An Epic Motorbike Journey Through Northeast Vietnam

The Ha Giang Loop offers travelers a unique way to experience the natural beauty of Vietnam.

Mountain View on the Ha Giang Loop, Harper Noteboom.

Nestled against the southern Chinese border, the Ha Giang province serves as the great final frontier of Vietnam. The region is characterized by its striking limestone peaks, steep drop-off valleys and quaint roadside villages. Despite its natural beauty, its remoteness, at approximately 300 km outside of Hanoi, makes it less frequented among tourists. When I first embarked on my five-month solo trip through Southeast Asia, I had never heard of Ha Giang or the experiences it offered. But within a few weeks, I began to hear conversations about the region and the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to be a passenger on or, for the braver travelers, to drive a motorbike for three days through lush valleys full of hairpin turns. Despite these conversations, nothing could have prepared me for the life-changing experience of the Ha Giang Loop. 

In the pre-dawn hours, our overcrowded semi-sleeper bus from Hanoi pulled into the city of Ha Giang. By 10 AM the street outside Jasmine Hostel was full of eager backpackers and their motorbikes. Being an inexperienced driver I opted to hire an easier ride, a Ha Giang local who would drive while I sat on the back. I would quickly be reassured that this was the right choice when I saw the injuries that a crash can inflict. We were sectioned off into groups of 15 and hit the road. 

Traffic jam on the Bac Sum Pass. Harper Noteboom 

We spent the first few hours of our drive traveling north out of the city of Ha Giang and over the Bac Sum pass. The first of many steep and narrow passes, Bac Sum is a 4.3 mile stretch of sharp zigzag turns at an altitude of 1475 feet. I was immediately encapsulated by the stunning mountain peaks that rose around me and began to understand its common nickname “Heaven Gate;” I truly felt like I was transcending the Earth and moving up into the Heavens. 

Throughout the day we made several stops to enjoy the view, take a necessary break from sitting, and eat some lunch. As we pulled away from one of our stops, I suddenly felt the bike start to slow down and emit a horrible creaking sound. We came to a complete stop and I watched as the rest of the group sped past leaving my driver and me in their dust. Suddenly I found myself completely alone on the side of a mountain with a driver who spoke no English and had no way to contact my friends. Through lots of pointing, I was instructed to sit down next to the bike and wait while my driver walked off to call someone. As I was sitting wondering how far ahead my friends were, two little girls appeared from their small roadside village and began to show me the flowers they had picked. Without any verbal communication we were able to appreciate the beauty of their flowers together. These girls belong to one of the many ethnic minority groups in the Ha Giang region. The loop not only serves as a beautiful journey for adventurous travelers but also as a lifeline between small, isolated minority communities and the modern world. In this small interaction, I was reminded of the true reason I was traveling, to experience and connect with people and cultures that were different from my own. 

Roadside Village. Harper Noteboom

Eventually, the leader of my group returned and put me on the back of his bike, he turned to me and said “Hold on tight we need to catch up”. And just like that, I was on my way to our homestay for the night. We closed out our first day with a delicious meal of authentic H’mong cuisine and shots of rice wine, accompanied by a chant-like toast from the group leaders. 

Pass along the Dong Van Plateau. Sabourock. CC BY-SA 4.0

We started day two with a visit to Kings' Royal Palace, the home of the traditional leader of the Hmong ethnic group. The 19th-century mansion, built fully by hand, combines Hmong, Chinese and French architecture and serves as both a majestic home and a protected army base. The palace's harmonic design and original furnishings transport the visitor back in time and give a real glance into the life of the Hmong King. After indulging in a traditional Vietnamese coffee, we took a brief drive to Lung Cu Flag Tower. At over 35 meters tall, the octagon-shaped tower sits at the northernmost point of Vietnam and represents unity and independence for the country, offering a panoramic view across the Chinese border. After our morning of traveling back in time, we departed for what would be one of the most terrifying, gut-wrenching and inspiring experiences of my life, the Skywalk. 

Entrance to Kings' Royal Palace. Gavin White. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Describing exactly what the Skywalk is and what it truly feels like to be there is no easy task. The beginning of the trail is extremely narrow and hugs the side of a mountain while snaking along its exterior. The short walk itself is nothing compared to the destination. A massive mound of rocks stretches out over the edge of a cliff and seems so perfectly balanced that a single shift would result in the complete crumbling of the cliff and all the people on it. From the side, one long, narrow, flat rock extends out from the rest. While barely big enough for two people and high enough that a misstep would result in a deadly drop, there was a long line of eager backpackers waiting for their turn to cautiously creep out onto the rock. When it was my turn to go, I was overwhelmed with fear and even glancing down sent my stomach into my chest, but I carefully and slowly crept to the edge and sat down. As I looked out at the 360-degree view of the sharp peaks and luscious fields below me, I felt like I was truly the queen of the world. In this moment I had a realization, this is what traveling is all about, this is what life is all about; it’s about facing your fears to fully take in the beautiful world that we are so blessed to explore. The memory of this moment is one I return to often, and I revel in the euphoria of travel and the beauty of experience. 

Skywalk. Harper Noteboom 

I rode the high of that moment for the rest of our drive to the quaint village where we would stay for the night. The following morning, as a final send-off, we took a cruise down the limestone-crested Tu San Canyon before our long, bumpy, and admittedly very dusty journey back to the city before catching our even longer bus back to Hanoi. 

Tu San Canyon. Ryan Le. CC0 

As I reflect on these 3 marvelous days, there's no way to describe the life-altering effect that the Ha Giang loop has had on me. I never thought I would have the chance to soar through epic mountain ranges on the back of a motorbike with some of my best friends, but I’m overjoyed that I did and I urge everyone who is visiting Vietnam to experience the Ha Giang Loop. 

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Harper Noteboom

Harper is a student at Pomona College majoring in Computer Science while exploring many interests in the liberal arts nature. Her worldly curiosity and passion for traveling took her to The Netherlands for High School and then on a gap year around Southeast Asia. Harper hopes to share the immense joy of traveling through her writing. 

Into the Inferno: 6 Destinations with Ever-Lasting Flames

From Australia to Ethiopia, destinations with seemingly eternal flames attract explorers from around the world.

Eternal Flame Falls, New York. Kim Carpenter. CC BY 2.0

Natural gasses, when combined with geologic, volcanic or industrial activities, have led fires that burn for tens to thousands of years. These marvels have created wonder, inspired myths and served as resources. Drawing people from around the globe, eternal flames continue to ignite the minds of travelers.

Baba Gurgur, Iraq

Fire in an oil field, Kirkuk, Iraq. KURDISTAN🌟 كوردستان. CC BY-SA 2.0

A fire has burned outside of Kirkuk, Iraq for an estimated 4,000 years. Baba Gurgur, roughly meaning "Father of the Fire" in Kurdish, is a circular area covered in holes bursting with smokeless flames. 

These flames are fed by natural gas from beneath the ground combined with flammable liquid derived from petroleum called naphtha. There is ample oil and natural gas at this site, considering Baba Gurgur was the world’s largest oil field when it was discovered in 1927.

In addition to Baba Gurgur, the Citadel is another one of Kirkuk’s primary tourist attractions. Built in the 9th century BC, the Kirkuk Citadel is a UNESCO World Heritage Site containing a market, a church and many mosques.

Burning Mountain, Australia

Smoke at the Burning Mountain Nature Reserve, Australia. Tatters ✾. CC BY-NC 2.0

A coal seam that has burned in Australia for an estimated 5,500 years can be found at the Burning Mountain Nature Reserve. Many Aboriginal Australians believe that the smoke and flames of the Burning Mountain are the tears of a woman who the sky god Biami turned to stone. Burning Mountain long served as a source of heat for the Wanaruah people, the traditional owners of the land.

