By Grace Williams
Trade the crowded coast for soaring peaks, glacial valleys, and traditional villages in northern Albania.
A serene road in Valbone, Albania, with a lone cow and majestic mountains in the background. Sabina Kallari. Pexels.
From pop star Dua Lipa to the recent controversy surrounding Ivanka Trump and Jared Kushner's proposed luxury resort on Sazan Island, Albania has increasingly found itself in the global spotlight.
Yet beyond the turquoise beaches of the Adriatic Sea lies a different rugged landscape. In the country's far north, the Accursed Mountains, also known as the Albanian Alps, rise above traditional villages, glacial valleys and limestone peaks where community-based ecotourism offers an alternative vision for Albania’s growing tourism industry. While the proposed luxury resort on Sazan Island, a former Cold War military base surrounded by protected marine waters off the coast of Albania, has attracted over a billion dollars in investment and international attention, hundreds of miles north, the Accursed Mountains tell a different story.
Villages such as Theth and Valbone serve as gateways to the Albanian Alps, welcoming visitors with traditional hospitality and breathtaking scenery. Theth National Park and Valbone Valley National Park are connected by the renowned Theth-Valbone Trail, a full-day hike that winds through alpine meadows, mountain passes and glacially carved valleys before rewarding hikers with sweeping panoramic views. More adventurous travelers can continue along sections of the Peaks of the Balkans Trail, which links Albania with neighboring Montenegro and Kosovo.
Beyond hiking, visitors can cool off at the crystal-clear Blue Eye of Theth blue pool, admire Grunas Waterfall or wander through centuries-old stone villages where mountain traditions remain woven into daily life. Many travelers stay in family-run guesthouses, enjoying homemade meals featuring local cheeses, fresh bread, byrek and other regional specialties while learning about the customs that have shaped the region for generations. The best time to visit is between June and September, when trails are snow-free and transportation to the mountains is most reliable. Most journeys begin in Tirana before continuing north to Shkoder and onward to Theth or Valbone by minibus. Many itineraries also include a ferry ride across Lake Koman, whose emerald waters and towering cliffs make it one of the Balkans' most scenic journeys.
As Albania welcomes record numbers of visitors, the Accursed Mountains demonstrate that tourism and conservation can thrive together. By choosing locally owned accommodations, hiring local guides, and supporting small businesses, travelers can help preserve the landscapes, traditions, and communities that make northern Albania one of Europe's most rewarding destinations.
Grace Williams
Grace is a rising junior at Wake Forest University, where she is majoring in Politics and International Relations with minors in Spanish and Latin American Studies. She is passionate about political pluralism, human rights, culture, and journalism. In her free time, Grace enjoys playing tennis, watching movies, and reading.