Laura Grier
Bali, with its intoxicating mix of vibrant culture, lush landscapes and tranquil seas, has always held a special place in my heart as a travel photographer and adventure seeker. Each visit unveils new facets of its identity, from the richly opulent to the charmingly simple. My adventures here over the past 17 years are as varied as the island itself, capturing both the essence of luxury and the spirit of barefoot freedom.
One of my most unforgettable experiences was exploring the Sacred Monkey Forest in Ubud. This jungle sanctuary, where ancient temples lie hidden beneath a dense canopy and monkeys rule the roost, feels like stepping into another world. The air is filled with the calls of over 700 monkeys, and if you are holding a bunch of bananas, expect to be pounced on by scores of them! The forest itself winds through moss-covered statues and cool, darkened stones that speak to the soul of Bali’s mystical past. I have done many photo shoots in that forest, and one thing I learned quickly is that the monkeys love to steal anything they can get their hands on — they have a huge mountain of tourist treasures stockpiled deep in the forest. One of my funniest memories was doing a photoshoot in the forest and turning to the right and seeing a monkey holding up my reflector for me. He then tried to steal one of the lenses out of my bag, so "monkey see, monkey do" is a real thing!
Scuba diving is also a huge passion of mine and offers a different kind of thrill when visiting the island. Bali’s waters are teeming with life and history, including the submerged USS Liberty at Tulamben. Diving here is surreal; swimming alongside a historic World War II shipwreck, now home to a vibrant array of coral and fish, is an experience that stays with you. Each silent glide through the water reveals more of this underwater museum, a poignant reminder of nature’s resilience and history’s deep scars. Perhaps the most striking contrast to Bali’s bustling tourist hubs was my time on Gili Trawangan, or Gili T, a small island off the southwest coast where simplicity rules. The island’s clear, serene waters make it a diver’s paradise, offering peaceful encounters with sea turtles and colorful fish amidst the gentle currents. Here, horse-drawn carriages and bicycles replace motor vehicles, and the lack of shoes underscores the laid-back lifestyle that defines Gili T. I chose to get my advanced scuba diving certification here, and for two days, I lived in a bathing suit with no shoes. My scuba instructor didn't even own a pair of shoes and hadn't worn any in two years!
Jimbaran Bay provided a different taste of the island, quite literally. Known for its stunning sunsets and ultra-fresh seafood dinners served right on the beach, it’s a place where the simple pleasure of a freshly caught meal can be enjoyed with your toes in the sand, under a canopy of stars. The restaurants there don't even have a menu; you patiently wait for the fishermen to come back in at sunset with their catch, point to what you want, and they will prepare it and cook it for you right there. Dinner is then served by candlelight on the beach, and the spicy aromas of grilled fish mingle with the salty air, creating a romantic sensory experience that is quintessentially Balinese.
Ubud, the cultural heart of Bali, is where the island’s soul comes to life. Here, amid the lush green rice paddies, local artisans create works as rich in history as they are in color. Watching these craftsmen at work, weaving intricate patterns or carving detailed sculptures, I felt a deep connection to their traditions. Their dedication to preserving their heritage is both inspiring and a poignant reminder of the island’s struggle between growth and cultural preservation.
Bali, with its luxury resorts and rustic hideaways, proves time and again that it can charm anyone. Whether you’re sipping a cocktail in a sleek beach club or swinging in a hammock under the stars at a homely bungalow, this island has a way of finding a special place in your heart. Each visit is a reminder of the island’s incredible diversity and spirituality. You can still find places in Bali that transport you back in time, which is one of the many reasons why Bali is a recurring chapter in my travel diaries.