Russian Poets and the Risk of Resistance

Kennedy Kiser

From public readings to prison cells, Russian poets are paying the price for speaking against the war.

Protesters march in Moscow against repression and fabricated charges. DonSimon. CC0.

“Kill me, militiaman!

You’ve already tasted blood!

You’ve seen how battle-ready brothers

Dig mass graves for the brotherly masses.

You’ll turn on the television—you’ll lose it,

Self-control has never been your strong suit.”

— Artyom Kamardin, “Kill Me, Militiaman”

In December 2023, Russian poet Artyon Kamardin was sentenced to seven years in prison for reciting anti-war verses during the public “Mayakovsky Readings” in Moscow. Fellow poet Yegor Shtovba, who performed at the same event, received a sentence of five and a half years. Kamardin was reportedly beaten and sexually assaulted during his arrest for reciting poetry in response to Russia’s war in Ukraine. 

Daria Serenko at the Moscow International Book Fair in 2019. Sergey Leschina. CC BY 4.0.

Their cases are not isolated. In April 2024, feminist poet and activist Daria Serenko was added to Russia’s federal wanted list. Known for combining poetry with political action, Serenko has faced years of harassment. Her arrest warrant, however, marked a shift in the state’s approach. Where once artists were threatened, they are now hunted.

Literature has long played a role in Russian resistance. During the Soviet era, banned texts circulated underground through samizdat networks. Today, Telegram channels and independent journals continue that tradition, sharing poetry that challenges state narratives. But the stakes are now much higher. Poets are not just being silenced; they are being criminalized. The penalties include imprisonment, forced exile and public brutality.

At the center of this increased repression is the state’s fear of language itself. Poetry distills dissent into a form that is emotionally direct and difficult to contain. It spreads quickly, often through digital platforms, in defiance of Russia’s 2022 censorship laws. Unlike journalism or political commentary, verse can bypass logic and speak directly to the reader’s gut. As poet Osip Mandelstam once wrote, “Only in Russia is poetry respected — it gets people killed. Is there anywhere else where poetry is so common a motive for murder?”

This crackdown is not limited to well-known names. Emerging writers, students and performers with modest online followings have also been detained or investigated for speech-related offenses. In some cases, posting a poem on VKontakte, Russia’s largest social network, has led to criminal charges. The line between art and activism has been effectively erased, especially for those who oppose the war.

International literary organizations have responded by offering emergency grants, publication platforms and legal aid. PEN International, Freemuse and countless other organizations have condemned Russia’s actions, calling for the immediate release of detained artists. Yet the risks persist. For many Russian writers, exile is the only path to safety, though it often comes with the painful cost of losing direct access to their audiences.

Repressing writers like Kamardin, Shtovba and Serenko reveals a broader strategy: to eliminate not just protest but the imagination of a different future. By imprisoning poets, the government also suppresses the potential for alternative visions of the world.

Still, Russian poetry persists. In exile, through online platforms and underground readings, writers continue to speak out. In a regime that fears language, each poem becomes an act of resistance.

GET INVOLVED:

These organizations offer support to writers and artists facing political persecution. From legal aid to international advocacy, their work helps protect freedom of expression and document human rights abuses. Getting involved means helping preserve creative resistance in some of the world’s most repressive environments.

To learn more about PEN International, click here.

To learn more about Freemuse, click here.

To learn more about Memorial International, click here.

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Kennedy Kiser

Kennedy is an English and Comparative Literature major at UNC Chapel Hill. She’s interested in storytelling, digital media, and narrative design. Outside of class, she writes fiction and explores visual culture through film and games. She hopes to pursue a PhD and eventually teach literature!

The Case for Slow Travel

While many travelers hope to get the most out of their journey with faraway plane rides, consider slowing down and finding your way to the road less traveled. 

Walking on the beach at Møns Klint. Libby Scaperotta. 

In the spring of 2022, I studied abroad in Copenhagen. My friends and I took advantage of the amazing public transit and metro system to get nearly everywhere. So, when it came time to plan an adventure to the limestone cliffs of Mons Klint, we didn’t even consider renting a car. Instead, we quickly opened our phones to the public transit app to route our trip the night before. 

It’s the next morning, and the clock strikes 4:55 a.m. My roommate and I bounced out of bed, hopping into the clothes we had laid out the night before and grabbing our pre-packed bags before heading next door to knock on the neighbor’s apartment. With some begrudging groans from the boys next door, in under 10 minutes we were out the front door and headed toward the metro station. 