Throughout the two-and-a-half-mile Burning Mountain walk, explorers can find an abundance of viewing platforms and opportunities to learn from informational panels. During an adventure to see Burning Mountain, travelers can also enjoy walks and picnics surrounded by nature and breathtaking views.

Erta Ale, Ethiopia

Lava lake in the Erta Ale volcano, Ethiopia.Thomas Maluck. CC BY-ND 2.0

Ethiopia’s Erta Ale volcano has been home to an inferno for decades. The active shield volcano contains lava lakes in both the northern and southern craters and is Ethiopia’s most active volcano. This phenomenon is a result of three tectonic plates separating and creating channels for magma to rise to the Earth’s surface. 

Erta Ale means the "gateway to hell" in the local Afar language. Erta Ale’s lava lakes have burned since at least 1967, and possibly for over a century, making the volcano home to one of the few consistent lava lakes in the world. Erta Ale has become a popular tourist destination, and travelers can safely witness this natural wonder by taking tours.

The Door to Hell, Turkmenistan

The Door to Hell, Turkmenistan. Martha de Jong-Lantink. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

The burning pit in a remote region of Turkmenistan, internationally famous as the "Door to Hell," has burned for over 50 years. The story goes that the Door to Hell was set alight when an oil rig was lit on fire after falling into the crater.

Despite being one of the most closed-off countries in the world, many travelers have successfully ventured to Turkmenistan to experience the roar of the Door to Hell’s flames firsthand.

Home to one of the largest gas deposits in the world, oil and gas are important natural resources in Turkmenistan. Despite many failed attempts in the past, Turkmenistan’s government officials have expressed intent to get rid of the Door to Hell in an effort to conserve natural gas.

The Fire and Water Spring, Taiwan

The Fire and Water Spring, Taiwan. Amy Ross. CC BY-ND 2.0

The Fire and Water Spring is a unique place where fire and water co-exist in harmony. Taiwan is covered by fault lines that leak natural gasses such as methane. 

The Fire and Water Spring is above one of these fault lines, so the water that flows from the cliff walls is accompanied by natural gas. The natural gas, kept alight by the heat of the stone, has burned for over 300 years, according to locals.

During the trek to the Fire and Water Spring, adventurers can come across the Biyun Temple, in addition to a variety of treats like Chinese Mesona provided by street vendors. The Biyun Temple is over 300 years old and is home to many shrines.

Yanartas, Turkey

The flames of Yanartaş, Turkey. Veyis Polat. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Yanartas, meaning "burning rock" in Turkish, and also known as the Chimera, is a crop of flames coming from rocks that overlook the Cirali village in Turkey. The flames come from methane gas, which has seeped through the Mt. Olympos slopes for thousands of years. 

Some who experienced the flames during ancient times believed them to be the breath of a monster that combined the characteristics of lions, snakes and goats. Now, the flames serve as a pit stop for hikers along the Lycian Way.

The Yanartas is a place of great historical significance. The glow of the Yanartas flames was used as a landmark by sea travelers for centuries. At the entrance of the Yanartas site explorers will find an ancient church, and buried beneath the flames lie the remains of the Temple of the Greek god Hephaestus

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Madison Paulus

Madison is a student at George Washington University studying international affairs, journalism, mass communication, and Arabic. Born and raised in Seattle, Washington, Madison grew up in a creative, open-minded environment. With passions for human rights and social justice, Madison uses her writing skills to educate and advocate. In the future, Madison hopes to pursue a career in science communication or travel journalism.

The Oldest Russian Theatre is in Latvia

The Mikhail Chekhov Riga Russian Theater in Riga, Latvia, faced political censorship under the Soviets but managed to keep its doors open.

Riga Russian Theater, 2018. Olaf Meister. CC BY-SA 4.0

Established in 1883, the Mikhail Chekhov Riga Russian Theater was the first of two kinds: the first professional theater in Latvia and the first Russian-language theater outside Russia. Before it was founded, there were no permanent Russian theaters in the capital city, only the occasional amateur performance, and it is thus deeply rooted in the history and development of professional theater in Latvia. Today the theater offers a mix of classical plays and modern, experimental works.

In 2006, the theater, known previously as the Riga Russian Drama Theater, was rechristened the Mikhail Chekhov Riga Russian Theater as a tribute to the actor, director and teacher, who spent two years working in Riga in the 1930s. A friend of Chekhov’s, Janis Karklinsh, quoted one of Chekhov's interviews with the Latvian press from this time: "Great nations crumble under the outcome of materialism and lust for power. The revival of art comes through the small nations.'' It was Chekhov’s opinion that the cultural context of Latvia in the early 1930s was the best ground for "real art.” Germany and France treated art as a "pretty cheap kind of entertainment.” “New art" could only be born in a developing country that was in the midst of cultural renewal. While in Riga, Chekhov directed and acted in five performances. 

The theater continuously confronted the issue of a lack of funding. In the early 1900s, a committee known as the ​​Society of the Guarantors of the Russian Theater in Riga was formed with the task of ensuring “the permanent existence of the Russian theater in Riga.” The First World War disrupted these efforts, and for a period of time between 1915 and 1921, the theater ceased operations. In 1921, the Latvian government made the decision to allocate close to $1,700 a year in order to “support the theaters of national minorities—German, Jewish, Russian” and the theater was able to resume its activities.

On August 5th, 1940, Latvia was occupied by the Soviet Union. Around 35,000 Latvians were killed or deported during the occupation between 1940 and 1941. As a result, the Riga Theater became a public theater and was cut off from its financial support from private entities, facing the political censorship that was common under Soviet occupation. It was not until 1998, less than a decade after Latvia had regained its independence from the USSR, that the Society of Guarantors was revived and the theater could once again receive financial donations.

The theater employs directors and designers from all parts of Europe, including Belarus, Estonia, Lithuania, Germany, Sweden, Italy, and more. Following the tradition of Russian theater, the company often performs pieces that include music and dance, though its repertoire is by no means limited to musicals. Directors employed by the theater strive to choose works that are profound and psychologically provocative in nature and push the boundaries of  drama itself. 

The theater retains a permanent troupe of actors as well as a repertoire of Russian, Latvian and international works, as well as works by young, emerging playwrights. In 2018, the theater inaugurated a studio for children and youth, ages seven to twelve, to train in the performing arts and develop skills in confidence and communication. Although the studio had to pause its workshops during COVID-19, as of 2024 they have resumed.

According to its website, the theater “harmoniously lives in the cross-cultural space, participates in the cultural dialogue—both nationally and internationally,” making it a significant cultural institution for Latvia.

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Rebecca Pitcairn

Rebecca studies Italian Language and Literature, Classical Civilizations, and English Writing at the University of Pittsburgh. She hopes to one day attain a PhD in Classical Archeology. She is passionate about feminism and climate justice. She enjoys reading, playing the lyre, and longboarding in her free time.

7 Digital Safety Tips for Travelers

With about 25% of travelers experiencing data compromise while traveling and using public Wi-Fi, understanding digital security is a necessary aspect of preparing for a trip. 

Internet security padlock. www.vpnsrus.com. CC BY 2.0

Along with physical safety, digital security is another essential part of traveling. There are many digital security risks to be mindful of. The most common risks include public, unsecured wifi networks, public computers and devices, and the physical theft of devices. Despite these risks, there are many measures travelers can take to enhance their digital security.

1. Update Software

Software concept (gear on digital background). Craig Taylor. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

Updated apps and operating system software can improve your device’s defense against malware. It is important to update everything before traveling, on a trusted network. This is because malware can be disguised as updates or patches when they’re prompted through an unsecured network.

