s construction began in 1891 when Russia was still a Tsarist state, and it continues to be developed today.

Russia, especially Siberia, is not a place noted for its tourism. Yet the Trans-Siberian stands as a shining light in the nation’s wintery darkness. The railway is cheap, comfortable and most importantly, gives you that rollicking, adventurous spirit that only good train trips can.

A Trans-Siberian trip is also extremely flexible. One can start at St. Petersburg or Moscow and head east, or start in the east at Vladivostok or Beijing. Trains from Europe connect to the Trans-Siberian in St. Petersburg and Moscow, which means that it is possible to take a train trip from Paris all the way to the eastern coast of Asia.

The Trans-Siberian Railway in Irkutsk. Wazari Wazir. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

Something that differentiates railways from other modes of travel is that you can, and are supposed to, get off. The Trans-Siberian is no different. There are incredible landmarks at every stop on the journey; it’s easy to arrange to check out the ice lakes in Irkutsk or to visit the Naadam festival in Ulaanbaatar over the course of your trip.

Stepping off the train and seeing Siberia is part of the fun, and every traveler who rides the Trans-Siberian is encouraged to at least walk around a bit while the train is stopped at each station. But the train itself is an enjoyable space to live in. There are a few different options to choose from when buying tickets: most travelers choose second class (known as “kupé”), which reserves a spot in an air-conditioned car with four beds, but there is also the pricier first class (“spalny vagon”), a car with two beds, and third class (“platskartny”), an open car stuffed with fifty-four bunks. Travelers are sure to meet people in whatever class they choose, as late nights spent in the restaurant car playing cards and drinking vodka are common. Platskartny is probably the most genuine Trans-Siberian experience, as you will be surrounded by Russian commuters and travelers. But platskartny is also quite cramped and noisy, and the privilege of having a semi-private bathroom is lost. It is something to consider before you snap up a super-cheap ticket.

The Trans-Siberian Railway is not a tourist line; it is a real, historic railway that people around Asia use to see their families and take vacations themselves. As such, one should treat it and the people on it with respect. One should also do some more research about the train before planning a trip; there are many helpful websites with information about the Trans-Siberian, such as Seat 61’s extensive article

The Trans-Siberian Railway, overlooked to many outside Asia, is perhaps the last vestige of old-fashioned rail travel. As a consequence, it has a unique effect on the land it passes through. The secrets of Siberia would stay unseen on an airplane over 30,000 feet in the air. But n the railway, the place has no choice but to reveal itself. 



Finn Hartnett

Finn grew up in New York City and is now a first-year at the University of Chicago. In addition to writing for Catalyst, he serves as a reporter for the Chicago Maroon. He spends his free time watching soccer and petting his cat.

10 of the World’s Best Ecotourism Destinations

Ecotourism aims to preserve the environment while allowing travelers to get a glimpse of the natural world. These 10 destinations are sustainable travel options that will broaden visitors’ understanding of the environment along with other cultures. 

Sustainable tourism seeks to strike a balance between the environmental, cultural and economic impacts of tourism, and many destinations around the world are moving toward the model. Ecotourism is a subset of sustainable tourism that focuses specifically on the environment. The International Ecotourism Society defines ecotourism as “responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment, sustains the well-being of the local people, and involves interpretation and education.” Ecotourism is not just about seeing stunning parts of the natural world, but about trips that curate awareness of and respect for the global environment and cultures. These 10 destinations are sure to provide memorable travel experiences while heightening visitors’ understanding of the social, political and environmental climates of the places they’re exploring. 

1. Galapagos Islands, Ecuador

In 1978, the Galapagos Islands became one of the world’s first UNESCO World Heritage Sites, protected for their unusual plant and animal life that famously inspired Charles Darwin’s theory of evolution. The 19 islands, located about 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador, are home to giant tortoises, land iguanas and many subspecies of finches, as well as huge cactuses and trees unique to the islands. Ninety-seven percent of the islands have been part of a national park since 1959, and human settlement, including tourism infrastructure, is restricted to the remaining 3%. The islands are a paradise of natural beauty, and over 150,000 travelers visit annually. The Galapagos National Park Directorate and the Ecuadorian Ministry of Tourism have implemented regulations that ensure visitors get to explore the islands without harming the environment. The entrance fee that visitors pay for the national park is used to fund conservation projects, the number of tourists at each site at a given time is limited and all travelers are required to have a guide with them as they admire the islands. These guides are trained to educate the visitors and protect the sites, and are often local people, which ensures that travel benefits the local economy. 