Our journey began with a metro ride, two trains and two buses. After being dropped off and walking a short distance to the next bus stop, we waited patiently for what we thought would be the last leg of our trip, which never came. We had miscalculated a seasonal closure of part of the route’s timing. This led to the eight of us walking the last three kilometers of the trip on a beautiful sunny day in the Danish countryside. We walked among neighborhoods with quaint homes, beside farm animals and through pastures until we were dropped off at the magnificent cliffside of Mons Klint. 

A friend walking along the backroad in the Danish countryside during our adventure to Mons   Klint. Libby Scaperotta.

We repeated this process backward at the end of the day. But, as we waited at bus stops and train stations while the sun set, we giggled, shivered, danced and dreamed of a large pizza. 

Although this journey to Mons Klint would have taken probably a quarter of the time had we just rented two cars for the group, the day’s adventure was unforgettable. 

When traveling, we often try to maximize our two weeks of paid time off with ambitious plans to travel far by plane or private vehicle. 

Yet, I am here to convince you to try slower travel. Try taking public transit instead of driving and see where the adventure may lead you. Or, try slowing down on your backpacking trip and volunteer in an area instead of packing up so quickly. 

Traveling slowly is not only less costly for your wallet but also for the environment. My first introduction to a flight emissions calculator was a deeply upsetting experience that made me reconsider how I fly. Slower travel, which emphasizes public transport or staying in one place, may be a better option for eco-conscious travelers who hope to explore while still being mindful of their carbon footprint. 

If you are interested in slowing down your travels, I highly recommend a volunteer experience or work exchange. These will allow you to stay in one place and save on accommodation and meals while immersing yourself in an area’s pace of life and community. From there, you may be able to take short day trips or weekends away in areas that you may have never otherwise explored. There are several platforms that my friends and I have used to find and plan work exchanges: WWOOF, Workaway and Worldpackers. 

You can even integrate slow travel into your daily life. Grab your local public transit card and explore the destinations you may get to by bus or train! You might find a sweet town, a new beach or an adventure within arm’s reach. 

Slowing down can be good for you and the earth. And, it may even allow you to decide for yourself if exploring the road less traveled does make all the difference.

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Libby Scaperotta

Libby is a recent graduate from Middlebury College, where she studied Environmental Policy and Geography. She enjoys travel, photography, and spending time outdoors with people she loves. She plans to pursue a career dedicated to environmental work and wishes to share important stories that may inspire action. 

Go Snorkeling Amongst Archaeological Ruins

At Gaiola Underwater Park in Naples, ancient Roman ruins meet vibrant marine ecosystems. Explore this treasure trove beloved by locals. 

Gaiola Island. Gianfranco Vitolo. CC BY 2.0

At the foot of Posillipo Hill in Naples, Italy, is a protected marine area stretching over 103 acres. Gaiola Underwater Park was founded in 2002 by Interministerial Decree and is managed by the Gaiola Onlus Interdisciplinary Study Center. Extending from the village of Marechiaro to the Bay of Trentaremi, the park is a treasure trove of biological, historical, and archaeological wonders in one of the most evocative coastal landscapes in the Gulf of Naples.

Renowned for its rich marine biodiversity, the park's waters are home to a range of species, some of which are unique to the Mediterranean. The landscape of the seabed and the favorable circulation of marine currents has allowed the settlement of ​​a rich and varied biological community. It provides a habitat for various fish, crustaceans, and algae, contributing to the overall health of the Mediterranean. Octopuses, white breams, damselfish and moray eels swim amongst ancient ruins, polychrome sponges, and beautiful walls of sea daisies. The park's protection ensures that these species can thrive without the pressures of commercial fishing and pollution.

Beyond marine life, the underwater park is also home to archaeological remains dating back to ancient Roman times. Inspired by Posillipo’s beauty, the Roman aristocracy settled along the coast in 100 BCE. The most significant structure was the Villa of Pausilypon, built by the Imperial official Publio Vedio Pollio. The Villa occupied much of the coastal stretch of the current Park. Remains of the Villa’s maritime structures, such as majestic tuff quarries, landings, mosaic floors, nymphaeums, and fish ponds, are still visible along the coast and below the sea surface, thanks to a local volcano-tectonic phenomenon of slow lifting and lowering of the earth's crust known as “bradyseism.”

The Gaiola Underwater Park is a center for scientific research and environmental education. The park plays a vital role in marine conservation efforts, offering a space for researchers to study marine life and ecosystems. Educational programs and workshops are regularly conducted to raise awareness about marine conservation and the importance of preserving the Bay of Naples’ natural and cultural heritage.