2. Backup Information

Backup loading. Brian J. Matis. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

Backing up things like photos, contacts and documents to a cloud service or other devices is another step to enhance your digital security, because that content is no longer easily accessible through your device. Common cloud services include DropBox, Google Docs and iCloud.

3. Disable Bluetooth

Bluetooth. Brad Wilmot. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Bluetooth can be handy for connecting to other devices such as sound systems, but these connections can put your devices at risk. Some devices automatically connect to Bluetooth and wireless networks, so disabling this function helps you control your connections.

Because connecting with a device via Bluetooth often stores your personal information on the device, it is recommended to avoid allowing Bluetooth connections with a device that is not your own, including rental car sound systems. If you do choose to connect to a device that is not yours, make sure to remove your device from the paired device lists and delete any data that was stored.

4. Be Conscious of your Connections, Clicks and Downloads

Free Wi-Fi sign. Mike Gifford. CC BY-NC 2.0

Connections, clicks and downloads can allow malware and other digital security risks to access your devices. Public wifi networks are often unsecured, and can be easily hacked because they’re accessible to everyone, don’t require authentication, and may have weak encryption protocols. 

While connecting to public wifi networks can be necessary when traveling, it is important to confirm the network and login procedures with staff before connecting. Confirming the network and login procedures can protect you from cybercrime because fake wifi networks can appear legitimate. While connected, avoid activities that involve personal information such as logging into accounts, shopping or online banking. 

If you receive unknown links, delete them and avoid clicking. Prompts to download anything like apps or documents should also be declined unless you were expecting the prompt and trust the source.

5. Use Multi-Factor Authentication

Two-factor authentication demonstration. Sergejf. CC BY 2.0

Multi-Factor Authentication (MFA) can help keep your data secure even if a password has been compromised. MFA consists of using multiple means of verifying a login, such as a password combined with a verification text, email or call. If you have a device or accounts that do not automatically have MFA, you can download apps such as Duo Multi-Factor Authentication to further secure your data.

6. Use a VPN

VPN key. www.comparitech.com/. CC BY 2.0

Virtual Private Networks (VPNs) can enhance data security by encrypting internet traffic and data. This means that you can connect to public networks and cybercriminals will not be able to access your activity. Another perk of using VPNs while traveling is that you can trick your devices into thinking that you’re still home, accessing your home versions of platforms such as Netflix.

7. Bring a Portable Charger

Portable chargers. Dennis van Zuijlekom. CC BY-SA 2.0

Ensuring you have charged devices while traveling is important for physical safety, however there are ways that charging your device can be risky. Charging your device through other devices that you do not control, including computers or hotel docking stations can put your device at risk of malware transfer through that connection. 

Even public outlets can be a risk. While there have not been any reported cases, cybersecurity experts have warned that cybercriminals are able to put malware into USB ports, including USB charging stations that are common at airports and hotels. This process is called ‘juice-jacking’. Because of the risks associated with public outlets and charging stations, it is recommended to bring portable chargers. If you must connect to another charging source and are prompted to select whether you trust the device, always say no.

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Madison Paulus

Madison is a student at George Washington University studying international affairs, journalism, mass communication, and Arabic. Born and raised in Seattle, Washington, Madison grew up in a creative, open-minded environment. With passions for human rights and social justice, Madison uses her writing skills to educate and advocate. In the future, Madison hopes to pursue a career in science communication or travel journalism.

Italian Night Life Thrives in Abandoned Buildings

Thanks to self-managed social centers, Italians have found a space to enjoy concerts, dinners, movie nights and more

Concert at XM24. Zeroincondotta. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0 

Since the 1970s, self-managed social centers have offered a place for Italians to gather as a community. Usually located on the outskirts of cities, these centers are established and operated entirely by locals. They are often formed as a direct response to social issues such as lack of affordable housing, drug addiction and marginalization. Members of the community occupy buildings that have fallen into disuse, such as schools, apartment complexes, forts and even farms. 

CSOA Forte Prenestino. boklm. CC0 1.0

The legal status of these centers varies, and some face eviction by authorities despite their value to the community. Many of the centers take a strong political stance, defining themselves as anti-fascist, anti-sexist, anti-racist and anti-capitalist. These spaces serve as important refuges for members of the community and a place for diverse groups of people to meet and collaborate.

Concert at XM24. Zeroincondotta. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0 

One of the most famous of these self-managed social centers was XM24, or ExMarket, of Bologna. It emerged during a period of repression as the mayor of the city engaged in a campaign against social housing and squatter movements. The center established itself in several abandoned spaces, including a former fruit and vegetable market from which it took its name. It offered a number of services to the community, including a cafe, a bike shop, a vegetable garden, live concerts, a gym, and a dormitory for migrants, refugees and the houseless. It was run by a general assembly of local volunteers.

XM24 Graffiti, Against those who close our spaces, let’s ignite our rage. Zeroincondotta. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

In 2013, XM24 was able to reach an agreement with the local government, allowing the center to operate independently and utilize the abandoned spaces. However, the agreement expired in 2017. Members of the community attempted to protest the eviction in a struggle with the city that lasted two years, but in 2019 the space was evicted and bulldozers arrived to clear it out. As of 2024, the center no longer exists. 

Leoncavallo Spazio Pubblico Autogestito. Robertino Radovix. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0 

XM24 was not the only self-managed center to be evicted by the government, but many centers have still found a way to thrive. The Leoncavallo Spazio Pubblico Autogestito of Milan still offers jazz concerts, stand-up comedy, dinners, English lessons and more to locals. It is currently open Thursdays through Sundays in the afternoon and evening, although they face eviction on June 18th, 2024 by the bailiff and the property’s lawyers. 

Daniele Sepe & Aldolà Chivalà. L’Asilo. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0 

Je So’ Pazzo is a self-managed center in the Marterdei district on the outskirts of the city of Naples in a former asylum for the criminally insane. When it was occupied in 2015, it was managed by the Penitentiary Police. Volunteers collaborate with local associations to house, collect clothing for and distribute meals to the houseless. Their services include medical clinics, psychiatric support and migrant aid. They also offer a number of recreational activities, such as Naples’ only indoor rock climbing wall, a football pitch, a gym, a theater, a bar, social dinners, concerts, and so much more. It is still active and open 24 hours a day, six days a week. Like most places in Italy, it is closed on Sundays.

Concert at CPA, Firenze. GothEric. CC BY-SA 2.0

The Centro Popolare Autogestito Firenze Sud and LaPolveriera SpazioComune are both self-managed centers located in Florence. Like other social centers, they offer a variety of recreational activities during the days and the evenings, such as ceramics classes and concerts, as well as important social services for the community.

Whether you are looking to participate in a ukulele workshop, enjoy a dinner and movie, discuss politics with local Italians, or let loose at a heavy metal concert, self-managed social centers are the perfect place.

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Rebecca Pitcairn

Rebecca studies Italian Language and Literature, Classical Civilizations, and English Writing at the University of Pittsburgh. She hopes to one day attain a PhD in Classical Archeology. She is passionate about feminism and climate justice. She enjoys reading, playing the lyre, and longboarding in her free time. 

Journey to Malaysia: The Gawai Dayak Festival

On June 1st travelers can relish in Sarawakian culture at the colorful Gawai Dayak Festival.

A Gawai Dayak float. Baka_neko_baka. CC BY 2.0

In the Iban language, Gawai Dayak means something like "Festival of the Native Ethnic Groups of Sarawak," a state in Malaysia. This festival brings communities together to celebrate the end of the rice harvesting season. Gawai Dayak is a time of gratitude and companionship where people give thanks for that year's harvests and pray for a fortunate future.