Social issues: A current issue faced by the local population is the islands’ limited health care system, which consists widely of small, understaffed clinics. Ecuador is preparing for a runoff election for the presidential race, which will take place on April 11. Young people and women are major voter blocs in the election, hoping for policies that will address Ecuador’s economic crisis, inequality and rise in violence toward women. 

2. Costa Rica

Over a quarter of Costa Rica’s land is protected from future development. Costa Rica boasts incredible biodiversity, with thousands of different plant and animal species. The journey toward ecotourism in Costa Rica began in 1963 with the establishment of the Cabo Blanco National Reserve. The establishment of national parks quickly followed, and today Costa Rica has 70 separate entities within its park system. Visitors to Costa Rica will see a variety of ecosystems including cloud forests, rainforests, wetlands and coastal marine areas, all bursting with breathtaking plant and animal life. Places to visit include Arenal Volcano National Park, Cano Island Biological Reserve, Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve and Ballena Marine National Park, though these are only a few of Costa Rica’s many stunning natural destinations. Most of these protected areas limit the number of visitors inside at any given time in order to prevent damage to the environment. The Costa Rican Tourism Board has introduced the Certificate for Sustainable Tourism (CST), which rates businesses, such as tour operators and hotels, on a scale of 0 to 5 based on their environmental, social and economic involvement and impact. The CST system allows tourists to make informed decisions and ensure that their trip is a sustainable one. 

Social Issues: A 2020 report revealed that Costa Rica was facing political fragmentation, economic slowdown and increased inequality.  Costa Rica’s two major political parties, the National Liberation Party and the Social Christian Unity Party, both recently suffered splits, creating more competing parties. Economic growth has declined, leading to an increase in unemployment rates, and the COVID-19 pandemic has only worsened the situation. The drug trafficking issues that have faced other Central American countries like Honduras and El Salvador have crept into Costa Rica, spurring an increase in violent crimes. 

3. Sabah, Malaysia

Sandakan, in Malaysia’s Sabah state, is home to the Sukau Rainforest Lodge, a lodge designed to be as eco-friendly as possible while still offering guests a comfortable and memorable experience. The lodge opened in 1995 and was the first in the area built on ecotourism principles. It is known as an ecolodge, a lodge which embodies the principles of ecotourism: protection and conservation of nature, benefiting the local community and offering programs to educate travelers about the natural and cultural environments they are visiting. A few of Sukau’s eco-friendly practices include rainwater harvesting, which makes the lodge 100% self-reliant for water, no radio or television in the rooms to eliminate some noise pollution and let guests focus on nature, employing a staff made up of 90% Indigenous people, and contributing $16,400 annually to conservation projects in addition to conservation levies collected from guests. A full list of Sukau’s sustainable policies can be found here on the lodge’s website. The lodge rises on stilts over the bank of the Kinabatangan River in Borneo, immersed in nature. Visitors to the lodge will have ample opportunities to spot orangutans, pygmy elephants, proboscis monkeys and hornbills in their natural habitat. Sukau offers a number of tour packages to explore Borneo by land or boat and experience its unique landscapes. 

Social Issues: In 2020, Malaysia’s government, headed by Prime Minister Muhyiddin Yassin, cracked down on protests and critical speech, began regulating freedom of expression and started taking a harsh stance on refugees, saying that they have no status or rights within the country. 

4. Rwanda

Rwanda has enjoyed a major tourism boom in recent years, and the country has made a strong effort to promote ecotourism. Known as “the land of a thousand hills,” Rwanda is full of beautiful, green landscapes, bamboo forests, volcanoes and incredible animal life, such as the endangered mountain gorilla. A number of new ecolodges have been constructed and are helping to fund reforestation efforts for indigenous trees. Rwanda’s number one ecotourism attraction is Volcanoes National Park, which is home to the mountain gorilla population. The park protects the Virunga Mountains, a chain of dormant volcanoes in the far northwestern corner of the country. The park encompasses a wealth of ecosystems, including evergreen and bamboo forests, sprawling grasslands and swamps. Visitors to the park can purchase tracking permits that allow them to go on mountain gorilla safaris and surround themselves with these amazing animals. The proceeds from the tracking permits go to improving the community development of areas around the park. There are a number of other locations for sustainable wildlife safaris in Rwanda, like Nyungwe Forest National Park and Akagera National Park. Visitors seeking to immerse themselves in local culture should explore the Iby’Iwacu Cultural Village, a traditional Rwandan village located within Volcanoes National Park. Stays in the village can be booked through Gorilla Guardians, a nonprofit organization that aims to improve the lives of reformed poachers and communities around the park. Visitors must abide by a set of sustainable living guidelines as they receive guided tours of the community from locals, learn about the area’s history and experience traditional arts practices, in order to ensure that travel is beneficial to both the tourists and the local community. 