Posillipo Naples. Fiore Silvestro Barbato. CC BY-SA 2.0

Once, Gaiola was considered a cursed island. According to local legend, the lives of the island’s previous owners ended in suicide, financial disaster or shipwreck. In 1911, a shipskipper, Captain Gaspare Albenga, crashed his boat into the rocks of the island and drowned while he was examining it for potential purchase, although locals say neither body nor ship was ever found. 

In the 1920s, a Swiss businessman, Hans Braun took possession of the island and was subsequently found murdered and wrapped in a rug. Not long after, his wife drowned at sea. ​​The island was then purchased by Otto Grunback, a German perfume dealer. He suffered a heart attack and instantly died at the Villa. These are only a few examples of the many stories that exist about the misfortune that befalls those who attempt to purchase the island.

Bay of Trentaremi. Giuseppe Guida. CC BY-SA 4.0

After these tragedies, more legends about the area were born. One of the most famous is that the ghost of a faceless woman haunts the area. According to local fishermen, it is the spirit of a woman who died during the San Giorgio cruiser's shipwreck in 1911. Others believe the specter to be the ghost of Hans Braun's late wife.

The origin of the name “Gaiola” is debated. Officially, the namesake derives from two small islands located in the park off the coast of Posillipo. Some think that the name Gaiola comes from the Latin cavea, meaning cave, corral or grotto. In Neapolitan, the word gajola means cage, recalling the cage-like shape of the archipelago. Cavea can also mean amphitheater. Gaiola hosts its own amphitheater in the ancient Villa. 

Archaeological Park of Pausilypon. Armando Mancini. CC BY-SA 2.0

Visitors can participate in guided tours that offer exciting activities and insight into the park's ecological and historical significance. To visit the Gaiola Underwater Park, it is essential to make a reservation in advance due to the park's commitment to preserving its delicate ecosystems by maintaining a controlled number of visitors. You can enter the park any day with an online reservation, although hours and restrictions vary depending on the season. Aside from guided tours, there are many activities for visitors to take part in, such as glass-bottomed boats, snorkeling, scientific diving, and kayaking.

GETTING THERE

The park is accessible from Naples’ city center by metro, car or bus. The park’s website features detailed information on activities, visitor guides, and the park’s history.

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Rebecca Pitcairn

Rebecca studies Italian Language and Literature, Classical Civilizations, and English Writing at the University of Pittsburgh. She hopes to one day attain a PhD in Classical Archeology. She is passionate about feminism and climate justice. She enjoys reading, playing the lyre, and longboarding in her free time. 

My Road Trip Across The Balkans

Photographer Laura Grier shares her adventures through Bosnia, Croatia, Montenegro and more.

Macedonia. Laura Grier.

Imagine hitting the road with your best friends, traveling through the breathtaking Balkans, in the heart of the former Yugoslavia. A journey through some of the most stunning landscapes in Europe, this epic road trip was also a personal milestone for me as I celebrated visiting my 100th country along the way.

Although many Americans don’t often travel to this part of the world, Eastern Europe is a hidden gem — safe, welcoming and incredibly affordable. Crossing borders was a breeze, even though we didn’t speak the local languages. Everywhere we went, from bustling cities to quaint villages, we were greeted with warm smiles and genuine hospitality.

The mix of rich history, mouth-watering food and awe-inspiring nature made my trip unforgettable. Whether exploring medieval fortresses perched on cliffs, wandering through picturesque towns, or relaxing by crystal-clear lakes, every moment offered a new adventure. A must-visit destination for any adventurous traveler, this beautiful and often overlooked part of the world is a treasure trove of experiences waiting to be discovered.

1. Bosnia

Mostar Bridge:

The iconic Stari Most, or Mostar Bridge, is both a stunning example of Ottoman architecture and the site of a centuries-old tradition. As a rite of passage in Bosnia, young men often gather on the bridge to prove their bravery by diving 70 feet into the Neretva River which runs below.

Jajce:

The town of Jajce, with its picturesque waterfalls and medieval charm, looks like something out of a fairy tale. Perched high up on a hill between the crossroads of two rivers, this enchanting walled city is also the birthplace of Yugoslavia, making the village as historically significant as it is beautiful.

2. Macedonia

Lake Ohrid:

Lake Ohrid, one of Europe's oldest and deepest lakes, cradles the ancient city of Ohrid. Believed to be the oldest human settlement in Europe, archaeological evidence suggests that the area has been inhabited for over 7,000 years. One of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Europe, the town itself dates back to at least the 4th century BCE. Featuring serene waters and historic sites, Ohrid is truly a gem amongst UNESCO World Heritage sites.