Rice agriculture is integral for many Sarawakians. By June the majority of the hard work in the rice fields is done, and Sarawakians have a period of celebration and rest until the next planting season begins in September.

Gawai Dayak festivities begin during Gawai Eve on May 31st. On Gawai Eve, locals conduct a ceremony called Muai Antu Rua to cast away negative spirits and roast rice over bamboo. During the Muai Antu Rua ceremony, unwanted items are collected from Iban longhouses and used in a miring, or offering ceremony, filled with music. 

After the Muai Antu Rua ceremony, attendees await midnight when the sound of a gong kicks off Gawai Dayak. Many activities and traditions are open to locals and visitors during Gawai Dayak. During the celebrations, participants can engage in traditional dances, dance competitions, and enjoy Sarawakian delicacies such as a rice wine called Tuak, which is thought to bring long life, and rice cakes called Penganan. 

Gawai Dayak is a time filled with events and activities. A popular Gawai Dayak tradition is the Kumang and Keling Gawai contests where celebrants elect the festival’s queen and king. Other common Gawai Dayak traditions include blow-pipe demonstrations and rooster fighting.

Gawai Dayak celebrations can continue for several days. During the festivities, travelers have the unique opportunity to visit the Dayak homes, which are often open to visitors during Gawai Dayak.

Many visit the Sarawakian capital Kuching to celebrate Gawai Dayak. While the official date for Gawai Dayak is June 1st, in Kuching Gawai Dayak is celebrated the week before the World Harvest Festival. These dates vary every year, but the celebration usually falls at the end of May or the beginning of June.

During the Gawai Dayak in Kuching, there is an array of theatrical and musical performances from both local and international troupes. Explorers can also discover traditional cuisine in local longhouses and experience appetizing aromas, engaging workshops and upbeat music at the Food & Craft Fiesta.

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Madison Paulus

Madison is a student at George Washington University studying international affairs, journalism, mass communication, and Arabic. Born and raised in Seattle, Washington, Madison grew up in a creative, open-minded environment. With passions for human rights and social justice, Madison uses her writing skills to educate and advocate. In the future, Madison hopes to pursue a career in science communication or travel journalism.

Whale Watching in Washington State in the San Juan Islands

Experience a beautiful archipelago off the coast of Washington State that’s bursting with natural splendor

The coast of Orca Island in the San Juan Islands. Bureau of Land Management, CC0

Only an hour and a half by ferry from the coast of Seattle, Washington, the San Juan Islands are an incredible destination for any wilderness-seeking wanderers. After only a week, I’d seen dozens of whales and porpoises, and explored miles of the main island both on foot and by bicycle. My friends and I still consider this one of our greatest trips! From whale watching and sea kayaking to hiking and ziplining, these islands provide the perfect “surf-and-turf” nature experience.

The small archipelago is by far most famous for its local orca pods. A rarity in American waters, the Northwest's Gulf of Georgia boasts three local pods that feed primarily on salmon, as well as a traveling pod from Canada that feeds on the local harbor seal population. In addition to the orcas, a wide variety of marine mammals can be spotted both along the shoreline and out in the heart of the Gulf. On our first whale watching tour from the main island my companions and I saw humpback whales, Steller sea lions and a variety of dolphins and porpoises keeping pace with our boat.

The archipelago is made up of four main bodies of land: San Juan, Orcas Island, Lopez Island, and Shaw Island. The first, San Juan, is the largest and most visited island in the chain, and is home to the beautiful town of Friday Harbor. In addition to being the ferry’s main landing point and the heart of the archipelago itself, Friday Harbor is the main hotspot for whale watching tours. The guides provide an excellent experience; ours taught us all about the native marine animals and the history of the islands. We spent most of our time on San Juan during our tour, hiking across the hilly terrain to the south for some amazing views.

A view of Friday Harbor from the balcony of a local restaurant. Image from author. Ryan Livingston

But perhaps the best thing about Friday Harbor is the locals. In particular a harbor seal named Popeye, who likes to spend her mornings floating outside of the dockside restaurants in the hopes of getting some handouts. She’s very friendly, and has become something of a mascot for Friday Harbor!

San Juan is also the site of Lime Kiln Point State Park, which is lauded as one of the best whale watching sites in the world. The park is also a hangout spot for the river otter population around the islands. Lime Kiln Point is also an excellent hiking spot, with a trail leading up to a vintage lighthouse that is the park’s main landmark. This lighthouse provides an excellent view of most of the Gulf.

On the latter half of our trip, my friends and I paid Orcas Island a visit. Known for its rich artistic history, it is known locally as the “Gem of the San Juans.” The coastal towns include a variety of sailing, fishing and whale watching charters, as well as a few sea kayaking companies that give tours of the island and its history. With their friendly and informative tour guides, you’ll wind up learning about everything from jellyfish to the islands’ border disputes back in 1949! Orcas Island is also the site of Moran State Park, an excellent site for hiking, biking, camping and boating on the small lakes situated across the landscape.

The other two islands are well worth visiting, although I wound up spending all of my time on San Juan and Orcas. Lopez Island is by far the least hilly of the four, and as a result has been adapted into a fantastic biking location. With trails all over the island and tons of rental shops to choose from, Lopez is the biker’s dream. In addition, for any eco-minded travelers, a visit to Lopez Island can include a variety of volunteer opportunities, including trash pickup, injured and beached animal rescue training and more.

Finally, we have Shaw, the smallest island in the archipelago and home to the one-of-a-kind Our Lady of the Rock Monastery. Built on living in the same traditional lifestyle as its founders, the nuns tend a sprawling farm that, like the monastery itself, is open to the public. Although it does offer worship sessions, the architecture and rich history are reason enough to visit.

Whether you’re looking for an escape into nature or searching for the elusive mammals of the sea, the San Juan Islands are a uniquely beautiful experience. The best times to visit are between May and August, when the salmon runs are at their highest and orca and porpoise sightings are the most common. Whale watching tours can be booked out of any of the four islands at places like San Juan Excursions, and hotel bookings can range from $157 to around $300 a night in the heart of Friday Harbor. Camping in the various state parks is also an excellent option.

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Ryan Livingston

Ryan is a senior at The College of New Jersey, majoring in English and minoring in marketing. Since a young age, Ryan has been passionate about human rights and environmental action and uses his writing to educate wherever he can. He hopes to pursue a career in professional writing and spread his message even further.

10 Must-Read Travel Classics Book List

From tales of adventure to memoirs, here are some pages to satisfy wanderlust, whether for the armchair traveler or the seasoned globe-trotter

Reading Traveler. Gauthier Delecroix. CC BY 2.0 DEED.

Books hold a unique allure; they allow their readers to experience journeys across continents, cultures and epochs. By digging into pages written by seasoned explorers, we encounter not only vivid adventures but insights into the boundless diversity of our world. This curated collection of travel books ranges from celebrated works such as the classic "Eat, Pray, Love" and voices that continue to redefine the genre.  

In each of these books, the world unfolds, inviting readers to embark on their own journeys, whether on the road or in their imaginations. With glimpses into the art of traveling, let these pages be your passport to discovery.

1. "Bicycle Diaries" by David Byrne

In this captivating exploration of the world through the lens of a bicycle saddle, David Byrne’s offers a distinctive perspective on urban life and culture. As he pedals through cities such as Berlin, Buenos Aires, Istanbul and New York City, he explores the intricacies of urban planning and social dynamics. He is able to paint a portrait of the locale by immersing himself in the rhythm of the streets through the power of the bicycle.

