Ryan Yianni
On the outskirts of Ho Chi Minh City, victims of American bombing achieve financial independence through their unique artwork.
Artists working at Lang Viet Lacquers. Ryan Yianni.
If you ever find yourself in Ho Chi Minh City, it is almost a given that, at some point in your journey, you will travel to the Cu Chi Tunnels. Located just under 30 miles north of the country’s largest city, this famous spot along the Vietnam War-era network of underground tunnels has become a must-see attraction. There are a myriad of tour operators running daily trips to the tunnels, no doubt with some stops along the way. On my tour, our first visit was Lang Viet Lacquers, a small art factory on the outskirts of the city with a unique story.
Lang Viet Lacquers, situated in the city’s northwest, is a government-supported enterprise allowing victims of America’s brutal Agent Orange bombing campaign to achieve financial independence through lacquer painting, an art form that has existed in Vietnam and Southeast Asia for over 2,000 years. The stunning artwork consists of rich, almost reflective colors, with the addition of eggshell and mother-of-pearl to create bright, contrasting sparkles against the background.
My two purchases from Lang Viet Lacquers. Ryan Yianni.
Arriving in the intense heat of the Vietnamese sun, we stepped off the coach and were ushered into the workshop, where we saw firsthand the artwork being created with painstaking care and detail. We were told how all the artists are victims of Agent Orange, the herbicide sprayed in large quantities over Vietnam by U.S. forces during the Vietnam War. These victims are not just war veterans; the devastating effects of Agent Orange were passed down to descendants of those affected, and the succeeding generations have suffered greatly in turn. For each work of art sold, the proceeds go directly to the artists, helping them achieve financial independence. Many of the injuries and conditions they suffer from mean they cannot work in the traditional sense, predominantly due to mobility or developmental issues, so this outlet allows them to maintain their freedom. In their shop, you are able to purchase a wide variety of items, from small souvenirs to large, wall-hung art, so there is something for everyone’s budget and luggage space.
Artist adding finishing touches to painting. Ryan Yianni.
The actors behind Agent Orange initially claimed their intent to destroy the Vietnamese jungle and root out guerrilla forces deep in the overgrown countryside, but the effects were much more serious and long-lasting. Being sprayed across almost 3 million hectares, over 4 million Vietnamese were exposed to the chemical, and while those directly exposed suffered from health issues, such as multiple neurological disorders, increased cancer rates, heart disease and serious skin rashes and scarring, the effects of Agent Orange were also passed onto their children and grandchildren. Later generations of Vietnamese citizens whose parents and grandparents were victims of Agent Orange have suffered from cleft lip, heart defects, birth disorders leading to lack of limbs, increased cancer rates, congenital heart diseases and severe learning disabilities, to name a few. Studies have shown that Vietnamese exposed to Agent Orange also have a higher rate of dioxins in their bodies, which are highly toxic pollutants that can cause issues like chloracne, cancer, immune and reproductive problems, developmental issues and chronic illnesses.
One of the reasons for the continued effects of Agent Orange on the younger generations is the fact that these dioxins are still found in Vietnamese soil, water and food chain. It is consumed through contaminated crops and livestock, breathed in via dust and absorbed through the skin, meaning that Agent Orange has continued to plague Vietnamese civilians for decades after the last of the chemical was dropped on the country. Additionally, dioxins have a half-life of 7 to 11 years, meaning that the strength of the chemicals did not decrease until approximately 1980 and is still present today, although in lower quantities and intensity
Agent Orange also had a strong impact on Vietnamese wildlife: A post-war study found 24 species of birds and 5 species of mammals in an area of forest that had been heavily sprayed, compared to two non-sprayed forest areas that each had over 100 bird species and at least 30 mammal species. Studies have found that the rate of miscarriages and birth defects was significantly higher in women who had been exposed to Agent Orange. Research has also shown that U.S and Australian soldiers who were exposed to Agent Orange have a much higher risk of elevated blood pressure and tumors, among other health issues, while those soldiers exposed to the dioxins had a higher rate of soft-tissue sarcoma, a rare type of cancer found in muscle tissue. A 2021 study also found that American veterans exposed to the herbicide were almost twice as likely to develop dementia.
The United States began to deploy herbicidal agents in Vietnam in January 1962, with the launch of Operation Ranch Hand, although the first major operations did not begin until September, when mangrove forests on the Mekong River were targeted. The majority of Agent Orange usage was between 1966 and 1969, with an estimated 170 kilograms of dioxin dropped on Vietnam and even more sprayed onto the border areas of Laos and Cambodia. By 1971, the evidence of the harmful effects was beginning to be known, and the U.S. government halted all herbicidal spraying operations in Vietnam, with the remaining stock destroyed by 1977.
The use of Agent Orange was incredibly controversial at the time. The Federation of American Scientists urged the U.S. government not to use chemical and biological weapons unless used by the enemy first in 1964, concerned that the government was not discriminating between military and civilian targets. In 1966, a group of scientists led by John Edsall of Harvard University appealed to President Lyndon B. Johnson to ban the use of such weapons. The statement reads, “such tactics are barbarous because they are indiscriminate; they represent an attack on the entire population of the region where the crops are destroyed, combatants and non-combatants alike." Similar protests continued for the remainder of the war.
If you are able to visit Lang Viet Lacquers, it is well worth the trip. Being able to purchase some great souvenirs, along with helping those who have suffered the consequences of America’s brutal war, is a worthy highlight of a trip to Vietnam. I’m a big believer in leaving somewhere better than I found it, embracing local cultures and giving back to the communities I have discovered through my travels, and this is a great way to do all three.
GETTING THERE:
Lang Viet’s is located just nine miles north of the airport. You can book a Grab Bike from the center of Ho Chi Minh City near Ben Thanh Market, Saigon Central Post Office, Independence Palace or the Cathedral for about four dollars. It is also served by buses 13, 24, 74 and 94, which stop just outside the shop.
Ryan Yianni
Ryan is a lover of all things travel. After undertaking his first solo adventure in 2025, he has relocated to Australia from the UK. A history graduate from the University of the West of England, Ryan’s writing focuses on the historical issues faced by the places he has explored, looking at how the hardships of the past have been overcome and remembered.