Bay of Bones:

The Bay of Bones is an extraordinary archaeological site that reconstructs an ancient lake settlement from 1200 B.C.E. The floating village, resting upon Lake Ohrid, offers a glimpse into the life of Macedonia's earliest inhabitants. The actual ruins of the original settlement lie underwater, just beneath the recreated floating village. You can even book a snorkeling or scuba tour to explore them up close!

Matka Lake:

Located in Macedonia’s Matka Canyon, Matka Lake is a haven for nature lovers and adventurers alike. Beyond crystal-clear waters and dramatic cliffs, this stunning natural gorge is also home to hidden caves and medieval monasteries, making it a must-visit in Macedonia. You can hike up the nearby mountain to visit the church at the top and then hike back down to swim and do watersports in the lake. However, it’s important to remember that the water temperature can be as cold as 48 degrees Fahrenheit depending on the season. The lake's cool temperature is due to the depth of the canyon and the icy waters from nearby underground springs, making it feel more like a polar plunge!

3. Croatia

Plitvice Lakes:

Visiting Plitvice Lakes National Park feels like stepping into a fantasy, with its breathtaking wonderland of cascading waterfalls, lush greenery and mesmerizing turquoise lakes. This UNESCO World Heritage site is Croatia's natural treasure, captivating visitors with its otherworldly beauty. Plitvice is home to 16 interconnected lakes, each more stunning than the next. I was obsessed with the beautiful neon green moss that covered everything around them. 

Dubrovnik:

Dubrovnik, often called the "Pearl of the Adriatic," is a city where history comes alive. With ancient stone walls, charming streets and panoramic views of the sparkling sea, this medieval city is a stunning blend of ancient architecture and vibrant culture. In Dubrovnik, "Game of Thrones" fans will recognize numerous filming locations from the series, such as King's Landing. Walking through the town’s streets might just feel like stepping into Westeros!

Split:

In Split, the past and present beautifully collide. Once the site of a Roman emperor's palace, Split is a vibrant blend of ancient history and modern life. With its sprawling complex of ruins, the UNESCO-listed Diocletian's Palace forms the heart of this bustling coastal city. The narrow streets are interconnected and labyrinthine — you will need to allow yourself time to get lost and discover hidden bars and restaurants, some of which haven't changed in centuries!

4. Montenegro

Tara Canyon:

Tara Canyon, the second deepest canyon in the world, is one of Montenegro's most jaw-dropping natural wonders. With dense forests and a crystal-clear river carving through the rugged landscape, the site is a dream come true for adventurers and nature lovers. The Tara River is known as the "Tear of Europe" because of its pure, drinkable waters. If you're into white-water rafting, this canyon also offers some of the best in Europe!

Kotor:

Visiting Kotor felt like time-traveling to the medieval past. Nestled between dramatic mountains and the shimmering Bay of Kotor, the town is a popular stop on European cruises. While it seems impossible for the narrow bay to accommodate cruise ships, these boats nonetheless manage to bring in thousands of tourists. You can spend the day kayaking out to churches on tiny islands, exploring caves, getting lost exploring the cobblestone streets, and visiting impressive fortifications dating back to the Venetian era.

5. Slovenia:

Predjama Castle:

A medieval fortress built into the mouth of a cliff cave, Predjama Castle is truly a sight to behold. This marvel of engineering holds a Guinness World Record as the largest cave castle in the world (which I didn't know was even a thing)! I love exploring secret passageways and caves and was fascinated when I discovered that the castle’s secret hidden tunnel was used by Erasmus of Lueg to sneak out and bring in supplies during a siege. Exploring this castle felt like diving straight into an “Indiana Jones” movie!

Slovenia’s Coastline:

Slovenia’s spectacular coastline may be small, but it packs a punch with its crystal-clear waters and pristine white pebble beaches. It is truly a hidden gem, perfect for those looking to escape the crowds. Piran, a charming coastal town, is often compared to Venice for its Venetian-style architecture and stunning views of the Adriatic Sea.

Slovenia as "Narnia":

If you've ever dreamed of stepping into a fairy tale, then Slovenia is the place for you. The country’s enchanting landscapes, rolling hills and ancient forests are so magical that they served as a backdrop for "The Chronicles of Narnia" films. Driving through Slovenia, every turn reveals a new and breathtaking scene. It felt like Narnia came to life — and I never wanted to leave!

6. Serbia:

Fields of Sunflowers and Agriculture:

Who knew that Serbia was a land of endless sunflower fields and rich agriculture? When I first drove into Serbia, I couldn’t help but feel like I was in the Midwestern United States. Northern Serbia, with its flat terrain, was once an ancient seabed, which is why the soil is so nutrient-rich. This makes it perfect for growing crops that stretch as far as the eye can see, creating stunning golden landscapes in the summer.