2. "Eat, Pray, Love" by Elizabeth Gilbert

In the classic book about the transformative power of travel, Elizabeth Gilbert chronicles a year-long journey across Italy, India and Indonesia. While she seeks to rediscover herself, Gilbert is immersed in cultures and traditions that show her how to indulge in the pleasures of spirituality and love. Her story intertwines personal growth with the adventures of traveling, inspiring readers to embark on their own quests for self-discovery.

3. "The Slow Road To Tehran" by Rebecca Lowe

This book follows Rebecca Lowe’s solo through Iran, a country that is often misrepresented in Western media. Her narrative is rich with encounters with locals and reflections on the complexities of Iranian society. Through her immersive account of Iran, Lowe challenges stereotypes that perpetuate misunderstandings about Iran, highlighting the potential for travel to bridge cultural divides.

4. "The Catch Me If You Can" by Jessica Nabongo

In this memoir, Nabongo chronicles her quest to become the first black woman to travel to every country. Her adventures offer a glimpse into the diverse cultures and experiences across our globe that illustrates the profound impact of exploration in broadening perspectives. Not only is the transformative nature of travel emphasized, but also Nabongo’s perseverance and courage to explore on her own and embrace the world with open arms, urging readers to embark on their own journeys.

5. "Paris to the Moon" by Adam Gopnik

In this collection of essays, Gopnik recounts his experiences living in Paris with his family during the late 1990s. Through his witty observations and cultural insights he provides a vivid portrait of the City of Light, exploring its charm and timeless allure. Serving as a love letter to the city and a thoughtful narrative on the complexities of expatriate life, it is a must-read for anyone enamored with Paris. 

6. "Blue Latitudes" by Tony Horwitz

In this exploration of James Cook’s voyages through the Pacific Ocean in the 18th century, Horwitz immerses himself in the captain's adventures. Through historical research and storytelling he brings Cook’s expeditions to life while also reflecting on their impact on Indigenous peoples. This blend of travelog and history offers readers a compelling journey through time, as they navigate the expanse of the Pacific alongside Cook and come to understand journeys’ implications for the modern world.

7. "Atlas of Vanishing Places" by Travis Elborough

Through vivid and stunning illustrations, Elborough takes readers on a journey to disappearing landscapes, from sinking islands to vanishing cities. While the book highlights the beauty and cultural significance of these places, it also sheds light on the environmental and societal factors that threaten their existence. As an exploration of some of the world’s most fascinating yet endangered locales, it serves as a reminder of the fragility of our planet and the need for conservation efforts to preserve it.

8. "The Vagabond’s Way" by Rolf Potts

Drawing on his experiences of long-term travel, Potts shares practical advice about the philosophy of wandering and art of living on the road. With engaging storytelling and profound insights, readers are encouraged to embrace a life of adventure and curiosity that offers an enriching existence beyond the confines of conventional living. As a guide for anyone seeking to break free of the constraints of routine and embark on a journey of self-discovery, this book is a must-read.      

9. Imagine a City by Mark Vanhoenacker

Vanhoenacker paints a picture of cities as living, breathing entities that are shaped by their history and culture. Drawing on his experiences as a pilot, Vanhoenacker offers a unique perspective from above that helps to explore the interconnectedness of cities at large. This thought-provoking ode to the power of urban spaces invites readers to reimagine the cities that they inhabit and encourages greater connection with the world around them.

10. "The Geography of Bliss" by Eric Weiner

In his journey across the globe in search of fulfillment, Weiner uses insightful reflections and wit to explore the cultural and geographical factors that shape our perceptions of happiness. Traversing countries ranging from Switzerland to Bhutan, he discovers that the true essence of happiness lies not in material wealth but in the richness of human connections and purposeful living. Weiner’s book offers a heartwarming exploration of the universal quest for joy that holds important meaning for all of us.

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Mira White

Mira is a student at Brown University studying international and public affairs. Passionate about travel and language learning, she is eager to visit each continent to better understand the world and the people across it. In her free time she perfects her French, hoping to someday live in France working as a freelance journalist or in international affairs.

May Day Magic: How Different Countries Celebrate

Sixty-six countries around the world recognize May Day, and a variety of different celebrations and traditions can be found throughout Europe.

May Day bouquets. Alyss. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

The roots of May Day are in the Gaelic Beltane Festival and Roman Floralia. In 1891, the first of May also became recognized as International Workers Day. Over the years, May Day festivities have maintained ancient traditions while evolving to include modern activities from picnics to music festivals.

England

Children performing the Maypole Dance. Pete Ashton. CC BY-NC 2.0

England boasts a long history of May Day celebrations. Traditional Maypole dances can still be seen throughout the country. These dances are often performed by children adorned with flowers who hold ribbons connected to the Maypole. 

The ribbons create a colorful design as the children dance around the maypole. Said to represent the increase of daylight between the winter and summer months, this tradition is around 600 years old.

Beyond witnessing this traditional dance, history enthusiasts can witness re-enactments of conflict between the Vikings and Saxons at Corfe Castle in Dorset. 

Finland

May Day picnic in Helsinki, Finland. Ninara. CC BY 2.0

Finnish May Day celebrations are called Vappu, and are celebrated on April 30th and May 1st. During the festivities, travelers can see streets and parks dotted with white hats; these hats are secondary-school graduation caps, which have become a staple of the Vappu celebration. 

During Vappu, Finland is incredibly lively, full of parties, picnics, parades and political speeches. These events are accompanied by several traditional delicacies, including Finnish May Day funnel cakes called Tippaleipa, Finnish donuts called Munkki, and a unique kind of mead called Sima.

France

Lily of the Valley. liz west. CC BY 2.0

In France, May Day is known to be a day of rest when nearly every business is closed in honor of Labour Day, although flower shops and stands are allowed an exception. This is because Lily of the Valley flowers, called Muguet in French, are a staple May Day tradition.

During the holidays, Lilies of the Valley are exchanged between family and friends as a symbol of good luck. During May Day, French streets are strewn with these flowers as this day marks the only time of the year when people are allowed to sell these flowers on the street without requiring a license or taxation.

Germany

Walpurgisnacht celebration, Germany. Michael Panse. CC BY-ND 2.0

On the eve of May Day, Germans celebrate Walpurgisnacht, a spring festival with a history rooted in witchcraft. This tradition has its origin in the belief that witches celebrate the coming of spring on the summit of Blocksberg Mountain. During Walpurgisnacht, festivalgoers can dance around bonfires and indulge in Maibowle, a punch made up of white and sparkling wines and wild woodruff. 

On May Day, parades featuring brass bands make their way through the streets, followed by maypole dances and public gatherings filled with bratwursts and beer. A festival for dark rock and arts has also been celebrated in Leipzig since 1992, drawing goths from around the world.

Greece

Wildflowers in Greece. Kevin Casper. CC0

May Day has been celebrated in Greece long before its association with Labour Day. Protomagia, the traditional Greek May Day celebration, has been a time for Greeks to celebrate rebirth and honor the dead for centuries. 

While traditions vary across regions, many feature lively singing, dancing and rituals. A few of these customs include women singing traditional May Day songs while dancing around bonfires. Children also leap over the bonfires to symbolize the end of winter and banish disease. 

Greenery and flowers have long symbolized vivacity and fertility. In preparation, people collect wildflowers from the countryside and create wreaths. These wreaths can be found on balconies and doors across the country, intended to ward off evil. These wreaths are then preserved and tossed into bonfires during the Feast Day of Aghios Ioannis Klidonas on June 24th.

Ireland

May Day flowers in Northern Ireland. Etrusia UK. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

Traditionally, Ireland celebrated the Beltane Festival, including Maypoles and May Bushes, which were usually Hawthorn bushes decorated with ribbons and occasionally colored eggshells left over from Easter. 