Social Issues: Rwanda was the site of mass genocide in 1994, when members of the Hutu ethnic majority murdered around 800,000 people, mostly members of the Tutsi minority. As of 2020, the masterminds of the Rwanda genocide were still being brought to justice in international courts. In 2018, Rwanda implemented major legislative reforms, including a revised penal code, a new code of criminal procedure, and counterterrorism legislation. The country still faces strong limits of freedom of expression, with critical speech resulting in incarceration and even enforced disappearances. 

5. Bocas del Toro, Panama

Sometimes called the “Galapagos of the Caribbean,” Bocas del Toro, off the northern coast of Panama, is a haven of biological diversity and spectacular scenery. Made up of nine islands, the archipelago is home to Isla Bastimentos National Park, Panama’s first national marine park. Visitors to Bocas del Toro can zip line through the rainforest, scuba dive in tropical coral reefs, swim with manatees, learn to surf in the Caribbean and sail from island to island to see what each has to offer. Playa Larga on Isla Bastimentos is an annual nesting site for four endangered species of sea turtles. Isla Bastimentos National Park also protects diverse forests, 28 species of amphibians and reptiles, monkeys, sloths and crocodiles. Visitors can go on tours of the islands led by members of Bocas del Toro’s Indigenous tribe, known as the Ngobe-Bugle, to learn more about the area’s history and culture while admiring the plant and animal life. 

Social Issues: A significant issue in Panama is poverty. There is a large wealth gap between urban and rural areas; rural areas are less aided by economic booms and have worse access to good health care and education. Rural areas that are largely inhabited by the Indigenous population are especially impacted by this wealth gap, with 86% of Panama’s Indigenous population living in poverty. 

6. Sorsogon, Philippines

Located in Sorsogon province in the Philippines, Bulusan Volcano Natural Park is home to a wide range of natural features that make it a great destination for nature lovers. The park surrounds the active Bulusan Volcano and includes lush rainforest, two gorgeous lakes and two large mountain peaks. Visitors can kayak, hike, climb, see indigenous plants and animals, and visit local villages within the park. A number of local communities still flourish in the park, using the lower slopes of the mountains as agricultural lands. Many Indigenous people in the Bulusan Volcano Natural Park area have been trained as guides, allowing visitors to get a firsthand perspective of the park’s culture and environment and providing income for local communities. While in Sorsogon, visitors can also arrange to visit Donsol, where they can see whale sharks up close.

Social Issues: The government of the Philippines is still engaged in its violent “war on drugs,” which began in 2016. The campaign targets mainly impoverished Filipinos in urban areas, and killings by the police related to the “war on drugs” are rampant. Freedom of speech is limited, as those critical of the government face harassment and a number of journalists have been murdered in work-related attacks. 

7. Raja Ampat, Indonesia

The Raja Ampat archipelago, located just off the tip of Bird’s Head Peninsula in the West Papua province of Indonesia, consists of more than 1,500 islands. Raja Ampat is extremely remote, meaning it has remained in nearly pristine condition, with white sand beaches, sparkling blue waters, interesting caves and jungle-covered hills that make it known as one of the most beautiful archipelagos in the world. Raja Ampat is also a biological hot spot, rife with varied marine life. The area’s extensive coral reef makes it a major attraction for divers and other visitors who want to experience the natural majesty of the islands. As tourism began to rise in the formerly remote area, the government and nonprofit conservation organizations recognized the necessity of protecting the area’s incredible biodiversity and quickly implemented sustainable ecotourism policies. Numerous programs about Raja Ampat’s ecosystem were developed to educate visitors and locals alike about the need for conservation. The tourism industry is also mainly staffed by local islanders, allowing them to share their culture with visitors while advancing their livelihoods. Tourists can choose from a number of ecolodges to stay in and tour with, such as Papua Explorers. 