Belgrade:

Serbia’s capital, Belgrade, is a city with a rich and tumultuous history. Its most famous landmark, the Belgrade Fortress, has stood the test of time, watching over the Sava and Danube rivers. This fortress has seen everything from medieval battles to World War II skirmishes. Today, it’s a beloved park and museum, offering panoramic views of the city and a peek into the hidden tunnels and bunkers used during World War II. The underground armory inside the castle was even converted into a popular underground disco tech in the ’90s. I love how this region of the world has embraced its tumultuous past and incorporated it into modern life in creative ways.

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Laura Grier

Laura is a dynamic Adventure Photographer, Photo Anthropologist, Travel Writer, and Social Impact Entrepreneur. With a remarkable journey spanning 87 countries and 7 continents, Laura's lens captures both the breathtaking landscapes and the intricate stories of the people she encounters. As a National Geographic artisan catalog photographer, Huffington Post columnist, and founder of Andeana Hats, Laura fuses her love for photography, travel, and social change, leaving an impact on the world.

Land of Legends: Experience Romania’s Rich Medieval History

The country of Romania is a diorama of hundreds of years of human history.

Bucharest’s skyline. seisdeagosto. CC BY-SA 2.0

Romania’s incredibly rich history is still preserved to this day in the form of beautiful architecture. Medieval castles and communist palaces rub elbows in the beautiful landscape, standing side by side to create a fascinating timeline of human history.

A feat of medieval architecture, the legendary Bran Fortress is seated in the heart of the Transylvania region. Although it is known outside of Romania as “Dracula’s Castle,” there is no direct relation between the actual castle and the famous novel by Bram Stoker. The site’s only vampiric influence is a tangential relation to Vlad the Impaler, a historical monarch who had little connection to the supernatural outside of literary and popular imagination.

The Bran Fortress is a striking example of Saxon architecture. Built in 1377, the palace is now used as a museum displaying the furniture and art collection of Queen Marie, the last queen of Romania, who ruled from 1914 to 1927. The collection is open to visitors and provides guided tours of the historical pieces. Below the palace is a recreation of Romanian peasant life, featuring reconstructed barns, water-powered machinery and cottages.

A view of Bran Fortress. Clay Gilliland, CC SA 2.0

An even more ancient —yet surprisingly modern—relic hidden in the heart of Romania is the Salina Turda, a salt mine dating all the way back to 1075. Founded by the Roman occupants of Transylvania, the mine continued to produce table salt for centuries before finally closing its doors in 1932. Years later, in 2010, the massive series of caverns was reopened as a tourist destination and historical site. In addition, the Theresa Mine houses a beautiful underground lake a full 400 feet below ground.

The modern Salina Turda Salt Mine. Valentin Cocarlea, CC BY-SA 4.0

Jumping ahead roughly a century, the city of Brasov is home to the 14th-century Biserica Neagra, or the Black Church. This beautiful Gothic cathedral was nearly destroyed by a fire in the 1680s and took nearly a century to fully repair. The church got its name from the ruined, soot-covered walls which remained after the blaze. Today, the Church is open to visitors and still holds weekly concerts with its massive, 4,000-pipe organ.

Biserica Neagra, the Black Church. Gaspar Ros. CC BY-SA 3.0

A palace of the modern era, the Palace of Parliament stands in the capital city of Bucharest. Constructed in the 1980s, this palace was planned and built by the communist regime of Romania in the midst of the Cold War. Since the ousting of the Communist Party, the palace has become the home of the Romanian legislature. The Palace of Parliament is an incredible combination of architectural styles, creating a uniquely beautiful building with as much form as function.

The Romanian Palace of Parliament. Jorge Franganillo. CC BY-SA 2.0Romania is one of the best examples of a living museum. From the Middle Ages to the Cold War, whole centuries are represented in art, architecture and sometimes the land itself. For the historically driven tourist, Romania is a destination that can’t be matched anywhere else.

The best time to visit Romania is between May and September when the weather is warmest. The capital city of Bucharest offers a variety of hotel bookings ranging from $100 to $200 per night. More affordable options include rental apartments around the city from $30 to $40 per night.

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Ryan Livingston

Ryan is a senior at The College of New Jersey, majoring in English and minoring in marketing. Since a young age, Ryan has been passionate about human rights and environmental action and uses his writing to educate wherever he can. He hopes to pursue a career in professional writing and spread his message even further.