Children in Dublin would wander the streets in search of money, candles or sweets by approaching people and saying “Long Life, a pretty wife, and a candle for the May Bush”.

While these traditions have largely died out, travelers can still find bonfires in counties like Clare and Limerick. Partygoers celebrate throughout the country, enjoying the holiday with family and friends.

Italy

May Day Concert, 2008. Gniliep. CC BY 2.0

For May Day, Italy hosts the largest free music event in Europe. The May Day Concert in Rome's Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano began in 1990 and has drawn thousands of people every year since. At this event, travelers can experience live music and street events.

Beyond the May Day Concert, Italians and visitors alike use the holiday as an opportunity to soak up the sun and indulge in Italy’s rich culture. Italy has many beaches, such as Salento, where people can celebrate the coming of spring along the water. People also flock to San Gimignano, home to incredible wine, architecture, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site at the city center.

Scotland

Performers at the Beltane Fire Festival, 2009. Martin Robertson. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Scotland is another destination where the Beltane Festival is celebrated. Since the 1980s, traditional Beltane celebrations have been revived with modern additions. 

One of the most prominent celebrations occurs on April 30th in Edinburgh. Every year, around 10,000 people from around the world are drawn to the Beltane Fire Festival. During the festival, a procession filled with drums travels through the streets, led by traditional May Day characters like the Green Man and the May Queen. 

Following the procession, there is a three-hour stage performance which is concluded by the lighting of a bonfire. At the festival, visitors have the opportunity to immerse themselves in the traditional performances and support local businesses

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Madison Paulus

Madison is a student at George Washington University studying international affairs, journalism, mass communication, and Arabic. Born and raised in Seattle, Washington, Madison grew up in a creative, open-minded environment. With passions for human rights and social justice, Madison uses her writing skills to educate and advocate. In the future, Madison hopes to pursue a career in science communication or travel journalism.

Egypt’s Time Capsule: The Fayoum Oasis

A desert adventure that revealed millions of years of history and culture in just one day.

Keriann Slayton

Before the pyramids there were whales, and beyond Cairo there are waterfalls. Once a bounty of prehistoric life, the Fayoum Oasis in Wadi El-Rayan remains rich in resources, culture and history. Cascading water appears as if from nowhere, and dunes and ancient rock rise up to frame the entrance to Wadi El-Hitan, “Whale Valley,” where fossils litter the paths revealing the evolutionary development of massive marine creatures. Describing the region feels like creating an imaginary world for a fantasy novel, yet during my trip there in January 2023, I discovered it to be supremely real and of unique significance in the environmental and cultural memory of Egypt.

The heart-shaped basin spans over 500 square miles and holds stories dating back millions of years. The oasis began forming following the mass drying up of the Mediterranean Sea during the late Miocene period. When the crisis ended and the sea refilled the Nile River ultimately flooded and water flowed into the basin via the Bahr Youssef, transforming the desert expanse into a region of lush vegetation. 

During my visit with my family, I immediately understood why Fayoum was home to the first Egyptians to practice agriculture and exists as one of the world’s longest continuously occupied towns. We met our guide for the day at a restaurant in the village center, which could only be characterized as storybook-esque. The open air dining area overlooked a large garden that supplied fresh herbs and produce for the kitchen, and one of the basin’s many lakes loomed in the distance. The view served as a prime introduction to the rich botanical and marine legacy of Fayoum.

Fayoum entered into a golden era during the years 1817–1860 BCE under King Senusret III. The basin began to yield high volumes of rich produce, attracting growing populations and increasing trade with other regions in Egypt and civilizations abroad. Today, the people of the Fayoum live similarly to their ancient ancestors, farming the land and maintaining its reputation as an agricultural cornucopia and cultural time capsule. I saw donkeys pulling carts carrying fruits, vegetables and people from place to place along dusty dirt roads. Wooden fishing canoes dotted the shores of expansive man-made lakes, which were connected by Egypt’s largest waterfall. The entire basin seemed to have been protected from the clattering machinery and dense fog of industrialization. 

A fishing canoe in Fayoum. Masondan. CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

After finishing up at the restaurant, my mother, father, sister and I loaded into a rugged white Jeep that transported us even further back in time. The green farmland and quaint villages soon disappeared in the rearview mirror as we sped deeper into the vast nothingness of the desert, with no visible landmarks to guide our way. Our driver seemed one with the sand, confidently navigating the dunes and never once even hinting at the possibility of getting lost. The Jeep rattled along for quite a while and, for a moment, I thought we may actually reach the edge of the Earth. Eventually, clusters of irregular shapes appeared on the horizon, and we approached the unique rock formations that marked the entrance to Wadi El-Hitan. 

Keriann Slayton

Discovered by a team of geologists in 1902, the 37-million-year-old fossils of “Whale Valley” make Senusret III’s reign seem like yesterday. After hopping out of the Jeep for photos in front of a landscape that looked like it was copied and pasted from another planet, we arrived at the visitor’s center, a structure organized as a collection of concrete domes with a relatively bare interior that revealed evolutionary secrets long buried beneath the sand. As we ventured deeper into the UNESCO World Heritage site, we encountered whale skeletons stretching as long as 50 feet, and alongside skulls and spines rested the bones that made up the legs and knees of the prehistoric creatures. The fossils confirmed scientists’ long-held suspicions that whales evolved from terrestrial mammals, transitioning to full-time life in the ocean over the course of millions of years. 

The most intriguing were the snake-like remains of the Basilosaurus, the enormous ancient whale whose bite marks were visible in the skulls of some smaller D skeletons. The fossils expose a history of Egypt that long predates the Pharaohs and their Pyramids, a history that predates the Nile itself. As we trekked up and down the dunes, following the fossil-flanked paths, the spirit of the ancient sea made itself undeniable even in the face of the endless desert—it began to rain. 

The drizzle, so rare in the Wadi, connected me and my family across time and species to the legacy of the massive marine beings so instrumental in evolutionary history. We explored for a few hours, and when we finally emerged from Whale Valley, we piled back into the Jeep and dune-busted our way to a remote lake, arriving just in time for sunset. Our driver built a fire and made traditional Berber tea, which we drank on the shores until darkness threatened our route out of the desert and we had to depart.

I fell asleep quickly on the nearly three hour drive back to Cairo, dreaming of colorfully painted wooden boats, sledding down sand dunes, and whales with legs.

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Keriann Slayton

Keriann is studying International Literary and Visual Studies and History at Tufts University, where she is a student athlete on the softball team and writes for the campus newspaper. Journalism allows her to meet fascinating people, engage with her community, and nurture her long-held passion for storytelling.  She loves to fuel her interest in history and culture through travel, and she has visited Spain, Germany, Greece, Egypt, Turkey, and Italy. She hopes to share compelling narratives from around the world in order to better connect humanity across time and cultures

Exploring Iceland’s Westfjords

Delve into the natural beauty and memorable experiences awaiting in Iceland's overlooked northwestern region.

A small town on a fjord in the Westfjords, Iceland. RaulHudson1986. CC0.

The serene and volcanic landscapes of Iceland have attracted adventurous travelers for many years, especially the popular Golden Circle and Ring Road routes. Yet, both paths exclude one of the most scenic areas of the country, the Westfjords.

The Westfjords of Iceland is a sparsely populated, panoramic region with little geothermal activity that many travelers often overlook. Despite this neglect, there are many amazing experiences here to add to your Icelandic adventure.

1. Dynjandi Fjallfoss Trail  (Arnarfjordur) 

Dynjandi Fjallfoss in Arnarfjörður, Iceland. Jacqueline Macou. CC0.