Social Issues: LGBTQ+ rights have long been under fire in Indonesia, used as a rallying cry and platform for conservative social and political groups. The rights to freedom of expression and peaceful assembly are limited, and human rights defenders are often criminalized. 

8. Mai Chau, Vietnam

In the Mai Chau Valley, located roughly 90 miles outside of Vietnam’s capital of Hanoi, traditional villages lie among rice paddy fields and border towering mountains. Mai Chau is full of functional communities and is a popular destination for visitors seeking to immerse themselves in local culture while surrounded by some of Vietnam’s most remarkable scenery. Mai Chau is home to multiple homestay villages, where visitors can stay overnight in stilt houses around Hieu village. Those staying in Mai Chau homestays will eat home-cooked meals and can explore the villages and purchase local crafts. The valley has no shortage of day hikes, and travelers can even rent bicycles to ride from village to village. Mai Chau is located near Hoa Binh Lake and the Pu Luong Nature Reserve, where visitors can see even more of the beautiful ecosystems Vietnam has to offer. Tourism in the Mai Chau Valley is sustainable because it educates visitors about the local culture and environment and stimulates the local economy while having very few negative impacts on the region. 

Social Issues: Vietnam has harsh restrictions on freedom of expression, peaceful assembly, association, movement and religion. Political detainees are often held for months without access to legal counsel, and the treatment they face in custody is often violent. Vietnam’s cybersecurity laws allow the government to block websites critical of the ruling party. 

9. St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands

In the Caribbean Sea, about 1,000 miles southeast of Florida, are the U.S. Virgin Islands. One of the islands in the group, St. John, is a pioneer of ecotourism. Two-thirds of St. John’s surface area and shoreline waters are set aside as the Virgin Islands National Park, making it the best preserved of the U.S. Virgin Islands. In the water surrounding the island are hundreds of coral gardens, which make up the Virgin Islands Coral Reef National Monument and are protected by strictly enforced laws to prevent damage to the coral. St. John has very little commercial development; the island has no airport, no large cruise dock and no high-rise buildings. The natural integrity of the island is nearly untouched, making it one of the best places in the world to get a real ecotourism experience. Visitors to St. John can explore the national park and learn about the area’s history, seeing petroglyphs carved by the Taino people and the sites of former sugar plantations. Visitors can also relax on pristine beaches, snorkel among the reefs, hike through historic ruins, and sail on crystal-clear waters. There are a number of eco-friendly resorts to choose from in St. John, many of which are campgrounds that offer tents and small cabins. 

Social Issues: The U.S. Virgin Islands are fairly dependent on tourism to support their economy. In 2017, two devastating hurricanes, Irma and Maria, hit the islands, inflicting extensive damage and leading to a decrease in revenue which the islands are still trying to recover from. 

10. Auroville, India

Auroville, in the Tamil Nadu state of India, is a very unique destination. Auroville is an experimental township that aims to be a “universal town,” where people of all backgrounds can live together in harmony with each other and with nature. Auroville was founded in 1968 by Mirra Alfassa, who is referred to as “The Mother,” and was designed by architect Roger Anger. The township runs on green practices, such as renewable energy, growing some of its own food through farming, recycling wastewater and working to protect the environment with a successful reforestation campaign. The township is financed partially by the government of India, which mostly gives money for education and projects, and partially by nongovernmental organizations, tourists and donors from around the world. Around half of the residents of Auroville are foreign, but they take care not to impose their culture on India, instead hoping to learn about the local culture. They also share their developments in farming with the villages around Auroville. 

Visitors to Auroville can book tours to experience life in the town, or stay for longer in one of Auroville’s guest houses. Those who come are strongly encouraged to acquaint themselves with the local culture of areas around Auroville to ensure that their visit is respectful. Auroville also runs a number of volunteer programs, where people from all over stay in the town and work on projects that include farming, animal care, education and renewable energy. 


Social Issues: In 2020, hundreds of people remained detained without charge in Jammu and Kashmir, under an Indian law that allows detention without trial for up to two years. Freedom of expression is limited, and journalists often face threats, criminal cases and even assault.



Rachel Lynch

Rachel is a student at Sarah Lawrence College in Bronxville, NY currently taking a semester off. She plans to study Writing and Child Development. Rachel loves to travel and is inspired by the places she’s been and everywhere she wants to go. She hopes to educate people on social justice issues and the history and culture of travel destinations through her writing.