This majestic waterfall is the largest in the region and is frequently referred to as the Westfjords’ most beautiful attraction. It is part of a series of seven waterfalls that unravel down the peak, originating from the waters of Lake Stora-Eyjavatn. The sound that emanates from these falls mimics thunder, and it’s understood why the waterfall’s name, Dynjandi, translates to “thunderous” or “booming." 

From the parking lot, you can hike your way up the seven waterfalls, but take caution as it can be quite slippery and mossy. The average person can do this hike in around 15 minutes, but it is recommended to take your time to enjoy each one. At the peak, you can revel in the mist of the magnificent waterfall, try the fresh glacial water, and look out over the extensive views of the fjord upon your descent. 

2. Museum of Everyday Life–Hversdagssafn (Isafjordur) 

Museum guests in the sensory lab in Ísafjörður, Iceland. Courtesy of Hversdagssafn.

This museum provides an intimate perspective on the everyday life of Icelanders that is largely overlooked in mainstream tourism of the island. Founders Vaida and Björg refer to Hversdagssafn as more of an art project under the guise of a museum, one that aims to collect human connection. From exhibits on family histories told through donated books from the old church, short films about the winter seasons and a local distaste of the Northern Lights to heartfelt reflections on being an immigrant in Iceland, this museum is sure to give you a fresh perspective on life in the Westfjords and the pillar of community using all five of your senses. 

3. Hike to Hornstrandir (Hornstrandir)

Hiker crossing the river in Hornstrandir on a trek to Hornbjarg cliff. Kristyna Sindelkova. CC0.

Hornstrandir (​​227-sq-mi) is an uninhabited area of the Westfjords that is only accessible by boat during the summer between June and August. It’s frequently called “Europe’s last wilderness” and deemed a “hiker’s paradise.” All of the homes on the peninsula have been restored since the last farmers left in 1952. 

After establishing Hornstrandir as a protected Nature Reserve in 1975, the area’s 250 species of flowering plants and 30 species of nesting birds have thrived. Up to six million birds nest on the cliffs during the summer, with species including the Atlantic puffin, Arctic terns, black guillemots and penguins. It is the only sanctuary for Iceland’s prized native mammal, the Arctic fox. As the region is uninhabited and the animals are protected, the foxes have no fear of travelers and will often raise their kits near campsites. Polar bears have also been known to drift on ice to Hornstrandir from Greenland, though this occurrence is rare. 

The area’s tundras, cliffs, flower fields and ice prove to be exciting hiking routes for self-sufficient adventurers. You can enjoy the vast region through multi-day hikes or day trips where you can eat traditional cuisine at the Old Doctor’s House. You can also do multi-day kayak tours that weave in and out of the fjords and camp overnight in the wilderness or at sleeping bag accommodations. Guided tours are highly recommended, and booking in advance is required. 

4. Tjöruhúsið (Ísafjörður)

Town of Isafjordur in the Westfjords of Iceland. Gestur Gislason. CC0.

Immerse yourself in this Icelandic fish buffet, only open for dine-in during the summer season, for a communal dining experience with unlimited access to a range of unique platters and local music. It is a family-owned and run restaurant that has no menu, as the restaurant caters to the catch of the day. The atmosphere is warm, welcoming and familial. Plates vary from traditional Icelandic fish stew, to thorskkinnar (cod cheeks), monkfish and more. The restaurant also serves as a meeting space for public events within the community. Reservations for the lunch and dinner serving times during the summer seasons are highly recommended to ensure a seat at the delicious buffet-style gathering.  

5. The Icelandic Museum of Sea Monsters (Bíldudalur)

A cautionary sign was posted along the road in Iceland. Dendron. CC0.

Take a step back in time and discover old Icelandic lore and legend of the creatures that may or may not have plagued the Nordic seas. This region is known across Iceland for its historic reputation for prolific sea monster activity. At the Icelandic Museum of Sea Monsters, visitors can witness the extraordinary creatures of the deep vividly portrayed through an immersive and interactive blend of language, visuals and videos. Eyewitness testimonies are paired with scholarly insights into the realm of sea monsters, as on-screen narratives and academic perspectives infuse the space. Moreover, an array of relics and artifacts, serving as tangible remnants, color the museum, offering compelling evidence of their existence. The museum also has impressive interactive maps that draw on all kinds of monster legends from around the world.

Additionally, as you visit the museum, a highly recommended pitstop nearby is Reykjafjardarlaug Hot Spring, a geothermal pool just outside of the town for an ideal rest in warmed geothermal waters. 

6. Whale Watching

Whale watchers aboard a RIB boat in Iceland. Courtesy of West Tours. CC0.

The waters of the Westfjords are home to many arctic species, including up to 20 species of whale. Here you will likely encounter dolphins, humpback whales, beak whales, minke whales and orcas. These polar water tours are frigid and icy and thus can be experienced on more relaxed boat tours. However, if you are looking for a more adventurous and open-air whale-watching tour, you can opt for an open RIB boat safari where you can feel the pulse and spray of the ocean while capturing up-close views of marine life. Most tours depart out of Isafjordur or Holmavik and last two to six hours. Almost all tours guarantee incredible whale and nesting bird sightings. 

Whale watchers experiencing a whale sighting in Iceland. Courtesy of West Tours. CC0.

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Julz Vargas

Julz is a student at Wellesley College studying Anthropology and Spanish. She grew up in Los Angeles, CA, and has studied all around the world in places such as Costa Rica, Greece, Iceland, and Spain. She is passionate about employing writing as a tool to explore human connection and diversity. Julz aspires to foster cross-cultural connections through community-based research, amplifying inclusive and diverse media about global cultures, foods, and people, to encourage individuals to engage more wholly with the world.

Introducing a Travel Brand Dedicated to Positive Social Change: CATALYST PLANET

Are you looking for your next adventure? What about one that you can take from the comfort of your own home? With CATALYST PLANET, you need only your laptop to immerse yourself in cultures and destinations from every corner of the globe. And, if you want to travel, CATALYST PLANET can help with that, too. To get CATALYST PLANET directly to your inbox sign up here.

CATALYST PLANET is a global community of activists, conscious travelers and creators, who share a passion for adventure and activism. As a publication that sheds light on urgent global issues through engaging content and transformative travel experiences, CATALYST PLANET is the future of social impact travel.

If you’re itching to embark on your next journey, CATALYST PLANET’s Travel section is the perfect starting point. As a gateway to exploration, every click leads you to new destinations and articles that are organized by continent. Whether you’re looking to enjoy a literary pilgrimage in Colombia, experience Antarctica’s natural beauty, or even meet penguins in South Africa, the travel section has it all. At CATALYST PLANET, you’re invited to satisfy your wanderlust, where every article is a ticket to a different destination.

With captivating social impact articles that explore topics ranging from climate change to human rights, videos that bring distant cultures to life, and podcasts to challenge your perspective, global citizens will find there is always something, or someplace, new to discover. Dive into the stories of women tuk-tuk drivers as they fight discrimination in Cambodia, famine in Sudan due to climate change and political unrest, and how to authentically experience culture while supporting locals. 

And that’s only the beginning. CATALYST PLANET offers travel tools and tips to ensure traveler satisfaction while keeping the planet and local communities in mind. Here, you’ll find an abundance of practical trip tips and tools designed to enhance your travel experience. Need to score discounted airfare for your international flights? Looking for a digital nomad visa that’s easily accessible? Or do you just want to know what to pack in your bag? Regardless of what you’re looking for, CATALYST PLANET offers invaluable insights into travel tricks to make your journey smooth and empower you every step of the way.

For folks ready to make the switch from armchair traveler to globe-trotter, you’re in luck too. Not only does CATALYST PLANET offer insightful media and immersive content, we know that travelers are frustrated, spending hours searching for trips that align with their future-forward, local-first, eco-friendly and sustainable values. They want to travel and do it right. What sets CATALYST PLANET apart from other travel brands is our community’s commitment to raising the bar on ethics and sustainability. We’ve done the leg work, so you don't have to. By using the Take A Trip tool, individuals can discover over 100+ small group tours that are meticulously curated for travelers devoted to conscious exploration. Trips can be filtered by location, interest, cost, duration and more, so that travelers can easily find journeys that better suit their own budget and values.

Whether you crave eco-travel, volunteer trips, cultural immersion, or a wild adventure, CATALYST PLANET has you covered. Volunteer to help animal shelters in South Africa, explore the beaches and temples of Bali, or ski down the slopes of the Koh e Baba in Afghanistan. Our list of vetted organizations and adventures grows weekly. With CATALYST PLANET, you’ll receive your passport to the next generation of conscious travel and activism.

Are you ready to take the leap to join the next generation of activists and conscious travelers? To learn more about CATALYST PLANET, sign up for our newsletter or give us a follow on social media to stay updated on what could be your next adventure. Start your exploration today to join us in creating a brighter tomorrow through future-forward travel and social action—let's see the planet and change the world together. 

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A Festival of Flight: Explore Japan’s Hamamatsu Kite Festival

Join more than 1.5 million people in May to celebrate the Hamamatsu Kite Festival.

Kites flying during the Hamamatsu Kite Festival. Shizuoka Prefectural Tourism Association. CC BY-SA 2.1 JP

The origins of the Hamamatsu Kite Festival date back more than 450 years. In Japan, kites have been used for both practical and celebratory purposes for over 1,000 years. During the Edo era, kites were flown to celebrate the birth of a first-born son. This tradition then developed into the Hamamatsu Kite Festival where all children are celebrated.

At the beginning of May during Golden Week, Hamamatsu’s skies are filled with over 100 vibrant, traditional kites. The designs of the kites in the Hamamatsu Kite Festival symbolize children and traditions from each town in the district of Hamamatsu. The kite fliers then partake in an aerial battle, attempting to sever each other's kite strings.

As dusk falls, the festivities move from the beach to the city center where the streets come alive with dance and musical performances featuring bells and drums. The traditional music follows nearly 100 artfully decorated floats as they travel through the streets of Hamamatsu. The floats carry children in customary clothing and are pulled by cheering adults with lanterns and flags in hand. 

Some floats are over 100 years old, and travelers can learn about their history at the plaza between the JR-Hamamatsu and Shin-Hamamatsu train stations where a few floats are displayed throughout the day. There are three parade routes, so for those hoping to see all the floats it is recommended that they choose a different route each night.

The location of the kite battles on the Pacific coastline allows travelers easy access to other nearby marvels, such as one of three of Japan’s major sand dunes. The Nakatajima Dunes, known as a famous hatching ground for loggerhead sea turtles, can be found near the kite battles, and are surrounded by coastal forests. 

Not only home to its eponymous Kite Festival, the city of Hamamatsu  is a destination known for its diverse landscapes and impeccable craftsmanship. Along with the coastline, Hamamatsu boasts mountains, a river and Lake Hamana, the birthplace of Japan’s eel-farming industry. Energetic travelers can participate in many activities at Lake Hamana, including windsurfing, swimming and biking. 

Nature lovers will feel right at home among thousands of plant species at the Hamamatsu Flower Park. History buffs can learn about the city’s musical history at the Hamamatsu Museum and explore Hamamatsu Castle.

Hamamatsu is easily accessible from Tokyo. Travelers can take a bullet train from Tokyo Station to Hamamatsu Station in as little as 100 minutes.

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Madison Paulus

Madison is a student at George Washington University studying international affairs, journalism, mass communication, and Arabic. Born and raised in Seattle, Washington, Madison grew up in a creative, open-minded environment. With passions for human rights and social justice, Madison uses her writing skills to educate and advocate. In the future, Madison hopes to pursue a career in science communication or travel journalism.

Buried Tragedy: The Slums Beneath the Streets of Edinburgh

A long-buried mini-city beneath the streets of Edinburgh sheds light on the lives of its 19th century poor

The Edinburgh Vaults. fw42, CC BY 2.0

The city of Edinburgh is known for its gorgeous architecture, rich history and fascinating culture, and over many years has become a prime destination for tourists visiting Scotland. But beneath the Royal Mile lie hidden catacombs and an unsettling history of poverty and crime.

Despite being used as a prime spot for chintzy “ghost tours”, the underground city (referred to varyingly as the Edinburgh Vaults and South Bridge Vaults) has a rich and tragic history. It was constructed back in 1788 as part of the South Bridge Act, which was an attempt to make the rapidly-growing city more traversable. The bridge wasn’t only for travel, however; the arches under the bridge were home to tenement buildings designed to turn the area into a marketplace. The nearly 120 individual vaults became taverns, workshops and storage units for merchants.

Storage in the Edinburgh Vaults. Kjetil Bjornsrud, CC BY-SA 2.5

However, these vaults were not properly sealed against water and eventually started to flood, leading to most businesses completely abandoning them before the turn of the century. The rooms were left largely empty as the Industrial Revolution swept across Britain, and eventually became slum housing for the city’s poor. As jobs began to be automated, more and more citizens were without income and found themselves unable to pay for their homes, sending them out onto the streets and, eventually, down to the South Bridge Vaults.

Since the vaults were almost totally blocked off, many of them were without air circulation and sunlight. This, coupled with a lack of running water and sanitation, made living down in the vaults a waking nightmare. Over time, the vaults became more and more crowded, with many housing several families at once.

A recreation of living conditions in the Vaults. Shadowgate, CC BY 2.0

The vaults were also entirely avoided by the city police. As a result, they became a hotspot for all kinds of crime, from theft and prostitution to murder and body snatching. Rumors have circulated for years that a pair of notorious serial killers used the vaults to store corpses that they would later sell to medical schools for use in classes. While the killings did occur, there is no evidence that the criminals actually used the vaults to store their victims.

It is unknown exactly when the vaults were finally shut down. At some point, they were cleared out and sealed off with rubble to prevent new inhabitants. The vaults were left completely forgotten underneath the city until being discovered and excavated in the 1980s. In the years since, various clubs and venues have taken up residence in the vaults, but the vast majority are still used for ghost tours.

The history of these vaults is overshadowed by the pop-culture appeal of their supposed hauntings, but their very existence shines a light on the grim conditions faced by the poor in the 19th century. The appalling conditions in which these impoverished people lived is bad enough, but the indifference shown by the city’s government was far worse, letting criminals run rampant and leaving entire families essentially trapped in the sunless, disease-ridden catacombs. Today, the vaults serve as a reminder of the shortcomings of industrialism and the suffering endured by the poor around the world throughout history.

Though much of the vault network is still closed off to the public, there are many different tour companies in the city that guide visitors through the accessible rooms. Despite being billed most often as “ghost tours,” the guides are more than receptive to questions about the vaults’ history and tend to spend just as much time describing the vaults themselves as the ghosts that ostensibly still haunt them. Mercat Tours, a well-regarded historical tour company in Edinburgh, does adults-only evening tours regularly, with ticket prices around $28.

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Ryan Livingston

Ryan is a senior at The College of New Jersey, majoring in English and minoring in marketing. Since a young age, Ryan has been passionate about human rights and environmental action and uses his writing to educate wherever he can. He hopes to pursue a career in professional writing and spread his message even further.